Very nice.....and cost effective. Best idea I have seen since the pop pivot gun.
Show That Lowered A-body!
- Thread starter lildemonkid
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Very nice.....and cost effective. Best idea I have seen since the pop pivot gun.
76orangewagon
Well-Known Member
So what do you do with the door jambs, trunk and under hood area's ? I assume it must match
Idaho
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Sounds like he did it for not much more than the cost of the vinyl. Google searching comes up with 3G and up. Might be a feasible DIY though. YouTube...
Still need perfect primer and all the work preceding plus color where Denny mentioned.
There's a very nice Dart wrapped in grey on here... somewhere.
Still need perfect primer and all the work preceding plus color where Denny mentioned.
There's a very nice Dart wrapped in grey on here... somewhere.
champyfz450
Well-Known Member
Hey who did the vinyl wrap? I'm a few hours north of you but would gladly make the trip to have mine done for that price. Your car looks beautiful, sir. Congratulations on a job well done!
mickey_bigdaddy
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Ok, this is very interesting. Please tell us more about this vinyl wrapping. More pics please. It looks better than any vinyl I've seen up close.
Idaho
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I know this is supposed to be about stance, but could you tell us about the paint? Is it flat? Car looks awesome.
roccodart440
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Looking good. Keep it up
roccodart440
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Sublime69......just sumblime
SRT_DSTRHOLC
Well-Known Member
Any people here running tti headers? Having issues running 1/2 in above round bump stops and tti headers hanging too low still
junior636
Well-Known Member
That's why i cut out all my torsion bar stuff and made my own headers, seems to be the nature of the mopars the headers always hang too low.
pauly v.100
Well-Known Member
I'm using the short bump stops w/ TTi headers but cut the collector flanges off and welded in ball and socket style collector flange. Every little bit helps.
Doug's headers provide almost another 1/2" of ground clearance vs the TTI long tube headers from what I understand. On my Duster the Doug's are sitting a little less than 4" off the ground. That's with 25.6" tall tires and the wheel openings just under 25" off the ground.
TTI shorty's would be the next step, that would get you the same clearance as a set of manifolds.
This is the passenger side on my car, the passenger header hangs down a little lower than the driver's side. You can see that the flanges are pretty darn close to the floor pan, you really can't tuck them up a whole lot more than this if the flanges are anywhere near the same spot. The frame is only 6" off the ground there, which is at the back of the torque box. The skid plate on the K member was only 5.5" off the ground here. I've lowered the car another 1/4" or so since I took these, so figure 3.75" to the header flange, 5.75" to the frame, and 5.25" to the skid plate on the K. I still haven't dragged the header flanges on anything. I'm still running the stock LCA's with a 3/8" tall poly bumpstop, and have about 1" from the bumpstop to the frame.
Car as it sits now. I'm running out of clearance on the fender lip when turning, but the plan is to roll the fenders and drop it another 1/4" or so in the front and maybe another 1/2" in the back. Based on my experience with my Challenger that will put it to where I need to be pretty careful with the local speedbumps to keep from dragging the the passenger side header flange, the magic number for most of the places I drive around here is pretty close to 3.5" of ground clearance at the flanges.
TTI shorty's would be the next step, that would get you the same clearance as a set of manifolds.
This is the passenger side on my car, the passenger header hangs down a little lower than the driver's side. You can see that the flanges are pretty darn close to the floor pan, you really can't tuck them up a whole lot more than this if the flanges are anywhere near the same spot. The frame is only 6" off the ground there, which is at the back of the torque box. The skid plate on the K member was only 5.5" off the ground here. I've lowered the car another 1/4" or so since I took these, so figure 3.75" to the header flange, 5.75" to the frame, and 5.25" to the skid plate on the K. I still haven't dragged the header flanges on anything. I'm still running the stock LCA's with a 3/8" tall poly bumpstop, and have about 1" from the bumpstop to the frame.
Car as it sits now. I'm running out of clearance on the fender lip when turning, but the plan is to roll the fenders and drop it another 1/4" or so in the front and maybe another 1/2" in the back. Based on my experience with my Challenger that will put it to where I need to be pretty careful with the local speedbumps to keep from dragging the the passenger side header flange, the magic number for most of the places I drive around here is pretty close to 3.5" of ground clearance at the flanges.
SRT_DSTRHOLC
Well-Known Member
Like I said I have the small round bump stops, about 1/2 in off them and this is how low I am. I will be changing K members soon so if there's any kind of aftermath that was done to it, this should help me fix it. If not I'll have to raise the car, but there has to be something else, I know there are cars running the same way I am with tti and don't have this issue
SRT_DSTRHOLC
Well-Known Member
That last photo was upside down for some reason haha and apparently this one is too -_-.. Front wheel opening is 22.60 from ground lol whoops 205/60/15 tire soon to be 275/18. The rear is 25 off the ground haha. I believe the 205 front is only a 24in tire so taller tire will raise me at least another inch. My passenger collector is only 1.5 inch off the ground whoops
It is flat. Flat lacquer. Sprayed by yours truly! Duplicolor quart cans. LOTS of coats, will look awesome with flat black top and stripe!
Thanks for the compliment. :burnout:MT
67autocross
A new iron curtain drawn across the 49th parallel
My car that has TTI's are 3.5" on the passenger side to the bottom of the flange.
Tires are 25.6" tall, front fender is 24" of the ground and rear is 23".
I could knock a 1/4" off the bottom of the flange for more clearance, I would say this is about as low as you would want the headers for street driving. I would also say that lowering the car any more than this with a stock suspension system is not going to gave you any worthwhile gains in handling.
SRT_DSTRHOLC
Well-Known Member
Wasn't about handling, wanted the look at the time
Yeah I'm with 67autocross on this one. Once you get the header flanges much lower than about 3.5" off the deck they start to drag on everything if you're driving it on the street. And much lower than that will actually hurt handling, because you don't have enough suspension travel anymore. Even with the 1.12" bars on my car I need the 1" of travel I have to the low profile bumpstops. I don't bottom out very often but it does happen occasionally. Bottoming out frequently equals crap handling, not to mention a lot of wear and tear on the suspension.
Can't get around the math. If the header flanges are only 1.5" off the ground at ride height, when you bottom the suspension out the exhaust is pretty much on the ground. A 1/2" of travel at the bumpstop is more than that at the wheel. I'm surprised you can drive the car like that at all. Around here the potholes are more than an inch and a half deep. High centered on a speed bump. I like low but it has to be functional.
Can't get around the math. If the header flanges are only 1.5" off the ground at ride height, when you bottom the suspension out the exhaust is pretty much on the ground. A 1/2" of travel at the bumpstop is more than that at the wheel. I'm surprised you can drive the car like that at all. Around here the potholes are more than an inch and a half deep. High centered on a speed bump. I like low but it has to be functional.
SRT_DSTRHOLC
Well-Known Member
The car was raised in the rear with as springs so I think having the stink bug look actually allowed the headers to angle up more into the air but now because the car is basically level, they came back down. It's not a big issue to fix, just need to raise car which will happen with taller tires and coil over suspension
Just some ideas to kick around.
1) swap out the three bolt collector for a ball / socket connection.
2) get the slammer model K frame...which raises the motor (exhaust) and related suspension.
It's all about the stance for some of us.
1) swap out the three bolt collector for a ball / socket connection.
2) get the slammer model K frame...which raises the motor (exhaust) and related suspension.
It's all about the stance for some of us.
SRT_DSTRHOLC
Well-Known Member
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