I have a question. I swapping a 6 for a 340 in my 1968 Dart. I have the conversin mount kit from Schumacher that I'm going to use. The instructions say I need to change the torsion bars and brakes, I've got drums. I've had other guys say it's not a bad idea but not absolutey necessary right away. Does anyone have an opinion on this? I'm not planning on tearing up the streets, it's just going to be driven for fun.
slant 6 to 340
- Thread starter greg
- Start date
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Been there done that and I'll say the instructions give very good advice though it's not a must do. But a damn good idea that I followed through on and I'll have to agree, it's an EXCELLENT idea!
I had a 4 wheel power drum set up on my Duster. It was OK.
When I changed to a stock disc on the front and 11 inch drums on the back, then I can say, this was worth paying the price, hands down. MUCH better!
This, I HIGHLY recomend!
I had a 4 wheel power drum set up on my Duster. It was OK.
When I changed to a stock disc on the front and 11 inch drums on the back, then I can say, this was worth paying the price, hands down. MUCH better!
This, I HIGHLY recomend!
damnimcooltom
Too Cool For School
It's a good idea, and I would recommend it, but as far as being needed, like, the mounts won't work or something, you're fine. You don't have to pull the engine back out or anything to do the brakes and suspension after the engine.
I swapped from slant 6 to a mild smallblock last winter. I used the Schumacher kit, worked very well. I did not swap the breaks or torsion bars or even the 7 1/4 rear end. Everything worked just fine through the summer. I do intend to swap the breaks and rear end this coming winter. And I would advice everyone to do the same. With more power/weight sufficient breaks is necessary.
Mad Dart
Nothing to see Here!
Brakes would be #1 on the list. I am keeping my 6cyl torsion bars for weight transfer purposes!
Also I had a Schumacher kit for a 318 Swap but my plans changed to a 360. I bought the Trans Dapt kit for $60.00 from Summit, It fits WAY better than the Schumacher kit for less $$ and it even looks better!
I myself will NEVER buy another Schumacher Kit.
Also I had a Schumacher kit for a 318 Swap but my plans changed to a 360. I bought the Trans Dapt kit for $60.00 from Summit, It fits WAY better than the Schumacher kit for less $$ and it even looks better!
I myself will NEVER buy another Schumacher Kit.
Mad Dart; question for ya.
Correct or not?
The Trans Dapt kit is crazy cheap, but comes without the buscuts (Motor mounts) right?
(If so, Theres an added expense.)
The Sch-kit is pricey, but it has the newer fail safe set up. Like MoPar uses. In urathane (SP!)
The trans Dpt kit doesn't work on new spool type frames. Correct?
Correct or not?
The Trans Dapt kit is crazy cheap, but comes without the buscuts (Motor mounts) right?
(If so, Theres an added expense.)
The Sch-kit is pricey, but it has the newer fail safe set up. Like MoPar uses. In urathane (SP!)
The trans Dpt kit doesn't work on new spool type frames. Correct?
dgc333
Well-Known Member
My 68 Barracuda was originally a \6 car with the 9" drums. IMHO, you should not drive the car on the road in traffic at all with those brakes, \6 or v8. I did for about a year and I can't count the times I scared the crap out of my self. If your car has the 10" drums you are in a better position to wait. I swapped in the 11" 73+ a-body disks in the front and 10 x2.5 drums in the rear before making the engine swap.
My car actually had the heavy duty suspension that included the .850" diameter torsion bars (most \6 cars will have the .830" bars) that were also used as the light duty sb bars and the 6 leaf rear springs. Again IMHO, even those bars aren't big enough for a \6 let alone a v8. Even with new shocks the car bottom over medium dips in the road and had excessive body roll in the corners. I upgraded to .890" big block bars (and lots of folks recommend even bigger) and installed a 1.125" sway bar before swapping in the v8. The brakes and suspension upgrades totally transformed the car, I can drive in traffic with confidence and the car handles on par with most new cars.
After the v8 was swapped in I upgraded to power steering and that was another major transformation in the way the car handled. Instead of feeling like you are at the tiller of a barge not to mention the thrashing of the wheel in a parking lot the car is now a quick and confident in transitional maneuvers.
It would be my recommendation to upgrade the brakes and suspension before even thinking about the engine swap and seriously consider power steering (if you don't have it). Your fun factor will be much higher if the car handles and stops on par with most of the cars on the road today. Doing the v8 first it will be hard to resist the temptation to use the load pedal and you could easily get your self into a position where you are planting your car into the back of a Civic that can stop in 1/2 the distance.
My car actually had the heavy duty suspension that included the .850" diameter torsion bars (most \6 cars will have the .830" bars) that were also used as the light duty sb bars and the 6 leaf rear springs. Again IMHO, even those bars aren't big enough for a \6 let alone a v8. Even with new shocks the car bottom over medium dips in the road and had excessive body roll in the corners. I upgraded to .890" big block bars (and lots of folks recommend even bigger) and installed a 1.125" sway bar before swapping in the v8. The brakes and suspension upgrades totally transformed the car, I can drive in traffic with confidence and the car handles on par with most new cars.
After the v8 was swapped in I upgraded to power steering and that was another major transformation in the way the car handled. Instead of feeling like you are at the tiller of a barge not to mention the thrashing of the wheel in a parking lot the car is now a quick and confident in transitional maneuvers.
It would be my recommendation to upgrade the brakes and suspension before even thinking about the engine swap and seriously consider power steering (if you don't have it). Your fun factor will be much higher if the car handles and stops on par with most of the cars on the road today. Doing the v8 first it will be hard to resist the temptation to use the load pedal and you could easily get your self into a position where you are planting your car into the back of a Civic that can stop in 1/2 the distance.
HemiEd
Well-Known Member
Yeah, that is what I was going to ask, if he had the little 9 inch brakes or not. My daughters car used to have them, with a /6. I was always replacing them, they are just inadequate.
Now the 10 inch drums aren't too bad, I had those on my drag car, but it was the weakest part of the car. I turned the drums blue a few times.
Mad Dart
Nothing to see Here!
It comes with the MOTOR MOUNTS in the package with ALL the bolts nuts and washers to install them complete!
I am going to run Solid mounts so I will not use them.
I don't know about the Newer K Frames. But for the older cars 67-72 these work just fine!
mopardude318
Well-Known Member
If the trans dapt kit works for 67-72 K-members, I dont see how they will work for spool mount K-members...
Mad Dart
Nothing to see Here!
They will not work with Spool Mount K Members.
Here is the link and these will work on 67-72 A Body engine swaps 340 or 360 only......Will work on a 318 with a massage though!
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TRD-4695/
Thanks Mad D.
HotLines
Realist - Free Thinker
Quote: I'm not planning on tearing up the streets, it's just going to be driven for fun.
ya mean like 40mph in a school zone
ya mean like 40mph in a school zone
1BadDodge71
FABO Rice Hater
I used the Trans-Dapt swap mounts on my 72 Duster when I swapped the /6 in for the 360.Worked great and only paid like $70.
I too havent swapped the brakes,torsion bars ,or 7 1/4 rear yet,but plan to later.Im not planning on tearing up the streets either
right side
left Side
I too havent swapped the brakes,torsion bars ,or 7 1/4 rear yet,but plan to later.Im not planning on tearing up the streets either
right side
left Side
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