skip white distributor any info?

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xLURKxDOGx said:
I think someone posted on this or a similar one and the consensus was "You get what you pay for". And its made in China?????
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skip said guaranteed for life on the one I bought. it`s for a r/b tho, which I didn`t use because of going to f.i.
 
I have one of his distributors on my 360, but it is not the same as your asking about


all I can say about it is that it works well BUT when we were getting ready to fire the engine up for the first time we spun the distributor shaft to check for spark and there was hardly any

when I crank the engine it works just fine though
 
well ill do a little looking it kinda looked like MSD Pertronix were other options but quite a bit more $...ive just got the older mag pick up distributor with the vacuum blocked right now
 
Muscley MOPAR said:
well ill do a little looking it kinda looked like MSD Pertronix were other options but quite a bit more $...ive just got the older mag pick up distributor with the vacuum blocked right now
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That's your best bet. I took my factory vacuum dizzy and locked out the vacuum advance. I don't like to bash american companies like Skip, but the census has spoken. Most say they are junk because of being Chinese, but I haven't actually heard of one person having a problem. Skip does warranty them if there is a failure, but who wants to keep changing out a dizzy on a small block because of inferior manufacturing.

Kinda ironic that the Skip White dizzy looks exactly the same as the Procomp unit....
 
what are you running for a engine Scamper mines 11 compression 360 e85 engine cam specs are 570 lift on both and 275 duration at .50 so little to no vacuum...did you just get a different spring to adjust ur timing advance
 
I have found out that when it comes to mopar, you get what you pay for.
 
I have one of their HEI units in my F250 with a 351M engine. Although it has the vacuum advance, like you did not ask about, it has run flawlessly. I like it.
 
one of the reasons im looking to replace my distributor is that when i start it and the rev it into 5, 6 grand it wants to miss until i play around with my timing until i can hear it by ear that its not missing anymore and then i think that its fine and i should be good to go but ive had it twice now that when i start it and rev it it misses right after i cleared it up by moving the dizzy so i dont know if that dizzy is moving on me or theres something internaly screwy in the dist itself. so thats why im thinking about puting a mag pickup or hei style dizzy without vacuum advance in because i know the issue is in my timing
 
Mancini sells a nice dizzy for like 165 you can curve it real easy and its top notch.
 
Works in my 73 Duster ...has 18 degrees of initial advance and 34 at 3000 rpm....

works with mp chrome box...msd 6al2....pc2015...

bought a MSD PN 8467 Racing Rotor last week......Made in China....

bought a MSD PN 8823 Vibration Mounts last week...Made in China...

The rotor is an exact copy or vice a versa of the Rotor for PC 8020 from Pro Comp....One dollar difference in Price.....
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-Chrys...-on-/171778548082?hash=item27fecca172&vxp=mtr

that distributor uses the MSD rotor from above...or vice a versa...

that one has 22 or 24 degrees of initial advance with 34 degrees at 3000 rpm.....I am having problems with spark scatter with the msd or pc 2015 with it.....no spark scatter with MP chrome box...but spark is no where the same as the 6al or 2015....

I working covering up part of the rotor with heat shrink tubing...but have not gotten chance to get it back in the car yet.....car is up in the air..
 
Muscley MOPAR said:
what are you running for a engine Scamper mines 11 compression 360 e85 engine cam specs are 570 lift on both and 275 duration at .50 so little to no vacuum...did you just get a different spring to adjust ur timing advance
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10.5:1 340 roller conversion but a lot less cam then you. I locked out the vacuum and mechanical advance to run the MSD 6al2 programmable ignition.
 
I'll have to try either locking out the mechanical timing or a lighter spring or try the white dizzy or look into the Mancini one...70 aar does ur motor feel like its missing at higher rpm, I'm just wondering if maby I'm getting what ur describing(spark scatter)
 
Muscley MOPAR said:
I'll have to try either locking out the mechanical timing or a lighter spring or try the white dizzy or look into the Mancini one...70 aar does ur motor feel like its missing at higher rpm, I'm just wondering if maby I'm getting what ur describing(spark scatter)
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It's very well possible that the rotor is getting too far from the desired terminal on the cap when its firing. you need to make sure the vacuum advance is locked out in the full advance position then setup your dizzy in the motor. Then use an old cap with windows cut out to see where the rotor is lining up in reference to the desired terminal.
 
ya thats very possible ill dig into that dizzy and make sure vacuum is locked out...how did you lock yours out the vacuum and the machanical...does that reluctor make it a more acurate tighter fit
thanks for the help guys
 
Muscley MOPAR said:
ya thats very possible ill dig into that dizzy and make sure vacuum is locked out...how did you lock yours out the vacuum and the machanical...does that reluctor make it a more acurate tighter fit
thanks for the help guys
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Let me tear back into my dizzy and take some pics. IIRC two of the holes, between the two plates, lined up at full advance. One of the holes is a triangle shape. I just drilled that hole to make it round and used a small low-profile bolt with washers in between the two plates to keep them parallel with each other. I reused the original triangular retaining clip as another fastening point opposite of the bolt I used.

For the mechanical I removed the weights and springs, drilled a small hole in each of the arms that the spring attaches to, and used high tension safety wire to lock it in full advance.

The MSD setup i'm using retards the timing at idle then backs off the retard as I bring up the RPM's. This is opposite of the way most ignition setups are programmed. Usually you program the advance in from idle on up to where you want full advance.
 
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