Shocks and double sway?

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johnnyusa

johnnyusa

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When I got my 65 Valiant Signet convertible in 1991, I began the wonderful journey of updating and rebuilding any and everything that would make this car great. I have succeded and it is truly performing now lovely.

My questions are these: In 1993 I put in KYB shocks and have driven the car EASILY over 100,000 miles. Would it be silly to update these and would it make a noticeable difference in driving? Note that I don't push the Signet very hard and only drive it for seven summer months.

My second question is about a rear sway bar. In 1998 I had a front sway bar installed and it makes such a difference. Does the additional rear take it to a level of extraordinary or is a front enough?

I love to improve my car when I can.
 
Good for you driving that much! I wish I could drive mine more. If the shocks are weak yea time for new ones. I added the rear sway bar to my Scamp and I could tell the difference right away. So my vote is Yes to the sway bar. Shocks if needed. Have fun :)
 
Murray said:
Depending on existing torsion bars, you might consider upgrading one step.
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IDK I did that and I still think my car rides harsh. It does handle better but on a rough road I'm not a happy camper. For a driver I would stay with what he has already.
 
I like 1”+ T bars for a driver feels like a much more modern car once you go through the rest of the suspension

My 66 has either 1.03” or 1.08” I don’t remember what they were when I did them. But also full poly bushings and LCA stiffing plates
 
Adding the rear bar really depends on what kind of driving you do, weight bias, etc. It can turn a balanced car into a fishtailing bastard, if you're not careful. People more knowledgeable than me will be along shortly who can tell you more than I can.

I think @Mattax might have some good input. I can't recall some of the other suspension guys on here.
 
Front and rear Helwigs on both my cars . Makes a huge difference!
I run KYBs on a 93 Mazda B2600 I restored . Meh…. Not real good at wheel control. Not enough rebound .
 
I'm thinking Bilsteins if I renew the shocks. And the Helwig rear would be my go to. I agree with the possibility that I could create a fishtailing monster if too stiff but that's why I put this out there to hear from you folk.
 
My cars are both super stable . No fishtailing .
They also launch super straight!
Bilstiens would be the way to go but spendy .
 
Can you fit tires on that Signet to take advantage of these upgrades? Jus asking.

my 68 Barracuda 100% Street driver, has 295/50-15 BFG T/As on the back, on 10" wheels, @24 psi. Shocks are HD Munroe 3-ways set on #2, lol, and no rear sway bar. All 4 shocks are from the 70s and are on the third car. My guess is that they have over a quarter million miles on them.
On the street, she slides flat, and I steer the back around, with the throttle. Bin like that since 1999. I quite enjoy it.
Yeah she does, have a big S-bar on the front, and 1.03 T-bars. IIRC the rear bias is ~48%, or thereabouts. I could easily make it 50% by moving 100pounds off the front to the rear. But I'm happy as it is.

As to your question,
You said
johnnyusa said:
it is truly performing now lovely.
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Therefore I say; leave it alone. That's my opinion.
 
johnnyusa said:
I'm thinking Bilsteins if I renew the shocks. And the Helwig rear would be my go to. I agree with the possibility that I could create a fishtailing monster if too stiff but that's why I put this out there to hear from you folk.
Click to expand...

I would be careful about putting bigger torsion bars on a convertible. They tend to be rattle boxes cause they have no roof structure.

The Bilstein's my actually take some harshness out of the car.

How thick is you current front sway bar?
 
It is not only the thickness of the sway bar. Depending on the design & how it is mounted affects the leverage it exerts on the chassis.
I would check this out carefully before buying....
A sway bar also increases the spring rate [ ride is more harsh ] when only one wheel on that axle hits a bump....
 
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