Seal rust pits BEFORE primer.
- Thread starter dust
- Start date
-
340mopar
Sorgermotorsports
There are rust conversion primers out there that work quite well. I can't remember the name of the one I used on the roof of my Scamp.
Chuck
Chuck
FISHBREATH
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 21, 2008
- Messages
- 21,384
- Reaction score
- 73
Products such as Os-Pho can be used to convert light rust to an iron oxide coating. Of course, you would have removed any loose rust before brushing on the chemical. I get it at the local ACE hardware store. A gallon will last a VERY long time.
caferacerx
BAND MEMBER
Por-15
1wild&crazyguy
Banned
rust-mort from napa auto
they also have an aresol can to get the hard to reach areas=inner quarters/pillers
they also have an aresol can to get the hard to reach areas=inner quarters/pillers
Yes ospho will work BUT, make sure you neutralize it . Wash it off very very good, soap an water.
Following the quote in your sig..."KISS", why not just remove the rust?
A pot blaster is less than a $100. That way you will not have any adhesion/neutralization questions later.......especially if we are talking the exterior of the car.
A pot blaster is less than a $100. That way you will not have any adhesion/neutralization questions later.......especially if we are talking the exterior of the car.
blackbomber
Raging Member
I agree with rjsjea. I personally have used rust mort on chassis components, and on floors. But for visible painted bodywork, I won't trust anything other than shiny silver clean metal. I have the roof of my '73 Beetle as evidence. As I understand it, when sheetmetal pits, you are not seeing the full depth of the damage. The cavity is wider underneath the surface. See http://www.sandvik.com/sandvik/0140.../HandbookWeb/00CB4E68B7653027C1256761002178E3 I don't see how you can really know if a chemical is doing it's job in that instance.
Read http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=151243 I subscribe to the thoughts of post #7.
Read http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=151243 I subscribe to the thoughts of post #7.
When you say neutralize it do you mean wash the metal off after you have painted the ospho on? If so how long should you wait after the ospho has gone on.
I ask this because I am cleaning up my floor boards and have wire brushed down to bare metal on 2/3's of the entire floor. Even though I am not finished I painted the area I had done with ospho (1 layer) to prevent flash rusting until I can finish this weekend. I did this about a week ago and the area now looks strange: Some clean bare metal still looks like shiny bare metal, there are some dried up black bubbled looking areas, some white hazy looking areas, and then some areas that actually look rusted again.
I intend to go over the entire floor with a couple layers of Por-15 when I am done cleaning the rust up. Should I re-wire brush the rusted looking areas and re-ospho the rusted looking areas again before painting. I want to make sure I do it right the first time. Any input would be GREATLY appreciated.
-
