Shaving Drip Rails - need pics and info

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Riddler

Riddler

Project EH-Body
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I'd like to remove my drip rails on my Duster as I think it'll give a sleeker look to the flow of the car. I' kinda have an idea how to do it as I spoke with rj when he did his.

But what I'm looking for is info when it comes to the stainless steel trim piece and the rubber seal.

If you've done this and I'd really like to see more pictures, progress pics, final pics and also an explaination of how you finished it off.

Thanks,

Riddler
 
Popular with street roders for their 30s and 40s cars.

I think the unibody of our cars uses the drip rail gutter to attach the roof skin to the frame. You might be compromising the structural integrity of the car (and you'd get wetter).
 
I am in the process of taking the sealer off my fish at the drip rail and it definately looks like that is where the roof skin is attached. You take those off and the trim will have no place to attach. I wouldn't do it.
 
I've already made the decision to remove then. I'm going to weld then together and smooth them out.

I just want to see what others have done with the seal.

Riddler
 
I've been looking at different mouldings for my windows as we speak. I have a buddy that does tops chops all the time he ordered a few samples for me to check with. Vent windows and quarter windows would be the real pita. I saw a bit on hot rod tv a few years ago about this stuff they sell with clips built into it to hold it in place but I have never found the actual stuff they showed.
 
I'm contenplating doing the same thing to my 61 Cadillac 2 dr HT. What I've come up with is to remove like 1 foot sections of the drip rail at a time, weld them up, then proceed to the next section to keep everything from tweeking. The rubbers should not be affected, at least with my car. Of course remove before starting and replace with new after. It is a nice sleek look. Good luck
 
Just remember the when you cut the drip rail off you have at least (2) but I think maybe (3) pcs of skin to weld back together....Cut a little, weld a little...

If you check out Power Block TV the just did this to a car this past weekend on it. I think it was a Nova but the technique would be the same.
 
Yeah I've made up my mind, this will be getting done. I plan to do what most are doing. I'm going to cut the stainless strim long wise and see how the seal holts in the stainless. I might be able to come up with someone, if not I'll go to a hotrod shop and see what they have.

Riddler
 
demon34071 said:
Just remember the when you cut the drip rail off you have at least (2) but I think maybe (3) pcs of skin to weld back together....Cut a little, weld a little...

If you check out Power Block TV the just did this to a car this past weekend on it. I think it was a Nova but the technique would be the same.
Click to expand...

I caught part of that episode of Musclecar, I think it was an Olds Cutlass that they were doing. A lot of tac welding to be done, but I like the look and might try it on one of my cars.
 
here is what the inner structure looks like

DSC01024.jpg


DSC01022.jpg


here is the metal finished product

93737084.jpg


I did it 4" at a time took 2 days of grinding and welding

it also burns through really easily so go slow with low heat and small tack just enough to penetrate
 
I've been thinking of doing it on a 57 chevy truck I picked up. Seems pretty straightforward as long as you don't get in a rush. Just cut little sections at a time and tack it up slownkly. Im thinking of not shaving my smooth, but leaving a little "bump out" for lack of a better term. It'd still kick the water out a little but wouldn't stand out like a factory rail. A lot of hot rods do it this way.
 
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