Shop Tools

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65Vart

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[FONT=bookman old style, new york, times, serif][FONT=bookman old style, new york, times, serif][FONT=times new roman, new york, times, serif]DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat
metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and
flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted vertical
stabilizer which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could
get to it.

WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under
the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and
hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say,
"Oh sh!#..."

SKILL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.

PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of
blood-blisters.

BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor
touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.

HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board
principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable
motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more
dismal your future becomes.

VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt
heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer
intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

WELDING GLOVES: Heavy duty leather gloves used to prolong the conduction
of intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable
objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside
the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race.

TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood
projectiles for testing wall integrity.

E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any known
drill bit that snaps neatly off in bolt holes thereby ending any
possible future use.

BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to
cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into
the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the
outside edge.

TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of
everything you forgot to disconnect.

CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 24-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A very large pry bar that
inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end
opposite the handle.

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids
or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on
your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out
Phillips screw heads.

STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to
convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws.

PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or
bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.

HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short.

HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is
used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts
adjacent the object we are trying to hit.

DAMMIT TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage
while yelling 'DAMMIT!' at the top of your lungs. It is also, most
often, the next tool that you will need.




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LOL I'll add one
Air compressor; Very handy for over inflaiting tires, pool floats etc.. but,
It most important function is the audible "Clueless At Work" noise that warns others to keep a safe distance i.e. out of hearing range.
 
I can't tell you how many times I picked up a "too hot" part after welding with welding gloves and got halfway across the shop only to yell "Sh!!!TTT" and drop the part and jump around while trying to get the dam glove off. :)
 
According to my daughters infinite technical knowledge, there's only two types of screwdrivers: "+" and "-".
Think about it.
You try and try to teach them..............
 
Aviation snips: see Hacksaw

Floor jack: tool designed to become firmly trapped under the car upon finishing any major suspension or drivetrain work by having its handle trapped firmly between the vehicle's floor pan and the ground.

Douglas Fir 2x4: used to lever a vehicle upward to aid in removal of a Floor Jack from beneath it.

Tweezers: used for removing splinters, see 'Douglas Fir 2x4', above.

Timing Light: a stroboscopic device designed to illuminate grease buildup.

1/2 x 16 Inch Screwdriver: a large motor mount prying tool that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end without the handle.

Trouble Light: the mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin", which is not otherwise found in garages at night. Health benefits aside, its main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate that 105-mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading.

Gasket Scraper: theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for spreading mayonnaise; used mainly for getting dog ---- off your boot.
 
creeper~ used to pinch fingers, arms and pull tuffs of hair from your head. OR as my father calls it...Piece of $H*&, Fn, bleepin' Mother blank, god D@mn creeper.

I haven't heard my dad curse like that since he beat on me in High school.
 
creeper~ used to pinch fingers, arms and pull tuffs of hair from your head. OR as my father calls it...Piece of $H*&, Fn, bleepin' Mother blank, god D@mn creeper.

I haven't heard my dad curse like that since he beat on me in High school.

Creeper wheels grab my shirt sleeves more than anything else. I replaced my creeper with a piece of plastic wall from above ground pool. Me and the parts slide around as if on ice. :)
 
[FONT=bookman old style, new york, times, serif][FONT=bookman old style, new york, times, serif][FONT=times new roman, new york, times, serif]
E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any known
drill bit that snaps neatly off in bolt holes thereby ending any
possible future use.




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Don't get me started! I have to pull off my intake manifold in order to get the broken extractor out that is drilled into one of the thermostat housing bolts. :angry7:
 
Don't get me started! I have to pull off my intake manifold in order to get the broken extractor out that is drilled into one of the thermostat housing bolts. :angry7:

If you use a torch to heat the broken extracter cherry red, It will loose its hardness and become drillable. Process called aneal. Just an option.
 
The sad thing is that EVERY d@mn thing on this list has happened to me at one time or another over the last 30 years or so.....lol
 
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