slant 6 gettin WARM

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stinkbug69

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i just got a 63 valiant and the previous owner put a aftermarket a/c unit in it. he took the original prop fan out and put in 2 electric fans. he has the a/c condensor on the outside of the radiator and a fan on the outside of the condensor. the other fan is on the inside of the radiator and it pulls air through. but its still gettin hot while i drive in town. the fans are kinda small, and there is a large area of radiator at the bottom that has no fan on it. plus he said that he put a 160 thermostat in it, dont they need a 180? or do i just need to get some bigger fans to cover the entire radiator. im at work today, ill try to get some pics up tomorrow that wat yall see what im talking about.

thanks alot

stinkbug69
 
Welcome aboard!
I'd start by putting the correct t-stat back in. The stock temp is 195*. The lower temp t-stat might be making the overheating worse, for example, if the water doesn't stay in the radiator long enough for it to cool down, when it gets back up to the thermostat the water won't be cool enough to shut it...t-stat stays open and the even hotter water flows through the radiator and doesn't get cool enough the subsequent times either...temp just climbs and climbs.
Temp issues while sitting/driving slowly are typically caused by air flow problems.
What size fans are on there? and how are they set to turn on?
 
its got 2 - 10in fans. one on the outside blowing in past the condensor and then one on the inside pulling through the radiator. ill get a new t-stat for it, a couple of people told me that. and once they explaned it, it made sense. can i just move the inside fan down towards the bottom of the rad. or do i need to get 2 bigger ones to get the proper flow.
 
2 10 inch fans...
Pusher is triggered off of the a/c compressor wire?
puller is triggered off of an adjustable thermostat? - what temp is it set at?
I'm thinking that the one on the inside should be a little bigger or additional fan, but I'd see about building a shroud. Basically ( sitting in traffic ) you aren't getting any flow through the radiator where the fan isn't pulling directly through.
Is the heating issue when the A/C is on or even with it off?
Are you sure that the temp gauge even works? ( I know it's a goofy question ) :)
 
only been driving the car for about 2 days now, so im not sure if it is a a/c issue. yes one comes on with the a/c and the other is switched on by a adjustable t-stat, not sure what that temp is set at. as far as the gauge goes, again im not 100% sure, but it does move as i drive it, so im assuming that it works. im gonna try to change out the t-stat to the 180* and see what that does for it, and go from there.
 
Welcome aboard!
----- if the water doesn't stay in the radiator long enough for it to cool down, when it gets back up to the thermostat the water won't be cool enough to shut it...t-stat stays open and the even hotter water flows through the radiator and doesn't get cool enough the subsequent times either.......

hello,
that is a commonly held belief,but incorrect. see this snip from:

14 Rules for Improving Engine Cooling System Capability in High-Performance Automobiles
Produced by the National Automotive Radiator Association (NARSA) and by Richard F. Crook, Transpro, Inc.
[FONT=arial,arial,helvetica]



" Coolant Flow Rate
Looking at the previous expression, we can see that slowing the coolant down is the wrong way to go. If the heat load is constant, lowering the flow will increase the temperature drop through the radiator, making the bottom tank, or radiator outlet, temperature less than before. If the bottom tank temperature goes down, the top tank temperature must go up to maintain approximately the same average core temperature so that the heat load may be transferred to the cooling air. At the reduced power setting it would rise above 190 degrees F and at 240 hp the engine would be overheating worse than before. In fact, because the lower flow rate results in lower coolant velocity and less “scrubbing action” in the tubes, the average coolant temperature must rise slightly in order to transfer the heat load from the coolant to the cooling air, making matters even worse.
What would happen if we increase the coolant flow? Will it go through the radiator so fast that there won’t be time for cooling to take place? Not at all, from the expression, we can see that if the heat load is constant, increasing the coolant flow rate will reduce the coolant temperature drop through the radiator, resulting in a higher bottom tank temperature. If the bottom tank temperature is increased, the top tank temperature must go down to maintain approximately the same average core temperature. This is what we were hoping to achieve. With the top tank temperature now less that 190 degrees F at the reduced power point, we can expect that the system will be better able to run at 240 hp without overheating, In fact, because the increased coolant flow rate results in a higher coolant flow velocity and better “scrubbing action” in the tubes, the average coolant temperature decreases slightly while transferring the same heat load to the cooling air, further lowering the top tank temperature, resulting in better cooling performance.
From this we see that increasing the coolant flow rate will result in better heat transfer performance. There are some cautions to be observed in increasing coolant flow rate, however. Going too far may result in aeration and foaming of the coolant, possible damage to the radiator by overpressure, cavitation of the pump, due to excessive pressure drop through the radiator, and erosion of the radiator tubes. The ideal coolant flow rate is one that will provide optimum coolant flow velocity through the radiator tubes in the range of 6 to 8 feet per second. Flow velocities above 10 feet per second should be avoided."
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FWIW,I used to think the same,but have wised up to what really happens.

regards,Rod:-D
 
i think i wadded through all the bullshit in the last post, no offense, lets see if i got this right: not enought flow = bad, toom uch flow = bad. go with the t-stat that the man. suggests. i decided to get the original temp. t-stat and a temp gauge that actually reads a numeric reading. what is the temp that i want the motor to run according to the numeric gauge?

thanks for all the help guys

stinkbug69
 
The bottom line is that the thermostat's job is to keep the engine from running too cold.
The rest of the cooling system is there to make it run as cold as possible.

The two work together to make the engine temp as constant as possible.

Putting a lower temperature thermostat in will only lower the engines temperature if the rest of the system has the capacity to cool it that much.

If your engine is overheating with a 180 thermostat it will overheat with a 160 just as much.
 
If it still has a steel shim gasket..

The sand cast holes line up with the sand cast holes in the head. Coolant normally flows back through the block to a point behind #6. It then flows up into the head, and back to the thermostat.

There should be no open coolant passages through the head gasket from the block to the head forward of cylinder #6.

The steel shim head gaskets rust through after time, and short circuit the cooling system.

Voila. Overheat. The coolant must flow to the back of the block prior to entering the head.

Something more to check.

CJ
 
I changed out the thermostat to a 180; flushed out the radiator but the gage still read high although the fluid was measuring anywhere between 170-190. I changed the sending unit temp screw on the block and the gage is now right in the middle of the normal range; I'm trilled!
 
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