sfi flex plate loose, help

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wade

wade

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so i bolted my new flex plate to the motor using ARP bolts, for 318-360. i torqued to 75 lbs like arp said, but the flex plate is still loose, if i use a shorter bolt, like a converter bolt the problem is gone, should i just shorten the arp bolts and red locktite them? ARP wont warrnety anything if i use washers
 
sure you got flexplate bolts and not flywheel bolts....as they may be longer.....

the flywheel bolts are 1 inch long...
 
i think thats the problem, arp pn 240-2801 flywheel bolt kit, so can i shorten them or should i buy new ones?
 
Doubt that will work. These ARP bolts have an unthreaded shank on them that looks to be taller than the flexplate is thick. You can shorten them all day long and they will never clamp down on the flexplate.
 
Just use grade 8 bolts with red lock-tite. May have to grind the heads a tad if they hit anything on the round trip. ARP: Are Rather Pricey
 
In these situations I always ask myself. Do I want to do it right! Or do I want to do it twice.
 
So what would be wrong with hardened washers? There's lots of room in there, and the washers will pull the bolts back a tad, away from catching on the rear walls of the engine.And it neatly solves the problem at the root next to the heads.
I'm not sure though if I'd want to reuse those bolts tho, as ,if they have been jammed into the crank on the shanks, theres a good chance they or the threads in the crank may have been damaged.
 
The ARP bolts should be 1/2" long. I just did this with my 318 and ordered everything from John Cope (CRT). The flexplate to crank bolts from ARP were marked on the package for application so I would double check you got the right bolts. I did have to grind the TC bolts because 1/2" was too long to seat.
 
i used grade 8 bolts with washers and red lock tite, i thought i bought fly wheel bolts from john when he built my trans but i can only find the converter bolts, any ways thanks for the replys the trans is in the car now and bolted up
 
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