BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
I thought it might help to share photos from cleaning up my 1964(?) slant engine, while installed in the car. The engine appears sound, since in turning it over by hand I must wait >5 sec for each piston to hiss down. I'll check compression later when hot. I adjusted the valves cold since I read <2 mil difference than hot specs. Only a few needed a ~2 mil tweak.
I removed both oil pan and valve covers, removed all old paint and rust (wire brush, chemical, sandpaper), and repainted. I used "Rust Destroyer" rattle can (claims 800 F), then Rustoleum rattle can engine paint (500 F) on both. Gloss black on the oil pan and a new "Metal Coat" paint I just ran across (main hint for others). The later requires their "Ground Coat" first, which looks like old "bumper chrome", though not needed if shiny metal. The valve cover looks great, which I can't quite capture it in a photo. I considered a cast aluminum Offenhauser, but never found a deal in years of looking.
I used silicone gaskets from Real Gaskets. They are pricey, but re-usable, and I have no problem paying to encourage their support for our classic engines. Nothing will frustrate more than an oil leak. I am so tired of the valve cover leak in my 1965 383 engine that I may remove the heads to machine a flat surface (like slant), now that I have a milling machine.
Internally, all I did was wash down the gunk at the top end, using gasoline, and cleaned the inner walls from below. I also changed the rear oil seal, using a set for my 383 engine (same PN). It already had the newer split rubber seal that you push around on top of crank. It didn't show a leak, but so hard to remove the oil pan (jack up engine) it is smart to replace while exposed. I also removed the oil pickup, soaked in gas overnight, and blew the carbon junk out of the screen.
Since this engine has been sitting a while (~3 yrs), and the gas wash, it seemed prudent to charge the oil passages. In small blocks (and I think big blocks), one can remove the distributor drive and use an electric drill to spin the oil pump via a special allen shaft. Not having the later, I long-ago rigged up a little garden sprayer as an oil charger. This seems the only option for a slant. I removed the little oil passage plug (near oil pump) and got clean oil, w/ no junk.
Finally, my question. I never got oil to the top end. I filled the oil pan, probably from dripping out the cam bearings. I removed the pressurizer and cranked the engine many times w/ starter (over several days to keep cool and recharge), but nothing at the rockers. I had drip catchers all ready (great use for campaign flyers). Perhaps since the pickup tube was dry, the oil pump doesn't turn fast enough from cranking to suck up oil. Anyone done similar? It will be a while before I can run the engine (electric fuel pump, new ignition & wiring).
I don't know what oil pressure this engine runs, since the switch port had a 3/8" plug installed (suspicious?). I must wait until I run the engine again to see if a problem, and I will have a pressure gage installed then. For now, I just poured oil over the top end. The engine ran perfect when I drove it home after buying. So quiet at idle you could barely tell it was running (even w/ points). I did have to hot-wire the ignition due to funky wiring.
A few side comments:
I painted just one side of the engine while clean and exposed. Do it in bits and someday it may all get painted in the car. I earlier painted the engine brackets while swapping the rubber. I found the passenger side bracket was bent, leaning the engine too much into the inner fender (spark wires could arc if touching). Somebody added spacers (old brake pads). I bent the bracket back w/ my shop press, so the engine sits better.
Later, while cleaning the K-frame to paint (suspension & steering out), I found the passenger side strut mount "dished in". Things are adding up to "accident". I swapped in a K-frame I picked up this summer at a swap meet. I would hate to do that swap once all parts are back in. I supported the engine w/ my engine lift.
I previously painted the firewall and inner fenders (working around the engine). I first removed the stupid "black rattle can over rust & grease" 'improvement' most gomers do, got to bare metal and sanded off all surface rust. Seemed smart while everything was off the firewall.
You can see the GM HEI ignition module I installed. I found a new electronic distributor on ebay cheap. I tested spark by spinning the distributor by hand. The pickup wiring is temp until I verify polarity (50% chance). Haven't run the engine with it yet.
I assume the original 1964 engine, though info the casting no tables I found are sketchy. It has 3 core plugs. Block casting: "2463430-8", date "8 12". Stamp on pad behind alt bracket: "V 22 8 14", head "2206035-4", date "8-9".
Please no fussing "why taking so long", since my wife and kids manage that. This convertible is one of 7 cars in our current fleet (lowest mileage 205K), and just for fun. I am also pool boy, gardener, appliance guy, house fixer, and full-time+ job. Just trying to get this car moving again so I can access the garage space, but I do everything right. Life is too short to "work erratic" (most people). It really wasn't much extra work to work around the engine. I hate disconnecting an engine and tranny.
I removed both oil pan and valve covers, removed all old paint and rust (wire brush, chemical, sandpaper), and repainted. I used "Rust Destroyer" rattle can (claims 800 F), then Rustoleum rattle can engine paint (500 F) on both. Gloss black on the oil pan and a new "Metal Coat" paint I just ran across (main hint for others). The later requires their "Ground Coat" first, which looks like old "bumper chrome", though not needed if shiny metal. The valve cover looks great, which I can't quite capture it in a photo. I considered a cast aluminum Offenhauser, but never found a deal in years of looking.
I used silicone gaskets from Real Gaskets. They are pricey, but re-usable, and I have no problem paying to encourage their support for our classic engines. Nothing will frustrate more than an oil leak. I am so tired of the valve cover leak in my 1965 383 engine that I may remove the heads to machine a flat surface (like slant), now that I have a milling machine.
Internally, all I did was wash down the gunk at the top end, using gasoline, and cleaned the inner walls from below. I also changed the rear oil seal, using a set for my 383 engine (same PN). It already had the newer split rubber seal that you push around on top of crank. It didn't show a leak, but so hard to remove the oil pan (jack up engine) it is smart to replace while exposed. I also removed the oil pickup, soaked in gas overnight, and blew the carbon junk out of the screen.
Since this engine has been sitting a while (~3 yrs), and the gas wash, it seemed prudent to charge the oil passages. In small blocks (and I think big blocks), one can remove the distributor drive and use an electric drill to spin the oil pump via a special allen shaft. Not having the later, I long-ago rigged up a little garden sprayer as an oil charger. This seems the only option for a slant. I removed the little oil passage plug (near oil pump) and got clean oil, w/ no junk.
Finally, my question. I never got oil to the top end. I filled the oil pan, probably from dripping out the cam bearings. I removed the pressurizer and cranked the engine many times w/ starter (over several days to keep cool and recharge), but nothing at the rockers. I had drip catchers all ready (great use for campaign flyers). Perhaps since the pickup tube was dry, the oil pump doesn't turn fast enough from cranking to suck up oil. Anyone done similar? It will be a while before I can run the engine (electric fuel pump, new ignition & wiring).
I don't know what oil pressure this engine runs, since the switch port had a 3/8" plug installed (suspicious?). I must wait until I run the engine again to see if a problem, and I will have a pressure gage installed then. For now, I just poured oil over the top end. The engine ran perfect when I drove it home after buying. So quiet at idle you could barely tell it was running (even w/ points). I did have to hot-wire the ignition due to funky wiring.
A few side comments:
I painted just one side of the engine while clean and exposed. Do it in bits and someday it may all get painted in the car. I earlier painted the engine brackets while swapping the rubber. I found the passenger side bracket was bent, leaning the engine too much into the inner fender (spark wires could arc if touching). Somebody added spacers (old brake pads). I bent the bracket back w/ my shop press, so the engine sits better.
Later, while cleaning the K-frame to paint (suspension & steering out), I found the passenger side strut mount "dished in". Things are adding up to "accident". I swapped in a K-frame I picked up this summer at a swap meet. I would hate to do that swap once all parts are back in. I supported the engine w/ my engine lift.
I previously painted the firewall and inner fenders (working around the engine). I first removed the stupid "black rattle can over rust & grease" 'improvement' most gomers do, got to bare metal and sanded off all surface rust. Seemed smart while everything was off the firewall.
You can see the GM HEI ignition module I installed. I found a new electronic distributor on ebay cheap. I tested spark by spinning the distributor by hand. The pickup wiring is temp until I verify polarity (50% chance). Haven't run the engine with it yet.
I assume the original 1964 engine, though info the casting no tables I found are sketchy. It has 3 core plugs. Block casting: "2463430-8", date "8 12". Stamp on pad behind alt bracket: "V 22 8 14", head "2206035-4", date "8-9".
Please no fussing "why taking so long", since my wife and kids manage that. This convertible is one of 7 cars in our current fleet (lowest mileage 205K), and just for fun. I am also pool boy, gardener, appliance guy, house fixer, and full-time+ job. Just trying to get this car moving again so I can access the garage space, but I do everything right. Life is too short to "work erratic" (most people). It really wasn't much extra work to work around the engine. I hate disconnecting an engine and tranny.
