And a drool tube head,its a confusing hodge podge of slant parts...slantenstein.I see points, car is a '74?
Tested various things...
Here is a video and photos. https://photos.app.goo.gl/gn1vTHGx7Rx93haW6
The video shows the timing mark moving. I tested my timing light, it is working fine on my 4.7 and my wifes car. My damper can't be moving as it wouldn't be lined up to tdc every time right? The video shows it moving but it looks wierd because the shutter speed of the angle. The strange thing... the moving slowed down a little after everything I've done... weird!
Distributor: Gear looks fine, is engaged fine. See photos
View attachment 1715550247
RustyRatRod mentioned the hot air valve (heat riser?). I looked at this and it does indeed appear seized. I have bashed it and WD-40'd the crap out of it, maybe I can get it unseized. Unfortunately if it is seized closed that would mean it would be harder starting, if it's seized open then its operating as it should at temp. Either way the car should run when warm. Someone is welcome to correct me if I'm wrong on that, I'll keep trying to get it unseized regardless, I also have a lot of oil or gas where the intake meets the exhaust manifold.
I'll move on to testing vacuum pressures next and look for something hidden disconnected, ill try the cardboard trick too.
Yes I know this story, except for their penetrate version. For something that doesn't penetrate or lubricate, it does a surprising job at both though (the multi-use version).WD40 is useless in that capacity. It's not penetrating oil. In fact, it's not even a lubricant. Try Sea Foam Deep Creep.
Yes I know this story, except for their penetrate version. For something that doesn't penetrate or lubricate, it does a surprising job at both though (the multi-use version).
Well...No (actually I haven't checked but I'm guessing not lol). The mechanism was rotating on the shaft.Did it free your hot air valve up?
Did it free your hot air valve up?
Heat Riser Rusty. Heat Riser.
@Silum
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I can use this, too for later reference. 7 & 3/32" at 0* TDC. Thanx for the pics.
Hopefully I am leading you in the right direction and not hindering your progress. Anyone else feel free to correct me. The first picture shows that advanced timing is on the passenger side and retarded is on the drivers side of zero degrees. The third pictures shows where I measured from. There is a ‘cross’ on the timing cover, I measured from where the horizontalish cross intersects the passenger edge of the cover. The second pictures shows that 6-3/4” is about where 5 degrees advance is.
Tested various things...
Here is a video and photos. https://photos.app.goo.gl/gn1vTHGx7Rx93haW6
Mine's doing the same thing, but doesn't drift as far and "bounces" back. I still have to pull my dist. out and check. I have a new dist. vacuum pot to put in. Pishta gave me some stuff to check out. Thank you for sharing your pics, too.
The video shows the timing mark moving. I tested my timing light, it is working fine on my 4.7 and my wifes car. My damper can't be moving as it wouldn't be lined up to tdc every time right? The video shows it moving but it looks wierd because the shutter speed of the angle. The strange thing... the moving slowed down a little after everything I've done... weird!
Distributor: Gear looks fine, is engaged fine. See photos
View attachment 1715550247
RustyRatRod mentioned the hot air valve (heat riser?). I looked at this and it does indeed appear seized. I have bashed it and WD-40'd the crap out of it, maybe I can get it unseized. Unfortunately if it is seized closed that would mean it would be harder starting, if it's seized open then its operating as it should at temp. Either way the car should run when warm. Someone is welcome to correct me if I'm wrong on that, I'll keep trying to get it unseized regardless, I also have a lot of oil or gas where the intake meets the exhaust manifold.
I'll move on to testing vacuum pressures next and look for something hidden disconnected, ill try the cardboard trick too.