Slant 6 mod's

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75dodgedart

75dodgedart

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Hello all,

So I have a slant 6 225 , what mods can be done from a machine shop to achieve 6=8 +? I have a pair of hooker super comp headers,4 barrel shorty clifford intake, and I do not plan on putting them on, unless the engine is modded to achieve MAX HP and torque, I want to dust one of these rice rockets :burnout: , also what cfm carb is the best for the intake. What MODS can be done to the engine, please feel free to list, Thank you and God Bless, MOPAR 4 LIFE :burnout:
 
75dodgedart said:
Hello all,

So I have a slant 6 225 , what mods can be done from a machine shop to achieve 6=8 +? I have a pair of hooker super comp headers,4 barrel shorty clifford intake, and I do not plan on putting them on, unless the engine is modded to achieve MAX HP and torque, I want to dust one of these rice rockets :burnout: , also what cfm carb is the best for the intake. What MODS can be done to the engine, please feel free to list, Thank you and God Bless, MOPAR 4 LIFE :burnout:
Click to expand...


Speed costs money (particularly, in this day and age!) How fast do you want to go???

You can add a 4-bbl carb, mill the head .100", install a cam and valve springs, put on a header, re-curve the distributor and change the rear axle ratio and (depending on the weight of the car...) end up with a high-14-second car @ 90 mph, for not a lot of money, assuming it doesn't weigh over 3,000 pounds.

Most ricers aren't that fast....

There ARE other options, if you feel you need to go faster than 14's....

Picki up a copy of this month's Car Craft and look at what Steve Nitti did with the slant six in his Duster. It now runs high tens in the quarter with a ProCharger (centrifugal supercharger) setup. Similar (and maybe even better) performance can be had with one turbocharger, but a ported head and forged internals (pistons and rods) are necessary for that kind of performance with reliability on a boosted motor.

Here's a YouTube link to one such animal:
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7QzUfV8iTpQ"]Turbo Slant Six 10.74 @ 127 mph 7-19-10 - YouTube[/ame]

That car has 1 4bbl carb, a smooth idle, is quiet, has an automatic transmission. and has "highway" gears in it.

But, it's a fast car, in anybody's book....

You pays your money and you takes your choice. You don't need a V8 to go pretty fast. I don't know if you noticed, but that little '66 Valiant ran 127 mph on that run....
 
To make use of the cliffords potential,you will want big valves,decent compression(9-10 to1),porting,big cam,and some 3.55+ gears. A 650 cfm Holley if you are good with tuning,or 650 eddy if not. If its an automatic at least a 26-2800 stall.
 
I would like to hit 13 or 12's. I know know the rear end must be changed out to a larger one and what gears should be put in the rear?, im trying to keep the car as stock as I can, so what in all needs to be done to the engine to achieve this? whats a list of things so I can tell the shop what I want done, trying to keep the cost down as much as possible,

Thank you and God Bless,

MOPAR 4 LIFE
 
Start pulling weight out of the car,as much as you can,easiest cheapest gains you can get.Guzzi Mark
 
75dodgedart said:
I would like to hit 13 or 12's. I know know the rear end must be changed out to a larger one and what gears should be put in the rear?, im trying to keep the car as stock as I can, so what in all needs to be done to the engine to achieve this? whats a list of things so I can tell the shop what I want done, trying to keep the cost down as much as possible,

Thank you and God Bless,

MOPAR 4 LIFE
Click to expand...


No matter what,its not gonna be cheap to run 12's or 13's with a slant.
 
In this clip, there is a 1962 225 powered Valint sedan, no NOS, just N/A, and it does high 11 sec 1/4 passes....manual too.
[ame="http://youtu.be/BpKp7sXQ10w"]302 Found[/ame]
[ame="http://youtu.be/htkLHWLfNKg"]302 Found[/ame]
 
You'll hear the name "Clifford" come up, but be very careful before you decide to spend any money with Clifford. They have a long and ugly reputation for being a bunch of clowns; see for example here, here, here, here, and here. Much of what they sell is inaccurately described, and a lot of it is not even slightly cost-effective. The good news is that you don't need to go to Clifford to get hot rod parts for slant-6s; there are lots of other, better options. See for example Dutra Duals and header options discussed in this thread and this one, Erson custom cams, HEI ignition upgrade, Mike Jeffreys windage trays, Hurricane intakes, other exotic intakes. Hi-perf engine buildup here, high-perf parts and build info here.
 
copied from another post of the same topic...


"im kinda in the same boat, i have a 73 dart swinger with the 225 3 spd auto...my grandpa is a drag engine builder, he said to start with exaust(sp?), and that the 2 part headers are best (gives you more room to work around them later...he said then do your intake (offenhauser of course, seems they are the only ones). he said 4 barel is fine but not to really go over 500cfm because youll flood it...he said at the same time you do your intake do a cam, again, if not you're just dumping to much gas in there....now, IMO, MSD is always nice, roller lifters and rockers (if they make em, im not sure), but the rollers would free up a ton of friction and possibly free up (im guessing) 30-40 horse...small things like electric fans cant hurt, take out the A/C (if you have it like me)......on a side note...i've been doing some looking around...when you get a intake, try to fine one that has each passage seperate (the two in the middle are normaly connected to each other) but ive come to understand that by sperating the middle two it help keep the heat down, wich of course is gonna help a little in torque....im not an expert, and im leaving this very open to scruteny, because again, im trying to get the same info as OP
after some more searching....be sure not to damage your intake or headers, because it seems it is a little tricky to find a pair that will work with each other....i guess ausi and clifford intakes will try to share the same space with hooker super comps....but im kinda under the impression that the offenhsr wont....either way...watch what you bump em into as you may need to send them back.....seems like your best bet is to get your dream intake, then have your header custome built around it. "

and i agree with red...realisticly....as much as i love the idea of 6 cyl taking v8s...it will NOT be cheap...my car already gives most "ricers" at least a run for there money and its stock...most ricers (courtesy of fast and the furious) think they can bolt on a new exaust throgh a body kit on it and its automaticly a 13 sec car....so beating those fools shouldnt be much of a problem with only a few of what i listed above
 
I really like those Dutra Duals, it would be nice to buy a complete all in one bolt on kit with everything for a street application, IE, intake, dutra duals, carb, exhaust pipes, and cam. Can this be done on a complete stock motor?
 
cchrishefish said:
I really like those Dutra Duals, it would be nice to buy a complete all in one bolt on kit with everything for a street application, IE, intake, dutra duals, carb, exhaust pipes, and cam. Can this be done on a complete stock motor?
Click to expand...

Every thing except the cam is bolt on. And no no "KIT" exists. Anything can be done to a stock engine, just what do you want to do???

Street, Strip, or just a wasted parking space...

Not much aftermarket for the slants. It is not simple to build a very fast slant car. Bolt on intake and exaust on a stock car and it will probly run 17'S if you can tune it (Depending on the car and weight).

Build it to the max if you want a fast car, big cam, big compression.
Or put a good gasket on it and a turbo and boost it till is blows minds!

This engine is fun either way just don't let the nay sayers mess with you...

TF
 
I am seeing a new Offenhauser manifold with 2 Weber carbs for $650.00, I am not sure about the choke options or kick down link for my automatic trans. Also, I am seeing starter clearance problems for the Dutra Duals, is there a mini starter available? I am confident I could install these parts myself, but I am not sure of my ability to change the cam, since I believe the motor has to be jacked up and the front grill may have to be removed, am I correct?
 
There is no starter clearance problem with the Dutra Duals. That's only with the "Dual Dutra Dual" installation, a race-only setup that uses two front manifolds. The twin-carb setup is only one of many induction options, and it may not be the best one…ask around; talk to people who have actually used it. Kickdown and choke with that twin Weber setup is strictly a "do it yerself" affair.

You're correct about what is necessary for an in-car cam swap.
 
You can use the "mini starter" from Magnum engines, ~$50 rebuilt or $10 used at junkyard (RAM trucks, Jeep's). Search ebay. Half the weight and size and sounds better.

A cam change would be the place to start to get higher horsepower. A higher lift cam will make the engine idle worse and have less torque at low rpm, but will bring on the power if you scream the engine (high rpm). However, to be effective, a high-lift cam needs good air breathing, i.e. large intake, ported heads, and free-flowing exhaust.

A cam change is medium difficulty and perhaps a good place to start on engine mod.s. You may have to remove the grill, but if that worries you, you need to get a manual and just jump in. However, if you plan to re-ring or change pistons, might be smarter to remove the engine and do it all at once. Maybe remove the tranny too for a rebuild, since almost as easy as taking out the engine alone.
 
madmax/6 said:
Start pulling weight out of the car,as much as you can,easiest cheapest gains you can get.Guzzi Mark
Click to expand...

Mark is the man! Lotus performance theory.." Better performance through weight reduction" Marks car is like a fine sandwich, plenty of beef and swiss cheese!

fast 6's are not expensive. I am doing a turbo 6 and im only in about $250 but am doing all my own fabbing. Supra turbo, 2.5 180 bend for the exhaust side off the stock log with CT-26 turbo flange mounted on top (3/8 plate) 350 CFM holley carb (off an old ford truck, drill PVR's out to about .076 and remove choke plate and fill linkage holes to make top airtight) some sort of carb hat (probably most expensive part of the whole deal) pressure line from turbo to fuel pump weap hole for boost reference, silicon hoses from the turbo to the carb hat, blow off valve, and oil line and dump from turbo. Need a 2bbl intake for the holley, dont know how to mod a 1920 or a 1945. Lots of shopping around, lots of time...What do you have to lose?
 
If I skip the cam will my horsepower increase enough to wake up the slant 6 enough to make it fun on the street for cruising? I am not interested in seeing how fast my car will go in a straight line for a quarter mile stretch, but I love to rev a little at the stop light. I am currently geared at 3:08, I think 3:50 is a better street option.
 
Neither 3.08 nor 3.50 was available in the rear axles installed by the factory in that car—have you swapped to a different rear axle?

I disagree that the cam is the best place to start with your upgrades. You can greatly improve driveability and performance with upgrades to the ignition, induction, and exhaust systems without touching the camshaft.

I also disagree that the mini starter sounds better (than a properly built Chrysler starter), but that's of no real consequence.

Really, what to do and in what order depends on your specific goals for the car's performance. What (exactly) do you want it to do differently than it does now?
 
Bill Dedman said:
slantsixdan said:
I also disagree that the mini starter sounds better (than a properly built Chrysler starter.)QUOTE]

I agree, Dan; there's nothing quite like the melodious song of the
"Highland Park Hummingbird"!!!:blob:
Click to expand...

Remember when a Chrysler starter motor was THE choice of Foley artists everywhere for car starter sounds in the movies? That and retired Plymouth cop cars for rollover/explosions in every car chase in every movie made in the 80s...
Click to expand...
 
When I purchased the car from the seller near Albany, NY in a town called Broadalbin, NY, the seller said that it had a 3:08 rear end ratio. However, there is not a tag on the rear, and it is a 7.25. I am looking to improve street performance, and I am not into drag racing.
If the tag on the rear is gone than I guess it is impossible to know the ratio?
 
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