Jonnylightening
Well-Known Member
Anyone have pics of their heat riser block off or deletes? I'd like to get rid of that. If at all possible I'd really like to cut it off and weld a plate or something of that sort.
Actually that's the second worst thing you can do. You will have heat to the bottom of the intake at all times. Not as much as if the heat riser were in the full heat position (worst thing), but exhaust will still be at the intake. What I did was put the "flapper" in the no heat position, then welded around the flapper to seal it to the exhaust manifold. I used Spray weld, but braze will work.You cut the butterfly shaft in 3rds and get it out of there along with the butterfly flap. (sawzall)
There are steel bushings that are left behind in the cast iron manifold that can be easily welded shut with a wirefeed welder.
My car idles in 20 seconds and is ready to drive in under 50 degree weather. I have the electric choke adjusted so it slams completely open and I don't even have it wired up. I'll be glad to shoot a video if you like.Removing the heat riser is a waste of time. Without it your carburetor will start to ice up in under 50* of damp weather. Welding a plate to the top of the exhaust manifold to "shield" the intake is also a waste of time. The purpose of the heat riser is to force the exhaust gases up against the bottom of the intake, without it, the exhaust flows smoothly out the exhaust pipe.
Removing "heat" from the carburetor makes sense when the carburetor sits in the middle of a large heat source such as a V8. With a inline engine the carburetor is several inches from the heat source and needs "heat" to help atomize the fuel for distribution.
The "Hyper Pak" didn't have provisions for a manifold heat source because it was an over the counter dealer option for off road performance activities. If you talk to anybody that has installed the manifold, you will find that they are miserable for daily driving and take forever to heat up to properly distribute the fuel.
I agree there are places it may be needed, but even in PA it will get up to temp with the manifold heat blocked off. Some folks on here act like the manifold gets zero heat using a block of plate. I made my plate out of a piece of fender. Sheet metal. I guarantee you there's still some heat transmitted to the bottom of the intake. It's sittin on TOP of the exhaust manifold, for God's sake! lolYeh, but in PA? I'm thinking you need the heat.
My car idles in 20 seconds and is ready to drive in under 50 degree weather. I have the electric choke adjusted so it slams completely open and I don't even have it wired up. I'll be glad to shoot a video if you like.
Says the guy from the warmest and driest part of the U.S.My Offy dual 1 barrels and Dutra Duals have no heat riser and will right up and be ready to go in a minute or two down into the 50's as well.
Says the guy from the warmest and driest part of the U.S.
I can still remember a sand buggy at the NAS Miramar auto hobby shop in the early 70's. Had a hot rod sheet metal / tube manifold, and I don't remember whether it was a corvair or VW engine. You blip the engine ON A 100 DEGREE DAY and there was ICE under the carb cavity.
I have a setup to block off the heat to the manifold along with hoses and a valve to be able to turn it on and off so you can put on in the winter you could probably use itAnyone have pics of their heat riser block off or deletes? I'd like to get rid of that. If at all possible I'd really like to cut it off and weld a plate or something of that sort.
The setup that I told you I have is for running hot coolant to the underside of the manifold with a valve to block it off in the summer. I would also suggest heat wrap on your exhaust runners. If you would like to go to the coolant route to set up is yours for the shipAnyone have pics of their heat riser block off or deletes? I'd like to get rid of that. If at all possible I'd really like to cut it off and weld a plate or something of that sort.