Set new engine up help?

-
G

GoldDuster340

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2005
Messages
60
Reaction score
0
Location
Niagara Region
Ok just got my 72 340 back from the shop all freshend up i have installed it back in the car. Primed the motor and I have a oil pressure so all good.
I do know that with distributer in it should point at cylinder one when installed. Its tough to turn motor over and hold my finger over cylinder 1 LOL!

Question?
I need to set the motor to #1 tdc and put the timming gear in, so how do i set this in properly so that im not 180 out or anything.?
what position will the rockers be in?

This may be simple for some but im not a mechanic just a hobbiest haha!

thanks for any help
 
i.am close to the same point. all the books shows the dist. drive needs to go in a certain way. i can take a pic of the shop book i have. if you are looking at the front of enginelooks like 10.00 oclock the slots at. i will be on later to night.
 
Been a while since I have done it, but I believe that #1 push rods, should be "loose", that means valves are closed, and are on compression or exhaust. With finger over spark plug hole, you will feel the pressure if its compression.
 
When you bring the timing mark on the harmonic balancer around to the zero mark on the timing cover both pushrods should be loose if there not you are 180 degree out, turn the engine over one more time to line up the marks and you should be on TDC. When you drop your dist. drive gear in, the slot should line up directly with the front left intake manifold bolt.
 
After flattening a cam years ago, I now use this very simple method.

With the timing cover off, after the cam has been installed and marks lined up, you are at #6 firing.

That is when I throw the distributor/oil pump drive in, and of course I always scribe a mark on it for later installation of the distributor.

Hopefully that makes some sense, but it takes a lot of the turning the motor over stuff out of it.
 
Thanks for the sudgetions i will try tonight turning it to zero to and see if both push rods are loose and that tdc is at cyl#1 and drop the gear in directed towards cyl #1

wish me luck LOL
 
well a couple of turns and she fired right up didn't run long sounded good and i tried it again and my battery started to die so i put in on the charger try tomorrow........
 
well it runs and timing is OK but having damn carburetor problem I bought a holley 600 mechanical double pumper I'm having nothing but problems with it from running to rich and leaking gas ready to through it in the garbage. LOL but unfortunately i bought it new and that would be a waste of money.
I need a good bolt on no fuss street carburetor for a 340 4spd mostly stock with headers and aluminum intake any suggestions or on you put on with no probs?
thanks for any help
 
Rebuild it, with blue re-usable gaskets; Check float level. Check your vacuum, compared to power valve.
 
get it running ,get out a vacume gague see what readings you have in gear and at idel.I like to see what reading I have in gear with foot on the brake.Lets say you have 9 inches than a 6.5 power valve is good to go.As a rule always drop down 2 points from what your reading is.Be sure to set timing up first and mixture screws.Me i love holleys easy to tune.So lets say your reading is 7.5 with a 6.5 witch is almost always in a holley than that power valve is now open causing an over rich mixture at idel.
 
Great idea SNake hit the right on the money, Best way to do it is to use a vacum gauge. and adjust your idle and mixture screws .. you want a steady vacum most stock engines are about 15 inchs... Adjust your screws closed ...open one and half turns and continue to open untill you reach max vacum on the gauge.. your vacum will increase then when decrease... when this happens begain to close you mixture screws ,,, you want max vacum at idle and drop off to zero inches at wide open throttle... vacum gauge tells you tons of stuff when using it... low vacum may indicate a vacum leak... low compression... a irratic vacum needle indicates valve issues... Great way of check that the engine was assembled good and machined good... Good luck..
 
Thanks very much guys but unfortunately i don't have a vacume guage. I found out where the gas was leaking from turns out the gasket on the rear float bowl or cover was not set in properly this was a brand new carb from Holley really a bummer I think I got the lemon made on Friday! Can you buy just the bowl gaskets or have to buy a whole kit?
I wish I new someone in the area real good with Holley's i could sure use the help rookie mopar guy :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top