Should I get my car running driving as is OR

resto or not to resto

  • get it running?

    Votes: 49 84.5%

  • tear it apart and restore it..

    Votes: 7 12.1%

  • step away from the Mopar..

    Votes: 2 3.4%
  • Total voters
    58
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zac_F71

zac_F71

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Tear it the rest of the way down, do bodywork/paint it, and start from scratch?

I am debating this right now.. I really want to drive it but I could also get it running/driving and enjoy it for a summer or 2 and then tear it back apart for body/paint
 
drive it. you'll lose inspiration. dont take it apart now. restoring a basket case is much harder than a driving car. do it in sections and drive it as ya fix stuff.
 
for the love of god drive it! i tore mine down in 2003. was just going to do an engine swap and take the glass out and fix the rotted window frames. 11 yrs later i finally got to drive it again. it still is a long way from street legal or done but it moves under its own power.
 
Drive it and make a list of things you want to do at the same time. Make a list of the things that you like and the things that bug you and then after a year or two go from there. Hopefully you can plan a budget at the same time so you can get it done all at once so you don't lose interest.
 
the more you drive it as-is the more you will know the car so that when you take it apart your more familiar with what you have to work with and how you want to improve or set it up
 
I say drive, and agree with the list making. Then work on things in priority order. I'd love an engine swap and headers and exhaust, but all that works, so suspension has become prority for me.
 
All depends on how much BUCK$ you got.I drove my 65 "B" for a few years with a stick and 451.Had a blast. Tore it down for a redo.6 years later and she will see the street again this summer.Almost done.Empty Pockets,BUT worth every penny !
 

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I'm looking at $7,500 to get it running/driving like I'd want (body untouched minus SFC's)- $3,500 bare minimum

the stock 400 BB will not be enough for me coming from a 350hp lightened fox Mustang SO that needs a top end, needs full 3" exhaust, needs the 8 3/4 I have setup and put together, need to have the 727 I have rebuilt, needs new head liner, new windshield (will be under $200 installed as I work at a dealership), need SFC's, IF the rear wheels don't fit need new one's, and there is much more I'm leaving out...

1 thing I'm not sure of IS if the 10" front disc brakes I built for it will handle a 400hp big block..

As for budget - don't have one as in spend $700 at a time every couple months.. plus I sell stuff on eBay and IF I sell my Mustang motor the big block top end kit will be bought
 
Sounds to me that you have a lot more project than I pictured when you asked about getting it running drivinng. If you are going as far as you plan I would just go ahead with the tear it apart plan but be careful that you actually plan it out and not just an image in your head you are chasing. Make detailed lists. It helps. I am doing this right now on my next project but it is still months away.
 
Well bare minimum is

clean/regasket/inspect/paint the 400-better intake/carb/wires/plugs/fuel pump
Rebuild the 727- buy input yoke, and floor shifter, IF I used the stock cam in the 400 I could use the converter that is in the trans I have (stock)- probably pull the pan/VB and inspect it, maybe it don't need rebuilt..
Have the 8 3/4 setup- bolt in ready
FULL exhaust minus mufflers (have 3" Dynomax's from my stang)
Have driveshaft cut/ rebalanced
New headliner/ repaint dash/ have windshield put in
Fiberglass hood w/ 6 pack scoop (or rock no hood but I'm not a big fan of that look)
All new stock style fuel system- 3/8" feed line
install SFC's and drive shaft loop (already have the loop left over the stang)
 
I always got them running and driving and basically "done" before paint, so I wouldn't have to risk tearing up the paint to fix or mod anything later! To me, that would undo the paint I just paid for!
 
Nothing kills motivation like staring at a pile of parts. Keep it drivable as much as possible.

One trick I learned - buy spare parts for your car, rebuild them, swap em on the running car when it's convenient.
 
younggun2.0 said:
for the love of god drive it! i tore mine down in 2003. was just going to do an engine swap and take the glass out and fix the rotted window frames. 11 yrs later i finally got to drive it again. it still is a long way from street legal or done but it moves under its own power.
Click to expand...

X 2......take it from someone who knows. Just thinking how many cruise nights I missed is depressing. Talkin' years.....!
 
Drive.Enjoy.Love it ,now.When you go to restore it,the memories will add motivation.
 
Either drive and fix or do like I did buy a junker swap out 318 and drop a 410 4speed in it while you get the other one nice and pretty
 
Tough call. Is the body in driveable shape? I've got nearly 500hours and $5k into my "driver" valiant (and that's mostly body, brakes, and suspension) in the last 2 years and I've only racked up 50 miles. But after seeing just how bad things where, my mind is at ease knowing that it is mechanically sound now.
 
younggun2.0 said:
for the love of god drive it! i tore mine down in 2003. was just going to do an engine swap and take the glass out and fix the rotted window frames. 11 yrs later i finally got to drive it again. it still is a long way from street legal or done but it moves under its own power.
Click to expand...

Less about your car, I want to know more about time travel!
 
I would drive it and save up for upgrades as time and finances allow.
When you have the parts in hand, then do the work to it and continue that way until the car is done.
The first things on your list should be brakes, steering, suspension, fuel system, and tires.
Does the car have any structural issues? Electrical?
There's no use even driving it unless all of these are up to snuff.
My opinion FWIW.
How about some pics of this bad boy?
 
Sully1190 said:
Less about your car, I want to know more about time travel!
Click to expand...

HAHAHA!! But seriously you should make it run and drive it while getting parts for it. The more parts you have the the more prepped you are for it the less down time the car will have. You can have the turnaround be about 3-6 months rather then 3-6 years.
 
451Cuda said:
Nothing kills motivation like staring at a pile of parts.
Click to expand...

+ 1 on that!

I'll tell you the situation that I ran into. Fuel pump or something was bad in mine when I got it. I probably could have replaced the mech pump at the time and drove it. I decided to do a whole new fuel system with electric pump etc. Once I started getting things apart, I found rust everywhere. After cutting out all the old rust, I decided that I'd mini tub it since I needed the extra traction. Then that turned into doing a 4 link, all new wheels, tires, etc. Then a roll cage. Got it all back together enough to drove it about 20 miles. Had detonation issues and motor started smoking a little. Worried I had hurt the motor, pulled it, found all kinds of rust up front in the frame and crossmember that I've now fixed. I'm talking the kind of issues that would make the car unsafe to drive. Wiring is crap so I'll rewire the car now too. All new front end will be going in. I've been at this for about a year and a half now with thousands of dollars spent that I had no intention of originally throwing at it and don't know when I'll get this thing back to where I will really start enjoying it. I've had maybe about 50 miles of actual driving with the car. It was 50 miles of pure enjoyment, but it wasn't enough I can tell you that. In my personal situation, it was better that I tore it apart before I went down the track and got myself killed from something failing in the front end. If you don't have any structure problems like I had, I'd do like others have said. Drive it and make a list of things you'll want along the way. Save up, tear it down later knowing what you are going to do and have a plan. Not having a plan and getting sucker punched in the face with surprises and having to keep emptying your wallet SUCKS during the build. Take it from someone who is going through that very situation!
 
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