Shaft vs Pushrod Oiling

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Most of the oiling mods done to put more oil on the springs are probably for circle track racing where you run high rpms for extended periods of time.
I went down this rabbit hole worried that about not enough oil flowing out but have reconsidered.
 
Most of the oiling mods done to put more oil on the springs are probably for circle track racing where you run high rpms for extended periods of time.
I went down this rabbit hole worried that about not enough oil flowing out but have reconsidered.
Or drag n drive where you’re driving hundreds of miles on springs with 500lbs over the nose.
 
You think it's possible you may not need the shaft oiling?
Originally I read your question as “pushrod” oiling not “shaft” oiling. Sorry my answer is different. I absolutely cannot run these rockers with ONLY pushrod oiling as they are not drilled to oil the shaft, and neither is the adjuster, from just the pushrod. Both have to be done to oil the shafts through the pushrod. If I was to eliminate one method due to it being overkill it would definitely be the pushrod oiling.
 
Originally I read your question as “pushrod” oiling not “shaft” oiling. Sorry my answer is different. I absolutely cannot run these rockers with ONLY pushrod oiling as they are not drilled to oil the shaft, and neither is the adjuster, from just the pushrod. Both have to be done to oil the shafts through the pushrod. If I was to eliminate one method due to it being overkill it would definitely be the pushrod oiling.
What about HS rockers for W2s ? Are they drilled for shaft oiling ? I assumed they were…. Been so long I can’t remember.
 
What about HS rockers for W2s ? Are they drilled for shaft oiling ? I assumed they were…. Been so long I can’t remember.
Never used them, I’m not sure. There are a few I know of but not for W2. Only LA. PRW, comp pro mag and I’m sure there are others.
 
I believe that both systems will work adequately for higher performance use if they are working properly. Race applications can always benefit from improvement. I also think that spring oiling plays a huge part in cooling. for a Street motor I will lean in that direction as long as the drain back is good and the pan capacity is efficient.
 
HS W2 rockers are drilled for shaft oiling. I am sure if one called HS and requested a set with pushrod oiling they can drill them and provide the adjusters needed for pushrod oiling.

HS offers rockers for the TrickFlow small block head for pushrod oiling so they know how to do it.
 
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If I want full time oiling to the rockers I do something similar to what’s done above.

But, the Chrysler oiling is dead reliable IF you do it right. I mean to 9k with 900ish over the nose spring loads.

I don’t do pushrod oiling on ANY conventional OE or race block with Chrysler oiling.


Any leak at the lifter takes oil right off the rods and mains. If the rockers need more oil make it full time.

In fact, if you look around Pittsburgh racer has pictures of how he was doing it. I do something close to what he was doing.
I'm no expert on the oiling system beyond stock, but I would think in a system as this, you will need a deep pan and HV oil pump, so not to starve the bearings.
 
I'm no expert on the oiling system beyond stock, but I would think in a system as this, you will need a deep pan and HV oil pump, so not to starve the bearings.


I always run a deep pan and HV pump.

But, total oil flow through the engine is far far less than what a 5 quart pan will hold.

There are 16 less leaks at the lifters because the block is tubed and the oil to the drivers side lifters is blocked off.

My rod clearance is .0020-.0022 and the mains are .0022-.0024 so oil leakage there is reduced.

I will install restricters so even though the rockers get full time oil it won’t have a 1/4 inch hose size leak.

I also run the rocker to shaft clearance fairly tight. I don’t recall what it is right now, but it’s less oil leakage than what a stock rocker and shaft has.

The total oil flow through this engine is equal to or probably less than an OEM 340 and is damn sure less than an engine with bearing clearance to run a 20w50 grade oil.

I’ll be running a 0w20 grade oil.

So I can run 5 quarts of oil in my 8 quart pan and never suck it dry.

As an FYI, the majority of times when the claim a pan was sucked dry is made, it’s when using a factory pan and pickup and the guy putting the engine together didn’t have the pickup touching the pan.

Edit: I forgot to mention that the bearings won’t get starved because all the oil feeding the rockers comes BEFORE the oil heads to the passenger side oil gallery. That’s why I pick it up at the pressure gauge oil gallery. I could have tapped into the main oil gallery but it would be no different than just feeding the rockers like Chrysler did.
 
This engine has a HV pump with a high pressure spring, a stock pan that I welded baffles and trap doors in, a big pick up, a few of the oiling mods to enlarge passages and clean up casting flash, and an oil filter plate that I drilled double the holes in. The mains are all .0028-.0029 and the rods are all .0023-.0024. And I run Napa (valvoline) 10w40 dinosaur juice. Has 60-70 psi cold idle, 50-55 hot idle. And 90 as soon as I bump the throttle.
 
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