Second Hughes Converter desroyed??!

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1974scamp

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Hi all,

I really have bad luck with my 904 trans behind my 408cui stroker.
A few years ago, because of reasons I still dont know, my Highes 2500stall converter got desroyed while driving, the internals must have rubbed against each other and the whole transmission was ruined. It also destoyed my thrust bearing as somehow the converter must have put pressure on the crank.
I ended up buyning a complete new stroker kit, had the engine and trans rebuild, summit/hughes replaced the converter but obviously said the warranty of the converter wont cover the trans or engine.

Due to other reasons aswell of the car i didnt drive it that much in the last years, last summer i had the car street ready and drove it for about 3 months without issues.

This year after winter on the second time driving i noticed really bad sound coming from the transmission in 1st gear and in reverse was worst, in neutral was ok.

Pulled the trans pan and again all full with metal pieces, when i turn the converter over i hear metal pieces falling around inside.

What can the issue be for that?? My trans builder is clueless too.

I have a stock converter around which was behind my 318, i think im gonna clean the valve body, flush the trans and put it back together, as the atf is not smelling burnt this time, just worried it will destoy the stock converter too.

Thanks for your help
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Are you putting the converters on to the transmission input shaft all the way. If you had to use the bolts to pull the transmission the last 3/4” or so that’s your issue. The other issue you would see if the converter isn’t seated all the way is that you had trouble spinning the converter when trying to line up the bolts.
 
Are you putting the converters on to the transmission input shaft all the way. If you had to use the bolts to pull the transmission the last 3/4” or so that’s your issue. The other issue you would see if the converter isn’t seated all the way is that you had trouble spinning the converter when trying to line up the bolts.

When ever I installed the converter it moved freely forward and backward when the transmission was bolted to the engine.
I first put the converter in the trans as far as possible, then bolted the trans and engine together, then pulled the converter forward to the flexplate and put the converter bolts in.
 
Are you putting the converters on to the transmission input shaft all the way. If you had to use the bolts to pull the transmission the last 3/4” or so that’s your issue. The other issue you would see if the converter isn’t seated all the way is that you had trouble spinning the converter when trying to line up the bolts.
Wouldn't it snap the pump if that was the case? What kinda flex plate?
 
Bring the Hughes converter to a local converter builder in your town and have them inspect it.

Sounds like the converter ballooned.
When they do that they'll usually hit the flexplate bolts and put cracks and indentations where they make contact and then begins leaking if not exploding inside.
I wonder if the pressure is a bit too much, or too little.
What's been done to the transmission?
 
Bring the Hughes converter to a local converter builder in your town and have them inspect it.

Sounds like the converter ballooned.
When they do that they'll usually hit the flexplate bolts and put cracks and indentations where they make contact and then begins leaking if not exploding inside.
I wonder if the pressure is a bit too much, or too little.
What's been done to the transmission?
, are you using nitrous ??
 
, are you using nitrous ??
Its a street car never used nitous

flexplate is this one:
TCI Auto 145200 TCI Forged Flexplates | Summit Racing
when I change back to the stock converter I have to use the stock flexplate aswell because of the 5/16 bolts, any issues using a stock flexplate behind a 408?

Sadly I am in europe and we dont have a local converter shop in every town and when i would find one it will be cheaper to buy a new converter by the time this guy opened it

The trans is fully built by a good guy with parts from A&A transmission, dont know whats in exactly. Im in contact with him aswell but he also is clueless why these converters fail, thats why I ask here.
 
If the converter didn't have an anti balloon plate in it, there is a good chance that it ballooned internally & destroyed itself.
 
If the converter didn't have an anti balloon plate in it, there is a good chance that it ballooned internally & destroyed itself.

But whats the reason for that or how can it be prevented?

Im just worried that i put the stock converter back in and the same will happen
 
Have your next converter built with an anti balloon plate in it. My race car partner & I have been running the 904 transmissions in a Dakota with a 5.9 Magnum in stock eliminator since the late 90's. We always ran a Lupo (Dynamic) converter (4500 stall)with an anti balloon plate & had no problems.
 
Set the converters down on a flat surface with the slotted snouts down; so they stay parallel. Lay a straightedge across the pilot to see how much they're ballooned. You need three converters to do this. Ballooned converters usually have crank boilt head indents in them.
 

Like a coffee can with nuts n bolts in it ..knocked over.lol

I've ballooned a slant convertor, it's just a pos convertor. I bet a local guy could build one better and still not be as good as a high dollar..but it would hold up.

Buy a 'tight' turbo action convertor, its middle of the road and holds up. Should stall 3200 or so. Make sure to designate TIGHT when ordering.
 
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