Show photos of your broken/busted connecting rods!

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dibbons said:
I thought automatics had a valve or something so that reverse could not be engaged from drive position. Guess not?
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No, not Chrysler products but I know Ford did. Neutral drop a C4 or a C6 an it might be the last time for it lol. I found out that Ford had the valve when I got my sister's 65 Mudstain stuck. A little too much throttle and you lost the rocking motion to get out of the stuck spot when the trans wouldn't engage and it didn't take much for that to happen. I remember when my dad was looking at cars in the mid 50's and the salesman showed him how tough the transmissions were (really?) by hitting the R button while doing 40 mph and then pressing D and just kept on going. Back then IIRC, they had rear pumps and you could push start an automatic. The salesman only left the R button pushed in briefly but the car nosed over and then pressed D again. Dad bought a demo 56 Belvedere (how many times did that demo take place lol) and we kept it until 63 which was pretty good for living in the rust belt.
 
was a new mega block.

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I have a question about tightening the ARP rod bolts I just bought. They have some different looking nuts (12 point?). Do regular sockets fit over those or is it necessary to purchase some kind of special socket? Thank you.
 
doogievlg said:
Were you trying to blow it up?
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No, not really....
It was more like a test and tune experiment. I run a B&M 174 blower with a 6 rib serpentine drive. I worked my way up on the nitrous shots from 75HP to 150HP to 200HP. As you guessed the car went faster and faster. The 200 shot actually stalled the blower rotors, resulting in zero boost but still netted a better ET. However the head gasket wasn't happy with the added cylinder pressures.
I did call Holleys tech line to inquire about how much nitrous can be sprayed thru the blower without stalling the rotors. The tech guy was in shock that I whacked it with a 200HP shot. He actually put me on speaker phone and the whole tech dept thought I was crazy. They couldn't answer my question and when I asked if upgrading to a 10 rib drive would solve this situation, I was met with brief silence and then they asked if I had been under the influence of alcohol......
 
MiradaMegaCab said:
No, not really....
It was more like a test and tune experiment. I run a B&M 174 blower with a 6 rib serpentine drive. I worked my way up on the nitrous shots from 75HP to 150HP to 200HP. As you guessed the car went faster and faster. The 200 shot actually stalled the blower rotors, resulting in zero boost but still netted a better ET. However the head gasket wasn't happy with the added cylinder pressures.
I did call Holleys tech line to inquire about how much nitrous can be sprayed thru the blower without stalling the rotors. The tech guy was in shock that I whacked it with a 200HP shot. He actually put me on speaker phone and the whole tech dept thought I was crazy. They couldn't answer my question and when I asked if upgrading to a 10 rib drive would solve this situation, I was met with brief silence and then they asked if I had been under the influence of alcohol......
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Sounds about right.
 
fishmens67 said:
Magnafluxed rods is not a guarantee, just makes you feel better until the rod or crank lets go.
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Yeah but i get what he's saying. I have 340 rods that have been winding to 7 ,or around ,for 14 yrs or so years. Luck of the draw and wether or not you get a good machinist, a lot of people can just hone a rod,, just like elmer fud could shoot a rabbit.
 
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Beam polished 340 floaters. Roughly 15 years of 7500 shift and trap rpm. No black death, didn't break the crank or block. No oiling issues, the big end was still "loose" on the crank. The beam just wanted to go bye bye.
 
beam polishing is wrong. a light sanding and shotpeening is what should be done. and magnafluxing is not a guarantee , it is done so we do not start with a cracked part. and many times a rod fails second, something else goes bad first
 
Some years back I was polishing a set of 383 rods. Found an internal fracture even after they passed magnaflux test.
 
Man that sucks. Been watchin your builds since BBD days. How do you go about diagnosing a parts failure like that?
 
Beams were polished to
Marcohotrod said:
beam polishing is wrong. a light sanding and shotpeening is what should be done. and magnafluxing is not a guarantee , it is done so we do not start with a cracked part. and many times a rod fails second, something else goes bad first
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Beam polishing is done to eliminate stress risers in the rod. Before we had all of these aftermarket rods to choose from it was standard operating procedure. We even "boxed" the beams by welding sheet metal on the beams in an effort to strengthen the rod.
 
the rod broke in half. the crank needed welded and turned .010" under, needed 2 new pistons, rings, bearings, cam reground, a valve or 2, new rods of course and a new block. I got a KB stage 10, it's a solid aluminum one.
 
Here is min from 2.5 years ago, Scat I-beam in my 410 stroker, let go at the finish line after 7+ years of abuse....I mean, racing. The big end is still on the crank.
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if you buy rods for racing or hi rpm longevity-go made in usa-oliver, crower, manley, callies etc. My Chrysler rods are made in usa, as well as light J E pistons
 
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