Should I go Big block or Small block?

What motor should I build for my duster?

  • 318

    Votes: 37 6.3%

  • 340

    Votes: 183 31.2%

  • 360

    Votes: 228 38.9%

  • 440

    Votes: 138 23.5%
  • Total voters
    586
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go for a 360, if you don't use it for strip use all the way out!
 
Thanks for all the help & comments so far! :cheers:

Right now I'm leaning towards building a non-stroker 340 with edelbrock aluminum heads and air-gap intake. Anyone have a similar build or know how much power I could get from an engine like this? I'm figuring where this is going to be mostly a street car I'd like it to handle somewhat well. Adding the aluminum heads and intake should drop my front end weight by 50+ lbs correct? Then I can do some suspension upgrades like some stiffer torsion bars and some big brakes.
 
Good choice, I am partial to the internally balanced motors, 318 or 340. If you want to change a flywheel or vibration dampner you are not messing up your balanced assembly. It drives easy at low r.p.m and you can nail it and still get power up into 6500 pretty easily.
 
Are there stroker kits out there for 340's that don't require modifications to the block?
 
1973DartSport said:
Are there stroker kits out there for 340's that don't require modifications to the block?
Click to expand...

use I beam rods.

the only reason you have to modify the block [keep in mind 340 and 360 have to be clearance'd at the bottom of the bores for h beam rods] is when using H beam rods.

318 with the small bore need a lil more removed.
 
63dartman said:
I would go with the 440. The weight issue is cold be less with aluminum heads and intake. .

331/354 Hemi with alum. intake and water pump -504
392 Hemi with alum. intake and water pump ------ 564
Slant 6 ---------------------------------------------525
273-340 ------------------------------------------- 525
360------------------------------------------------- 550
361-400 ------------------------------------------- 620
413-440 ------------------------------------------- 670
426 Street Hemi -----------------------------------765
Click to expand...

then put aluminum heads on a 410 sb stoker and see how light it becomes while making the same power.:read2:
 
Everything I am going to say is from someone who is trying to do their engine swap absolutely as cheaply as possible and over a period of time. I am also trying to get the most horsepower and torque as cheaply as possible.The other assumption is that when comparing both engines they both have iron heads and aluminum intakes. If $$$ is not an issue then read no further. I had a 440 duster and the exhaust situation (beside factory manifolds) was expensive and frigful. Shumaker headers fit well but are not designed for a radical 440, they are more suited for a mild torquey engine with great mid range hp and tq. Other header options are either fenderwell(hooker) or in chassis and big $$$. You can get a set of headers for a 360 for $125. In retrospect a stroked 400 would have been ideal as there is more clearance on the lower deck engine. If you want to keep your handling characteristics without having to spend on suspension upgrades go 360 as the added weight of the 440 changes the handling characteristics unless you get larger diameter torsion bars. If you are only interested in straight line performance then it's not an issue. You also have a weight and horsepower gain as the 904 has less weight and recriprocating mass you can also get by with a smaller diameter driveshaft. I know that upgrading the brakes is necessary even with a small block but you could "get by" with drums with a small block until you can afford to upgrade. SS springs or equivelant should be used if you get a 440, with a 360 you can clamp the springs until you can afford better springs. You are looking at larger more expensive tires to hold the 440, and in a dart unless you are running DOT slicks you will probably have to move the springs and/or cut some of the metal to gain enough unless you spend money on wheels with correct backspacing. Engine mounts from /6 to 440 are generally more expensive than /6 to 360. Trans-Dapt has a /6 to 360 for about $60. Shoemaker /6 to
440 are about $160. Unless you are lucky, the K frame. has to be ground for a shoemaker /6 to 440 kit With a 440 it is probably wise to have a torque strap(more$$).
Between the weight of the engine, drive shaft, transmission, and other smaller things you could be looking at 200 lbs difference between the 360 and 440 set up. 200 lbs difference equals about two tenths in the quarter. Don't forget about the great equalizer
NITROUS, for about $350 you can get an adjustable 100-150 kit, which will be good for a least a second.. Gotta go to work out of time but theres more!!!
 
340 or 360. I'd go with the stroker though but that would make a great clone with a 340 or disguise the 360 as one. Nice car btw, I saw one just like it yesterday except it had a sharks tooth and all black hood with scoops.
 
I have a completely rebuilt 440 that is very streetable I am looking to sell. Everything in it is new (e.g. Pistons, Cam, Lifters, Push Rods, Bolts, Rockers & Shafts, Valves & Springs, Oil Pump, Bearing, Distributor, Timing Chain) or reconditioned (e.g. Rods, Crank, Heads, Etc.). The heads have been port matched to the intake. I am looking to get $4,600 for it.
 
No need to stroke the 360 unless you want,a nicely built 360 will get the job done too, my stock stroke has gone 11.79 hoping for a little more this season..
 
dustoff440 said:
Everything I am going to say is from someone who is trying to do their engine swap absolutely as cheaply as possible and over a period of time. I am also trying to get the most horsepower and torque as cheaply as possible.The other assumption is that when comparing both engines they both have iron heads and aluminum intakes. If $$$ is not an issue then read no further. I had a 440 duster and the exhaust situation (beside factory manifolds) was expensive and frigful. Shumaker headers fit well but are not designed for a radical 440, they are more suited for a mild torquey engine with great mid range hp and tq. Other header options are either fenderwell(hooker) or in chassis and big $$$. You can get a set of headers for a 360 for $125. In retrospect a stroked 400 would have been ideal as there is more clearance on the lower deck engine. If you want to keep your handling characteristics without having to spend on suspension upgrades go 360 as the added weight of the 440 changes the handling characteristics unless you get larger diameter torsion bars. If you are only interested in straight line performance then it's not an issue. You also have a weight and horsepower gain as the 904 has less weight and recriprocating mass you can also get by with a smaller diameter driveshaft. I know that upgrading the brakes is necessary even with a small block but you could "get by" with drums with a small block until you can afford to upgrade. SS springs or equivelant should be used if you get a 440, with a 360 you can clamp the springs until you can afford better springs. You are looking at larger more expensive tires to hold the 440, and in a dart unless you are running DOT slicks you will probably have to move the springs and/or cut some of the metal to gain enough unless you spend money on wheels with correct backspacing. Engine mounts from /6 to 440 are generally more expensive than /6 to 360. Trans-Dapt has a /6 to 360 for about $60. Shoemaker /6 to
440 are about $160. Unless you are lucky, the K frame. has to be ground for a shoemaker /6 to 440 kit With a 440 it is probably wise to have a torque strap(more$$).
Between the weight of the engine, drive shaft, transmission, and other smaller things you could be looking at 200 lbs difference between the 360 and 440 set up. 200 lbs difference equals about two tenths in the quarter. Don't forget about the great equalizer
NITROUS, for about $350 you can get an adjustable 100-150 kit, which will be good for a least a second.. Gotta go to work out of time but theres more!!!
Click to expand...

Nitrous..isn't that the stuff in the blue bottle..bottles are for babies..lol...
 
440.

I retrofitted a 383 into my '68 Dart GT (originally a 273) in 2005. I got a great deal on the 383 otherwise I'd have gone for a 440.

Car is a daily driver.

Schumacher Engine swap kit, .920 Torsion bars, ADDCO front Sway Bar, 73 Duster Disk brakes, runs awesome all day long in SoCal traffic..

Going with a Big Block was the best decision for me.

Go to BigBlockDart.com to talk to people who have done these swaps. Lots of good info there. It helped me a LOT...


..
 
1973DartSport said:
Are there stroker kits out there for 340's that don't require modifications to the block?
Click to expand...


Yes, a virtual bolt-in set up from Scat or you can use the Mopar 4" crank. 450hp is a very streetable possibility. Some good adjustable roller rockers (Crane Gold Race or Hughes) and a solid cam designed for your components (Clay Smith Cams) and that thing will just scream!

Mild touch-up of the stock heads is all the head required for this level. Better heads and more (solid roller!)cam and 600+ streetable hp is easy! At this level you will wanna run the forged crank!8)

http://www.speedomotive.com/s-13-small-block-mopar.aspx
 
I drove a 273 with 11 to 1 pistons, 340 crank and solid lifters and LOVED it! Still have it tucked away, but now that I have had a 340 with the X heads for the last two years, I can honestly say if you have one go for it! Yes a 360 is good and cheaper to build, but the 340 has been a blast!
 
I would say big block but it's going to cost you.So depending on your budget.Now smallblock piece of cake,less money less headache.
 
my vote was for a 360 just because they are easy to find an cheap. Save that money for the engine build. Also easier to work in the engine bay of an A-body. Just my 2 cents. Matt
 
If you aren't willing to cut your inner fenders for big headers, a big block will probably be choked so that a small block could give about the same HP, plus you will be able to negotiate corners.
 
I voted for a 360 and would I would say to build a stroker. It seems those who
have really like the way they perform and the torque and street manners are a plus. I can't believe I just said that. I am a huge 273 fan. lol toolman
 
I agree that 440 weight is exagerated. If memory serves me correctly your talking about a 100 lb diff. Put the battery in the trunk, add aluminum intake and headers and that would just about offset I think. That's what I am doing with my 69 cuda fb. I voted for the 340, but all "I" have is BB's. My 318 Duster is a different story.
 
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