Slant 6 no fire...

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cole74

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My 74 Scamp had a little mishap the other day. Fuel hose sprung a leak, resulting in a fire under the hood. Only damage was two plug wires and putting in a few new wires.

Now my problem, I can't get the car to fire. I've got power on both sides of the coil. I thought the coil may have got fried. I replaced the coil today still no fire. Only other thing I can think of is the pick up in the dist. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks, Cole
 
pull the left side plug off the ballast and see if there is still voltage with the key on
 
Ok I'll try that tomorrow. The ballast resistor you're talking about has about three spade terminals on it?
 
cole74 said:
Ok I'll try that tomorrow. The ballast resistor you're talking about has about three spade terminals on it?
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drivers side firewall, white with two plugs connected to it. one side will have blue and green the other will have a brown and another color, pull that one.
 
You are getting fuel ? and are you pulling a spark plug to check for spark ?
 
Will do moparkid. Memike, yeah already checked for spark. It won't even hit with fuel poured down the carb.
 
Be careful, a gas fowled plug will not help matters, Just saying in case they did get gas fowled . stay safe and I am sure 805moparkid has you on the right track =D>
 
memike said:
Be careful, a gas fowled plug will not help matters, Just saying in case they did get gas fowled . stay safe and I am sure 805moparkid has you on the right track =D>
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i stat assuming things based off what he said but your right. Spark or no spark OP?
 
No spark. Pulled a plug wire and turned it over, no fire. Pulled the coil plug wire and put a test light in the coil. It didn't flash the test light when try to start either.
 
Oh no Moparkid, it will not hit with gas down the carb. Car was running fine before the fire. Like I mentioned earlier, think it might be the pick up in the distributor?
 
I replaced what I "thought" was the vr, but it's on the passenger inner fender? Where abouts on the firewall is the one you're talking about?
 
Directly behind the engine. Should be almost centered.
 

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I've replaced that already. On my 74 scamp it's on the passenger side inner fender.
 
WoodenNickle said:
Voltage regulator on the firewall. 5 bucks.
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has nothing to do with spark... car will run without a voltage regulator until the battery dies

cole74 said:
Oh no Moparkid, it will not hit with gas down the carb. Car was running fine before the fire. Like I mentioned earlier, think it might be the pick up in the distributor?
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ok if you have no spark, but have power to the coil we can work with that.

first thing i would do is pull the cap of the distributor and crank it, see if the rotor is turning.

second would be to verify (ohm) the wires going to and from the ICU to make sure none fried and are touching each other.

at this point it could be a couple things, ICU, wiring, distributor gear, pickup
 
Figured it out. It was the ignition control module. Replaced it and it fired up. Thanks for the help fellas.
 
cole74 said:
Figured it out. It was the ignition control module. Replaced it and it fired up. Thanks for the help fellas.
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Make DAMN certain the ECU and while you are at it the regulator...........are GROUNDED.
 
67Dart273 said:
Make DAMN certain the ECU and while you are at it the regulator...........are GROUNDED.
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Second that. Indeed, don't throw the original ECU out since it may be fine and just wasn't getting a good ground thru the rusty sheet-metal screw. That is a common problem, especially in humid regions. Also, next time you post, give precise descriptions without wishy-washy slang. You had people here uselessly spinning their wheels from terms like "no fire", "test light in the coil", ...
 
best thing to do is just replace the ballast resister for no more than they cost first. then cceck out the voltage regulator. i'm betting the balast resister is the culprit.
 
Unfortunately, although these Mopar ignition systems have been around for 42 years now, people still can't understand how to diagnose them.

The number one thing that kills spark to a Mopar electronic ignition is ECU failure. If you drive one of these cars, carry a spare, always. I had one fail sitting at an intersection. One second the engine was running, the next it wasn't and didn't again until the box was replaced.

The second most common is the ballast resistor. Those almost always fail the same way: the engine starts and runs as long as the key is held to START. Let off and it quits. Again, carry a spare.

I'm sure coils and hall-effect switches inside the distributor do fail, but that's way down the list. Where did a voltage regulator come in as causing a car not to START? That's the charging system, nothing to do with ignition unless you are an amateur parts replacer.
 
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