Scissor lift anyone?

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Like @68cuda408 , LOL, nice lift, I have a bend pak inside/outside of the garage. Works fine. EZ to use. Heavy as hell. Hard to move around. Great for brakes and other outside of the car work but not for exhaust, transmission work. I made some ramps for the car to drive up onto so the exhaust clears the lift. 2 X 10’s car length double stacked. See picture below. Left and right side car ramps stacked on each other. I used plastic wheel chocks to limit the cars position in the garage or outside

If I was going from scratch, I’d build a garage with a serious 2 post lift.

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Update....
My Craigslist hounding paid off. Found a four year old, made in the USA, Challenger MR6 mid rise lift not too far from home. Got it cheaper than the HF would have been with the 25% off coupon. I'm pretty happy, but that pretty much blows the budget for the year. Now I need to figure out the approximate center of gravity of the car and get to work. I was worn out from loading, unloading, and positioning that thing by myself and never tested getting the car in the air last night. It's a lot heavier than it looks.

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Cool, manhandling that yourself would be a bear. Hope it works good for you!
Update....
My Craigslist hounding paid off. Found a four year old, made in the USA, Challenger MR6 mid rise lift not too far from home. Got it cheaper than the HF would have been with the 25% off coupon. I'm pretty happy, but that pretty much blows the budget for the year. Now I need to figure out the approximate center of gravity of the car and get to work. I was worn out from loading, unloading, and positioning that thing by myself and never tested getting the car in the air last night. It's a lot heavier than it looks.

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I would swear that I have seen one of these used to install a drivetrain from the bottom, just like a two post lift would be used. It was a in a build thread years ago on a different forum, I think.
 
Has anyone ever used a scissor lift to remove the engine and front end from the bottom ?
 
I own the scissor lift. built my Baracuda with it. They are very good at what they do and make a lot of operations easier. Use with care and double check every operation. The limiting lift height was my car roof hitting the ceiling lights.
 
Im still thinking about getting one. The body shop has one that they rarely use. To the owner its more of a nuisance than anything else. I may see if i can use it for a few months.
 
Can you use one of those for anything besides brake work?

Everything from the bell housing forward and the rear seat to the rear is fully accessible. Probably can't drop the trans but I can set it down on wood cribs and the entire car is then accessible and a lot higher than you would get it on jack stands. I'll be able to do all the body work at a comfortable height and no laying on my back on the floor. I'd prefer a two post lift but beggars can't be choosers. A two or four post isn't going to work in my garage so this it the next best option.

You might be able to drop the engine and k-frame out but you may need the trans out first and I'd be worried about the balance without the motor in it.
 
My biggest fear with that lift is the footprint width. It's very narrow where it meets the ground. Seems like it might be easy to tip over. PErhaps if you mounted it to the ground somehow....but you could only mount one end since the end with the wheels needs to be free.
 
I've used mine on A,B,E bodies,my SRT magnum,RT magnum,300c,and Stealth,The kids cars over the years,trail blazers and durango's. I made an offset plate for my floor jack to do the transmission in the coronet , it worked well. Just make sure to keep the concrete clean where the rollers roll , if they jam up on pebbles it'll push/pull the front and damage the floor.
 
My biggest fear with that lift is the footprint width. It's very narrow where it meets the ground. Seems like it might be easy to tip over. PErhaps if you mounted it to the ground somehow....but you could only mount one end since the end with the wheels needs to be free.

With the car in the air I pushed as hard as I could and barely got it to wiggle. Pretty sure that as long as it is reasonably centered, it ain't coming off. Think about it. In this litigious country, the lawyers would be having a field day if people were getting hurt from design or implementation issues with these lifts. Having said that, you can't fix stupid..
 
I've used mine on A,B,E bodies,my SRT magnum,RT magnum,300c,and Stealth,The kids cars over the years,trail blazers and durango's. I made an offset plate for my floor jack to do the transmission in the coronet , it worked well. Just make sure to keep the concrete clean where the rollers roll , if they jam up on pebbles it'll push/pull the front and damage the floor.

Got a picture of that offset plate? I'm going to be doing a 4-speed conversion and if I can do it with the car on the lift it will keep it simple.
 
Got a picture of that offset plate? I'm going to be doing a 4-speed conversion and if I can do it with the car on the lift it will keep it simple.
I happen to be home (half day)gimme a few minutes
 
here ya' go, 1/4" plate with a peg welded through.If you look at the pics I posted #22, you can see the a body and b body access

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With the car in the air I pushed as hard as I could and barely got it to wiggle. Pretty sure that as long as it is reasonably centered, it ain't coming off. Think about it. In this litigious country, the lawyers would be having a field day if people were getting hurt from design or implementation issues with these lifts. Having said that, you can't fix stupid..

Yup, some people could break an anvil.
 
I love mine. I would love a full lift better but my ceiling height and other things come into play. Check out the bargain sheets. I found mine a MATCO for $800. A little paint and it looks like new.
 
I bought a Challenger 10K Mid rise used for $900.00 Well worth the money!! Mine came out of a Discount Tire store so I am able to mount to the floor. Lifts my 2017 Cummings without any problem.
 
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