I have a brand new six pack on my 340 and have begun some tweeking...I blew the power valve and have replaced it with a new one...when the power valve was blown it idled like crap and had an off idle hesitation..Now it idles nicely but seems to surge a little during part throttle cruise...Would I benefit from raising the power valve from a 6.5 to an 8.5???? Would this earlier opening cure my surging....? I also need to remove the lead plugs to set the rear carbs...I am a little nervous about messing with brand new stuff, but from everything i have read the six pack runs generally lean...What is the best procedure to remove these plugs without causing any damage? Basically if i can cure this slight surging this thing runs awesome...when I am into it there is nothing like that seat of the pants accelleration when the outboards come in..am i moving in the right direction here?? any info welcomed....thanx...
six pack expert wanted..???
- Thread starter dust-u
- Start date
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Can't help w/ the lead caps.
The surge sounds like a lean condition. Being that it's at low speed, it'll involve the idle circuit. You're on the right track. Getting all 6 idle screws adjusted is the thing to do before you look anywhere else.
The surge sounds like a lean condition. Being that it's at low speed, it'll involve the idle circuit. You're on the right track. Getting all 6 idle screws adjusted is the thing to do before you look anywhere else.
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I added a Power Valve Saver to my center carb. They are easy to find on e-Bay (or Jegs, Summit,etc...) and require you drill a small hole and add a spring w/block off plate. It cost under $10 and saves you the aggravation of replacing those PV's when they rip. You have to remove that center carb thought...
As for the lead plugs, just GENTLY pop them out with a sharp pick tool. If they're in there, drill a small hole in the center and insert a screw to grip it with a small vise grip. Once the plugs are out you can adjust the idle screws...sort of. That back carb is a bastard because you have to remove the carbs to get to it! The center carbs has to come off to adjust it. Start with 1/8 a turn out. The best bet is to use the ProMax base plate that has the idle screws angled out towards the sides so they can be adjusted on-car. I also routed out the edge of the fuel bowl so I could get in there better.
I installed this on my rear carb. The front is easy enough to get at once the plugs are out.
I also used the "Performance Curve" metering plate in the center carb...
and added the jet-able metering plates to both end carbs.
I don't have the jet numbers in front of me, but it *THINK* I had put in 56's in the center and 86's in the ends, but I'm probably wrong. All I know is that my car goes pretty Damn good..... I had used the suggestion PorMax gave me when I met them at Carlisle (ask Ben...) and the car runs great!
While it's not cheap, it's well made and best of all, it WORKS!
http://promaxcarbs.bizland.com/id1.html
Here's some (dated..) info too to get a better understanding:
http://www.mopar1.us/6barreltips.html
All I know is I stumbled across my 6 Bbl. set up cheap and never had any intentions of going that route. But man-o-man.... I'm soooo happy I bolted them on. NOTHING feels like that kick in your *** when those end carbs open up.....
As for the lead plugs, just GENTLY pop them out with a sharp pick tool. If they're in there, drill a small hole in the center and insert a screw to grip it with a small vise grip. Once the plugs are out you can adjust the idle screws...sort of. That back carb is a bastard because you have to remove the carbs to get to it! The center carbs has to come off to adjust it. Start with 1/8 a turn out. The best bet is to use the ProMax base plate that has the idle screws angled out towards the sides so they can be adjusted on-car. I also routed out the edge of the fuel bowl so I could get in there better.
I installed this on my rear carb. The front is easy enough to get at once the plugs are out.
I also used the "Performance Curve" metering plate in the center carb...
and added the jet-able metering plates to both end carbs.
I don't have the jet numbers in front of me, but it *THINK* I had put in 56's in the center and 86's in the ends, but I'm probably wrong. All I know is that my car goes pretty Damn good..... I had used the suggestion PorMax gave me when I met them at Carlisle (ask Ben...) and the car runs great!
While it's not cheap, it's well made and best of all, it WORKS!
http://promaxcarbs.bizland.com/id1.html
Here's some (dated..) info too to get a better understanding:
http://www.mopar1.us/6barreltips.html
All I know is I stumbled across my 6 Bbl. set up cheap and never had any intentions of going that route. But man-o-man.... I'm soooo happy I bolted them on. NOTHING feels like that kick in your *** when those end carbs open up.....
My buddy (now deceased) used to adjust the middle and rear carbs somehow. Maybe a flexible-spring-like screw driver? I can't remember. Anyone?
packin3deuces
Well-Known Member
Do yourself a favor and go the Promax route. Give Ben a call and he'll set you up with what you need. Otherwise you'll be pulling your hair out in the very near future! :salut:
Woodys_Cuda
Ontario, Canada
Agree with the Promax baseplate, the rear carb will be a b*tch. I purchased one for my setup, best money I ever spent. I'm not a techie, but you can try to crack front and back carb open one turn on the linkage to get rid of the stumble (worked for me with high lift cam). I haven't messed with jetting, or PV at this time because it looks like PO set it up already.
Be careful with those tiny idle mixture screws they are easily broken .
Be careful with those tiny idle mixture screws they are easily broken .
...well...ummm...cash is tight...I will have to go old school and adjust the front carb...and then move it to the rear....I really dont think ...as this set-up is new..this procedure will cause any problems....Anyway...its some good therapy...time is what i have....money is what I do not have...:cheers:
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