score of a lifetime..lol

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bignasty123

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Ok I had a 750dp with 50cc pumps..and I talked to a guy on crais list that had a braswell 950hp carb long story short we traded straight up and I called braswell and they confirmed the carb flows a true 1000cfm and is a cost 2k new and it was set up for drag racing and it is really nice had then run the number back to me and it was legit...I'm so excited the car runs cold like it was idleing for 20 mins and is super crisp..here is a pic thanks for listening guys
 

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What makes a carb $2000.00 Even when new??????? Gold plated carb bowls????
 
..............Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhh...........Kay....................... but what makes you think you need, can use, or should have a 1K cfm carb on your engine? Jus' ***'in.
 
I just bought a Pro Systems Dominator 1100 CFM custom built for our Race Truck and it was only $1050.00...

Are you sure your combo will use 1000 CFM? My guess is no...
 
Hey, he scored a nice carb from a trade, show him some love! DP secondaries can be modded to not open fully, but you might want to flip it as a $2K braswell for $500. Then you can get the proper Holley Avenger HP or even the new Demon, may be closer to your needs. Good job! What makes a set cylinder heads $4000? Machine work time.....
 
damn trolls umshouldnt hate just say hey thats cool..i called to verify if itmwas real and the serial numbers on it matched with a winston cup car so thats why it was 2k and it runs great all i habe to do is jet it higher and themguymwho builds all themcarbs told me it flows 1000 cfm why would he lie imwasnt buying anything ..so if umdont habe anything nice tomsay kick ricks
 
i wont comment on whether its the right carb for the motor or not but will tell you custom built carbs are extremely expensive. Anything from Braswell, Book, Dale Cubic and a few others is big money but worth it when you're trying to go fast. Pro stock cars will drop $5-8000 for a pair of carbs that pick up .005-.010 in E.T. Dont even think about splits...thats a whole other situation.
Good score! Congrats!
 
Nice score!

...besides, the engine will only "take" as much as it needs...are you gonna have to jet it or did I miss that part?
 
...besides, the engine will only "take" as much as it needs...

Not true. If the carb is putting out more gas, the engine will run rich and you'll have incomplete combustion (i.e. gas that doesn't ignite). Subsequently the car will exhaust unused gas and probably backfire.

Sounds like it runs good though, and you're happy, so that's a good deal.
 
Not true. If the carb is putting out more gas, the engine will run rich and you'll have incomplete combustion (i.e. gas that doesn't ignite). Subsequently the car will exhaust unused gas and probably backfire.

Sounds like it runs good though, and you're happy, so that's a good deal.


they do make smaller jets.........
 
well i talkedto the tech who built it and all i have to do is bring the shooters to 29 in the front and 28 in the rear and change the jets to 84 square...but when i found out the historymof the carb i was stoked and thentech who built it said it will work perfect for my application...hensaid do 84 s and do 2 passes and go down 1 jet size until it slowsmdown he said probally 84 s will be god but unknow how cars are....and i bent 4 pushrods and brock amrocker shaft so it wont be running formamweek or so
 
damn ipad so hard to type on..broke shaft and bent pushrods...
 
In the past I often got away with running a much larger carburetor with good results than that commonly suggested. Maybe a lot of my combinations were oddball, but I do remember more than one car slowing down noticeably when I tried a smaller but "recommended" size.
Good low speed or part throttle mixture velocity has to be balanced with the maximum airflow needed to produce the best power. Car weight, engine size, stroke length, gearing, weight and size of the clutch/flywheel, surface you run on, how well you tune what you've got, and God knows what else plays a part. Sometimes what is "recommended" isn't what the car wants and does best with.
With no choke it can (and probably will) be a pain on the street, but it sounds like you're mainly drag racing, anyway.
Just do us all a favor, take the time to check your grammar, and spell check. Most importantly, capitalize when needed and USE punctuation. You'll find people are far more likely to respond and help with advise and encouragement.
 
In the past I often got away with running a much larger carburetor with good results than that commonly suggested. Maybe a lot of my combinations were oddball, but I do remember more than one car slowing down noticeably when I tried a smaller but "recommended" size.
Good low speed or part throttle mixture velocity has to be balanced with the maximum airflow needed to produce the best power. Car weight, engine size, stroke length, gearing, weight and size of the clutch/flywheel, surface you run on, how well you tune what you've got, and God knows what else plays a part. Sometimes what is "recommended" isn't what the car wants and does best with.
With no choke it can (and probably will) be a pain on the street, but it sounds like you're mainly drag racing, anyway.
Just do us all a favor, take the time to check your grammar, and spell check. Most importantly, capitalize when needed and USE punctuation. You'll find people are far more likely to respond and help with advise and encouragement.

x2 on everything - especially the "you're mainly drag racing anyway" and good score.
 
gotta stick up for him on the grammar part, it is really annoying to type in forums on ipads or cell phones or what ever.

good score.
 
Not true. If the carb is putting out more gas, the engine will run rich and you'll have incomplete combustion (i.e. gas that doesn't ignite). Subsequently the car will exhaust unused gas and probably backfire.

Sounds like it runs good though, and you're happy, so that's a good deal.

Looks like a few folks already beat me to it-this is why I asked if it needed to be rejetted...I've seen an 850DP on a 4.6 4V modular and it lives quite well. If the carb is putting out too much fuel it needs to be rejetted or have different pump cams or possibly smaller squirters or accel pump diaphragms. Otherwise, a carb is a simple air/fuel mixing device operated purely on engine demand...if it's jetted wrong, the size rating of the carb has next to nothing to do with how rich or lean it runs...
 
Looks like a few folks already beat me to it-this is why I asked if it needed to be rejetted...I've seen an 850DP on a 4.6 4V modular and it lives quite well. If the carb is putting out too much fuel it needs to be rejetted or have different pump cams or possibly smaller squirters or accel pump diaphragms. Otherwise, a carb is a simple air/fuel mixing device operated purely on engine demand...if it's jetted wrong, the size rating of the carb has next to nothing to do with how rich or lean it runs...

I was addressing the part of your comment that stated that an engine will only take as much fuel as it needs. A larger carburetor or throttle body will enable the engine to draw in more air yes, but one that is too big is almost as bad as one that is too small. On a fuel-injected car, a throttle body that is too big will put too much gas in the combustion chamber that just flows through the exhaust unburnt. It is much more of a problem on a carbureted car. There, an oversized carb will make the engine actually perform worse at part throttle. A simple formula for calculating the correct carburetor setup is:

CFM (amount of air the engine needs) = Displacement (in cubic inches) X Maximum RPM / 3,456

A lot of how the engine performs with different carb combinations depends on a lot of different factors such as dual/single plane intake, if it's a dp or vacuum secondary, engine rpm, car weight, transmission (auto/manual), even gearing can affect it, and a number of other factors.

Because of engine temperature, speed, and load, perfect carburetion is very hard to obtain. It does sound however like this carb is working great for his setup, that's awesome. Can he dial it in better, probably. It sounds like he got a great deal, but bigger is not always better and if it wasn't running well through all ranges of throttle, you are right he would probably need to re-jet the carb. I'm also sure you that you know more about carbs than I do and probably have a lot more experience. My knowledge comes from having read a lot about carbs and trying to understand better how they work so I can then apply that knowledge to my applications. Cheers.
 
sweet deal.. probably runs better cold because its nice and fat now. that like fuel when cold.


fix that return spring though before you kill yourself.



.
 
CFM (amount of air the engine needs) = Displacement (in cubic inches) X Maximum RPM / 3,456


doesn't that formula assume 100% efficiently? not even a race motor is 100% efficient. lucky if a street motor is 85% efficient .
 
doesn't that formula assume 100% efficiently? not even a race motor is 100% efficient. lucky if a street motor is 85% efficient which is why bigger carbs then what that formula gives work so well.


That formula works best when you determine what application you're going to use the vehicle for. In a drag vehicle, the RPMs at WOT should be used. In a street vehicle, normal RPM range should be used. Also with that formula, you normally round up to the next largest off the shelf size carb.

Hell, many nascars have 750 horsepower and spin between 8,000 and 9,000 RPM for 500 laps and they run a 390cfm carb.

But like I said, I don't know everything and most of what I know is from reading about how/why carbs work the way they do. You guys have a lot more experience with this than I do and if the practical application works better than the theoretical, awesome. Honestly, I'm not trying to be an a$$ or disrespectful to anyone here. Not trying to troll or jump threads, just trying to learn like everyone else. I do appreciate the lessons and it even helps me learn more. Thanks.
 
Nice score on the carb!!!

If it's running good for you that's an extra bonus. I have been told by 2 previous owners that my Demon 340 ran very good with big carbs. The brothers that built it ran it with a 1050 Dominator. Another owner ran a 950 Demon and he said it worked great with that carb. When I got the car, it came with a 750 vac. secondary carb. To me it runs good with that carb. I'd like to try a bigger carb and see for myself what difference it makes.

And I agree with Joe, double up on that return spring.



Wylde1.
 
That formula works best when you determine what application you're going to use the vehicle for. In a drag vehicle, the RPMs at WOT should be used. In a street vehicle, normal RPM range should be used. Also with that formula, you normally round up to the next largest off the shelf size carb.

Hell, many nascars have 750 horsepower and spin between 8,000 and 9,000 RPM for 500 laps and they run a 390cfm carb.

But like I said, I don't know everything and most of what I know is from reading about how/why carbs work the way they do. You guys have a lot more experience with this than I do and if the practical application works better than the theoretical, awesome. Honestly, I'm not trying to be an a$$ or disrespectful to anyone here. Not trying to troll or jump threads, just trying to learn like everyone else. I do appreciate the lessons and it even helps me learn more. Thanks.

Might want to check some of your specs quoted there...please view this webpage.

http://bleacherreport.com/articles/...76-the-new-nascar-engines-a-quick-look/page/9

Nascar engines also use 12:1 compression (increases combustion efficiency) outrageous camshafts, and produce far less torque than horsepower-that's what they're built for.

Carbs-again-are only a fuel/air mixing device at the mercy of outside barometric conditions, the parts installed in them, the engine below them, and the lead content of the foot actuating them. They operate on the Bernoulli principle where increased velocity of a gas in a tube produces a low pressure area also known as a venturi-this low pressure area is where carb makers put the boosters (and can be optimized by placing the boosters further in or out of the throat of the carb). The boosters are fed through passages and fuel is regulated by jet sizes which means if you're drawing in too much fuel-it isn't the carb's fault-it's the tuning intrinsic to the carb.

While I would agree that running a 900cfm carb on a 360ish cubic inch small block isn't the greatest idea for street use, it obviously works in the OP's experience. And I would agree that for any app, the carb should be matched to the purpose.

When you speak of bigger TBs on fuel injected engines, you're comparing mandarin and naval oranges-while the principle of allowing air into the engine through a port (throttle body or carb throttle plate) is the same, the execution of fuel management is different. Most modern EFI systems use one of two forms of fuel management: speed density, wherein the manifold absolute pressure (engine load) determines fuel demand, or mass airflow where the air drawn into the engine is measured as it flows over a heated platinum wire. Either way, if you put on a bigger throttle body, that in and of itself doesn't make the engine consume more fuel-it ALLOWS for greater air intake at a given throttle position. HOWEVER, if the engine will only draw in 548 cfm at max load, with proper tuning, it will consume no more fuel with one tb compared to another as long as they are both large enough to flow at least that amount of air. If you have one that only is capable of supporting 400cfm, and another, 750cfm-that's another story altogether.

The previous combination that resided between the fenderwells of my Mustang was a Vortech supercharged 302 with aftermarket cam, heads, etc...the 70mm TB on it was large enough to flow well over 700cfm, and it still made 22mpg on the highway with 3.73 gears on a 26.5" tall tire and pushed over 400rwhp. But, before I played with the fuel tables, the best I could get was closer to 16-because it was running too rich at a given load level. Long before I had that combo, I ran a 600 Edelbrock. I could change rods and jets (and I did on many occasions to find best power) and within a tank of gas I could tell the difference it had just by those small adjustments-and I never even changed the carb. There was a short time I ran a 750DP...but, I didn't have the right size jets, so it ran pig rich. Drop a few jet sizes primary and secondary, and voila...mileage back to where it was with a 600...as long as I wasn't being too jolly with the go pedal.

So, go ahead and tell me again about how the size of the carb [or throttle body in EFI's case] will automatically make you consume more fuel. This discussion is ages old. Combination of the rest of the vehicle powered by the engine notwithstanding, the only things that will make an engine consume more fuel is altered components, higher loads, increased throttle transients, higher rpm operation, and proper control of fuel management, i.e., tuning throughout the rpm band and load conditions.

Will a bigger carb allow for more fuel to be consumed *if* the previous one was not enough to feed the engine? Yes. Will an 850 cfm carb make an engine that only needs 600cfm consume more fuel than that same engine with only a 750cfm carb? Only if the tuning isn't properly done, and the operator has too much of a lead foot...otherwise, this discussion is purely academic...all that being said, I have to run out to the PO to send off some parts :)
 
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