Dave_J
Well-Known Member
A 3.50" bore on a 170 (2.8L) short stroke, 180.4 CI or 2.96L, with a big valve ported head and a turbo pushing 20+ PSI would be fun in a light A body.
Slant 6 stroker?
- Thread starter toolmanmike
- Start date
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Yes, because now you can take advantage of the cylinder head actually made for the 170.
Dave_J
Well-Known Member
I had a 1965 Valaint with a 170, 4 speed and 3.54:1 gears. While it did not win many races aganst 327 Chevs it would kick the stuffing out of most 6 cylinder Mustangs, 6 Banger Chevy 2 Novas and any Corvair except the Turbo ones.
slantsixdan
=..=
LOLROFL. Yeah, let's find someone to spend a kilodollar for a garage monument (part that isn't really useful without the rest of the parts to go with it, and even then, probably not). Pretty good odds it might not even properly bolt up to any production gasoline Slant-6 engine; a lot of changes were made for the diesel project. Detailed info here, including pics of that same exhaust manifold or another one like it.
Dave_J
Well-Known Member
Bet that E-bay unit will not pass a Magnflux test. Looks cracked.
Dave_J
Well-Known Member
IF and only IF I were wanting to do a \6 turbo I'd just CNC plasma or water jet cut 6 Stainless Steel flanges and weld some thick wall tubing up to a T4 flange. This way you can match the firing order for a split 3 + 3. The T4 turbo has twin scrolls so plumbing 3 into one and 3 into the other will be best.
But if its not being done for pure looks and I really needed a 6 cylinder, I'd just do a max build on a 3.9L V6 with a hairdrier on it with maybe 10 PSI. Yes the ports on the 3.9 suck but on each head, max port the bad port and then flow match the other 2 to it.
But if its not being done for pure looks and I really needed a 6 cylinder, I'd just do a max build on a 3.9L V6 with a hairdrier on it with maybe 10 PSI. Yes the ports on the 3.9 suck but on each head, max port the bad port and then flow match the other 2 to it.
junkyardhero
Well-Known Member
that was my same reaction. just the whole thing didn't pass the smell test.
I mean seriously, when you can EASILY make a J pipe with the stock slant 6 exhaust manifold flange on one end and a T3/4 flange on the other, why would you need anything else?
Dave_J
Well-Known Member
Iron log heats the intake manifold since they are bolted together. Just removing the heat flapper door helps a LITTLE but not enough for Hi Performance NA or TURBO.
But you can machine the iron center section down and POOF, turbo exhaust manifold.
Plus, a little power gain in port timing by matching the firing order into 3 + 3. Not a lot but when you are talking a little free power here and there......
On the Iron log we split years ago and brazed a steel pipe on each set of 3 cylinders it was OK until we started running 5500 RPM for over 1 minute and the whole log was glowing bright cherry red. The 2 J pipes all the way to the turbo was dark cherry red too.
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Or do like I did and just block off the hot air to the intake altogether. There's still some heat transfer, but nowhere near with the the two still mated.
Dave_J
Well-Known Member
That works well for NA.
But TURBO's add their own heat, all superchargers do but turbos more so.
I'm only suggesting how I'd do it. But to everyone else, as always, You be You. ;)
Oh I agree 100%. Since they run off exhaust they need all the cooling they can get.
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