Show me the restrictor

[66Dvert]

Ok I've been looking around the brake treads and searched for a picture of the residual valve (not restrictor oops sorry) that's supposed to go/be in the master cylinder when you have disc/drum brakes. located a couple of threads about it but no pic's, I'll be ordering a new(not remanufactured) so that I can verify that I get the right master cylinder for my conversion on my darts. 1st car is 9" drums and the second is 10" drums. both going to disc/drum combo

I just did a friends conversion using the scarebird adapters and he already had a disc brake style master and proportioning valve from a donor car so it wasn't an issue on his car ,it does stop 100% better than his old drums and single pot master (straight too!). it really motivated me to do the darts after I got into the v8 dart and hit the brakes compared to his car.
BUT I have nada,nuttin, zip for mine at the moment and want to make sure that I get the correct parts.
1: Do I need the residual valve in the master cylinder if I use a standard /disc/drum poportioning valve from a 85 dippy?
2: Will I need it if I go to an adjustable proportioning valve?
I know it's supposed to put in a little pressure on the rear wheel cylinders to keep them under slight pressure. I'm going new lines,wheel cylinders ,rubber lines, ect. due to the fact I can get it in stages and keep working on getting the car back on it's wheels
So who's got a picture of this elusive residual valve in the master cylinder and do I need it if I'm using new style rear wheel cylinders?
oops both are 66 darts so can I just order ummm 74/74 disc/drum lines and adjust as I go for final fit?

 

[67Dart273]

1. I always thought that ALL drum systems used a residual valve. I have read that some don't

2 The valve MAY be right in the line fitting on the side of the master

3 "Old school" masters had the valve as a separate piece in the bottom. It looked sort of like a "salt shaker lid" a little domed piece with holes in it and a little diaphragm

4 On some '60's Mopars the residual valve was a SEPARATE cylindrical valve.

The valves in fittings of a tandem master:

Buried in the photo below is the separate residual in-line valve:

From the '66 shop manual:

Old school "salt shaker valve"

 

[pauly v.100]

Why use a factory proportioning valve at all?
If your going to spring for all new parts, just get a disc/drum master and use a T fitting for the fronts straight from the master, then plumb the rears with an adjustable proportioning valve inline. I've got mine mounted just under the left rocker with the adjustment knob coming through the floor so I can adjust it on the fly from the driver's seat. It makes a real clean and functional setup.
I've also got an inline residual valve for the rears only because my master is a disc/disc model and I have drums out back.
Ehrenberg also sells rear wheel cylinders with internal residual valves.

 

[OUTLAW]

I believe all modern disk/ drum setups use the valve as shown in the last pic- where it is part of the plunger assembly. I did the scarebird conversion about 4-5 years ago and just bought me a rebuilt master cylinder for a disc/drum car and never changed my proportioning valve or anything else and my car stops great and straight. Non-power setup and pedal feel is excellent . So I would say just get a master for disc/drum brakes for your year car and go

 

[66Dvert]

again thanks you guy's really came through. I just didn't want to get the wrong stuff. I will be ordering a new dual port master cylinder that's drum /disc and the adjustable prop valve. now I've been looking at lines for the dart and suspect that I can order 73 and up dart hard lines to fit? since it's going to be a 73 master cylinder I'm ordering
rubber lines have to be adapted since I'm using scarebirds setup on one car and have the 73-up uca and spindles for the other

thanks for the info