shortening an 8.75 housing

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Ben Drinkin

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Anybody have a jig for welding ends back ona shortened 8.75 housing? Or is it cheaper to just find a a-body housing?
 
Got a welder? The jigs are around 100 bucks, then you need the bar.

Oh, and the ends.
 
I have a B body housing I Would LOVE shortened but I cant weld how much would you pay someone to do a job like that?
 
I made my own pucks on the lathe to fit the ends.
Grabbed a 1 inch bar
cut the one side of the housing, squared it off. beveled the edges of housing and end piece.
put carrier into housing with pucks where bearings would be.
put pucks into both ends of housing and slid 1 inch bar through the housing
put the housing into a u channel and clamped it down to table.
measured the ends to be sure i had the right length.
got some 7018 rod and welded it together.

then did the other end.


I do have one c body housing sitting around that i was planning to do this to when i have some free time.
 
I have a B body housing I Would LOVE shortened but I cant weld how much would you pay someone to do a job like that?

There's a plethora of welders around here (mostly oilfield guys looking for work!). 60 bucks will get it done here easy.
 
Got a welder? The jigs are around 100 bucks, then you need the bar.

Oh, and the ends.

Yikes! I can get the welding for free.. but damn.. still sounds like I'm a couple hundred into it. Got a free housing today with a 489 case (c-body or truck i think, about 64 inches drum to drum). Trying to find my options here. Thanks to all for replies.. lots to look in to..
 
There's a plethora of welders around here (mostly oilfield guys looking for work!). 60 bucks will get it done here easy.
60 bucks?! Dam I need to move down there lol What is the stock Length for a A-Bodie 8 3/4 52 Inches? something like that? Flange to flange.
 
Well if you end up with an A body rear for a couple hundred, you did good, and you still have the pucks and bar for the future.. Then if you go through it and do a gear change, suregrip all new bearings and seals. :evil3:


I have one I need to shorten, that's what I'm doing.
 
Depending on what year B-body housing it is (70 or earlier) and if you have a Duster/Demon/Dart Sport, you'd be better using it As-Is but with the spring pads relocated than shortening it.
 
Depending on what year B-body housing it is (70 or earlier) and if you have a Duster/Demon/Dart Sport, you'd be better using it As-Is but with the spring pads relocated than shortening it.

If only it were a "b" housing. It's like 2 miles long! About 64 inches drum to drum.
 
Well if you end up with an A body rear for a couple hundred, you did good, and you still have the pucks and bar for the future.. Then if you go through it and do a gear change, suregrip all new bearings and seals. :evil3:


I have one I need to shorten, that's what I'm doing.

And i end up with cool tools! May be the way i go.
 
60 bucks?! Dam I need to move down there lol What is the stock Length for a A-Bodie 8 3/4 52 Inches? something like that? Flange to flange.

When the price of oil goes down, the oilfield out here does wholesale layoffs. Lots of guys with skills and experience are out of work. Get some quality work done cheap, and they're grateful for the work.
 
Man i wish i knew some good welders i would gladly pay them for thier time. My 8 3/4 is out of a 71 B bodie and its about 5 inches to long lol i am going to get some snall bolt axels so i want it cut to stock length.
 
Man i wish i knew some good welders i would gladly pay them for thier time. My 8 3/4 is out of a 71 B bodie and its about 5 inches to long lol i am going to get some snall bolt axels so i want it cut to stock length.

Once i figure out what I'm doing, I'll let you know. May see if any 'slow work' machinists want a low buck project. Seems a longhydraulic cylinder rod is just the ticket. The search begins!
 
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