Shaft mount roller rocker setup question

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Swingin73Dart

Swingin73Dart

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So I’m installing the valve train on my new 360 and my dart had came with 2 sets of rocker arms I could use. Trying to use the aluminum roller setup and the arms appear to be self aligning with the tabs on either side of the roller tip and spacers to keep the arms from contacting the shaft hold downs.

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So my only question is, does there need to be a spring/spacer in between the arms or do they not need one because they “should” align themselves on the valve stems?

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If there is something needed in between these arms I can’t use this setup because I don’t have it. These arms came in a coffee can in the back seat of my dart when I bought it. I do however have a set of new in box crane ductile iron arms with all the hardware.
 
You need the little golden wedding rings.....as spacers.

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Swingin73Dart said:
So I’m installing the valve train on my new 360 and my dart had came with 2 sets of rocker arms I could use. Trying to use the aluminum roller setup and the arms appear to be self aligning with the tabs on either side of the roller tip and spacers to keep the arms from contacting the shaft hold downs.

View attachment 1715476497 View attachment 1715476498

So my only question is, does there need to be a spring/spacer in between the arms or do they not need one because they “should” align themselves on the valve stems?

View attachment 1715476501

If there is something needed in between these arms I can’t use this setup because I don’t have it. These arms came in a coffee can in the back seat of my dart when I bought it. I do however have a set of new in box crane ductile iron arms with all the hardware.
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Usually spacers or springs. You know a machinist? They can knock a set out quick.

Jake
 
B's took springs...dont know why they wouldn't work but spacers fit the bill.
 
You don't want to use springs. Solid spacers and shims to set it up right. set the side clearance to .015
The self aligning washers outside the wheel gives no margin for error.
 
fishmens67 said:
You don't want to use springs. Solid spacers and shims to set it up right. set the side clearance to .015
The self aligning washers outside the wheel gives no margin for error.
Click to expand...

Guess I’ll be using my crane setup then. That has everything with it and doesn’t appear to need shims/spacers.
 
springs are going to force the rockers out, I dont think the pushrods would try and move them in? Dont have an open motor to see pushrod angle.
 
pishta said:
springs are going to force the rockers out, I dont think the pushrods would try and move them in? Dont have an open motor to see pushrod angle.
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the pushrods are pretty much in line with the arms. I’ve dealt with self aligning arms before but that was on a ford. I never messed with a shaft mount setup like this before.
 
No way in heck would I ever use rockers with those stupid self aligning wings. No way, no how. All it takes is one tap on the spring retainer to unlock a valve.
 
Swingin73Dart said:
Guess I’ll be using my crane setup then. That has everything with it and doesn’t appear to need shims/spacers.
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You're probably better off.
I just see that above setup as a failure waiting to happen.
 
RustyRatRod said:
No way in heck would I ever use rockers with those stupid self aligning wings. No way, no how. All it takes is one tap on the spring retainer to unlock a valve.
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If those hit the spring retainer, you got other problems....Like a seriously work valve tip? Been used for years but I never seen it on a common 'floating' shaft mount, usually its on a captive pedestal mount.
 
pishta said:
If those hit the spring retainer, you got other problems....Like a seriously work valve tip? Been used for years but I never seen it on a common 'floating' shaft mount, usually its on a captive pedestal mount.
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I get it, but there's no need for them on a Mopar. None. They are actually slap incorrect for the application. They are more made for a stud or bolt type mount like you mention.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I get it, but there's no need for them on a Mopar. None. They are actually slap incorrect for the application. They are more made for a stud or bolt type mount like you mention.
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that’s where I’ve seen them before on small block fords. They used those in place of a more traditional guide plate setup.
 
Swingin73Dart said:
that’s where I’ve seen them before on small block fords. They used those in place of a more traditional guide plate setup.
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That's right. A lot of the small block rockers had them made on as an integral part of the rocker.
 
Well thanks for your help everyone, I’m gonna run my crane setup. I just figured both were free and if I could make these work they might make me a tiny bit happier with less weight in the valvetrain. I know these rockers will make zero difference in power but I believe there is no such thing as a free lunch and I like to use the best I can on all my junk!
 
fishmens67 said:
You don't want to use springs. Solid spacers and shims to set it up right. set the side clearance to .015
The self aligning washers outside the wheel gives no margin for error.
Click to expand...
Why are these setup different than the ductile iron set? I would have thought springs would do the same thing?

Jake
 
I'm thinking what if, so just a thought;
>What if the pushrod escapes custody and the rocker arm starts flopping around?
>If you float the valves; what happens in the time between the onset of float and the lifter pump up.?

I got the Blue ones (1.6) like in Pishta's pic, post #2.
They got over 100,000 miles on them now; I'm very happy with them.
I initially set mine up @.010 clearance per pair. But at the first inspection, I found that to be too tight. With Hughes 1129 springs, I also found the rockers too tight on the shafts or not enough oil. I fixed it.
 
xLURKxDOGx said:
Why are these setup different than the ductile iron set? I would have thought springs would do the same thing?

Jake
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The ductile iron ones have a wider “footprint” on the valve stem end of the rocker tip so I’m guessing they have more room for error so to speak and are more geared towards a heavy duty stock replacement type application. This not at all a race motor, just a truck 360 with a bit more cam, intake and headers. In all likelihood a 5000 rpm motor so they will work just fine for me.
 
xLURKxDOGx said:
Why are these setup different than the ductile iron set? I would have thought springs would do the same thing?

Jake
Click to expand...

Springs are for light duty applications like stock. As lifts and spring pressures increase, you want the best control possible and that means solid spacers.
 
Hi,
If you are going to street drive the car, conventional wisdom says do not run aluminum rockers. Go with the Stainless or Ductile Iron roller rockers. My .02 centavos.

Marion
 
Watch how the valve stem wobbles around with the onset of float at about 1:00 in this video....


Those 1st ones look like some older PRW's or other overseas types. If they have the narrow width needle bearing cages on each side, the stock shaft will not survive long; they are not nearly hard enough.
 
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