Seeking advice on how to extract broken lug bolts

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I'm gonna check the two welding supply places near my shop. If they have those rods, great, but I really need to get this done asap. Too much work to do that's requiring the lift.

The holes are 7/16", and aiming a mig gun that far down a hole and getting it precise just ain't gonna happen for me. If I were to attempt the tig process, I'd have to extend the tungsten quite a bit, and then squeeze filler rod in there without touching the tungsten would be damn near impossible (at least for me). I'll keep you all posted on how it goes.
 
Try and keep it simple 1st. Use the correct size center punch to mark the broken bolt. If the surface of the broken bolt is too rough to center punch use the largest drill bit that will drop inside the bolt hole that is smaller than the hole thread I.D.. Use that bit to resurface the rough broken part of the stud. STOP when you have made a nice "divot" that will allow you to drill the center of the stud. This method will allow you to find the center of the broken stud without significantly damaging the outermost threads. By the looks of those holes this should not be a problem. Then use your mag drill to do what jos 7150 described. Some eazy outs are much better than others and can be used for this task. Make sure you drill all the way through the stud with you mag drill and that will increase your success rate. It will also allow you to spray penetrant thru the bolt which can penetrate back toward the broken stud head. The heat produced by drilling the stud can also help free it up and aid your removal.
 
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I wouldda snatched the hub off by now. LOL
 
RustyRatRod said:
I wouldda snatched the hub off by now. LOL
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If I had the time, maybe I wouldda too.

I was working yesterday, and my shifts are 24 hours long. So I get off work in the morning, get home and feed the dogs, sleep. Then go hunting for hardware. And of course I can't find the damned transfer punch set that I *swear* I had right here just a few weeks ago. I did find my LH drill set. Unfortunately, my mag drill won't work with this setup.

I found one of my drill bushings, but it was 3/8". stay tuned.
 
The hardest part about all of this was finding the conical washer,which my forklift guy called a "thimble." I found something online at AutoZone and they were calling it a cylinder head washer. Went to my preferred parts store, which is NOT AutoZone, and they had what I needed.

Heated each bore with MAPP gas, about 30 seconds apiece, did that twice. Quick shot of penetrant and popped a transfer punch in there. Left hand drill, and they came out like butter.

I did notice one of the bolts that I removed that hadn't broken was much shorter, and that bore appeared to have been filled with a weld. I plan to remove both hubs in the future to service the brakes, so I'll address that on the drill press.

I appreciate everyone's help with this, I look forward to trying those rods someday.
 
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Righty Tighty said:
The hardest part about all of this was finding the conical washer,which my forklift guy called a "thimble." I found something online at AutoZone and they were calling it a cylinder head washer. Went to my preferred parts store, which is NOT AutoZone, and they had what I needed.

Heated each bore with MAPP gas, about 30 seconds apiece, did that twice. Quick shot of penetrant and popped a transfer punch in there. Left hand drill, and they came out like butter.

I did notice one of the bolts that I removed that hadn't broken was much shorter, and that bore appeared to have been filled with a weld. I plan to remove both hubs in the future to service the brakes, so I'll address that on the drill press.

I appreciate everyone's help with this, I look forward to trying those rods someday.
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good job righty tighty...and you didn't have to remove the hub when you didn't need to.
 
jeff alder said:
good job righty tighty...and you didn't have to remove the hub when you didn't need to.
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Thanks! I wasn't opposed to removing the hub at all, but I'm very tight on time and needed to get the lift back in service as soon as I could. I'll take it off when I have some more time, because I really need to look at the brakes.
 
If you are going to drill use a carbide burr to grind a center divot so you can drill down the middle.
 
Hell yeah! Nice work! What the CRAP did you need us for? lol
 
mbaird said:
Ive done this to extract a broken shift lever screw on my KTM . I had a pilot hub machined to keep it centered .

That bolt is identical to the hub caps on my 1993 Mazda b2600i 4x4. Which leads me to believe it is a widely used fastener for hubs .
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My Dodge B300 Dana 60 safety (floating) axle has those cone inserts on the axle to hub connection. I believe they were used 78' and down. An after thought: The reason I always use anti-Siege on my water pumps, wheel lug studs, mag wheel backing to rotors and drums and other problem areas that may siege while removing in the future. Another note: After taking off the hub and drilling for removal, I would add some heat to the hub for expansion, no heat to the bolt. Looking at the broken bolt and cone (heavy rust), it is going to be a bear to remove the broken stud, without drilling it all out and retaping. I do like the idea of drilling out a pilot bolt to center your drilling. An idea I will keep in my toolbox.
 
Get yourself some Artec Alloys Unichrome 3/32. Reach in and build up the broken bolt with the unichrome ( It will build a nice ball as you come up to the top of the hole) Build it up high enough so you can weld a flat washer on the bolt. Then weld a bolt onto the washer and let cool, Don't get in a hurry, Wiggle bolt back and forth and it should spin out. The heat from welding will expand the bolt so you need it to cool on its own, If you can hold your hand on it, you can try it. You need a steady hand when you are welding on the bolt,but just touch it and burn a litle at a time and it will build you a nice ball to attach the washer to. I've found that Unichrome is the best for removing broken bolts,studs,exhaust studs or bolts. It seems to flex some what so it doesn't snap off.
 
If those backed out with the LH drill bits, I'd suggest review of the torque spec. Seems like they might've been overtightened at some point in the past. Glad you got em out!
 
jos51700 said:
Seems like they might've been overtightened at some point in the past
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That's saying a mouth full right there.

I guarantee most lug studs have been over torqued in their life and I bet 50% of all A body 7/16 lug studs are currently over torqued.
 
Dana67Dart said:
That's saying a mouth full right there.

I guarantee most lug studs have been over torqued in their life and I bet 50% of all A body 7/16 lug studs are currently over torqued.
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Almost every bolt on today cars has a torque spec. Some even have a "one time" use, as in head bolts and lug nuts. I just did a spindle change on a VW and all the attaching bolts have a torque spec.
 
Dana67Dart said:
That's saying a mouth full right there.

I guarantee most lug studs have been over torqued in their life and I bet 50% of all A body 7/16 lug studs are currently over torqued.
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Yeah that's some of my trademark sarcasm right there.
 
jos51700 said:
If those backed out with the LH drill bits, I'd suggest review of the torque spec. Seems like they might've been overtightened at some point in the past. Glad you got em out!
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Thank you. I do have a service manual, so I'll reference it and double check.

I think I get what you're saying -- I was slightly surprised at how easily they backed out, even with the heat and penetrant.
 
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