Slant heater hose connector

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TF360

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Simple question for you guys. I remember years ago, I connected the two heater hoses on my slant to bypass the heater core. Any issues with doing this? I guess the coolant would just constantly run through the lines. What connector could be used?
 
No cooloing issues doing that. You might have to change out one nipple so they are both the same size. Ask the parts store if you can look at the pre formed hoses for a "U" that will work, or just cap them.
 
Take a look at the brass pex connectors.

I saved a bunch of money on a ford focus by using bulk straight hose and the brass pex connectors for the the bends rather than all the individual hoses with the preformed bends.

I even managed to solder 2 different size pex connectors together for the hose that was different sizes on each end. Just put the adapter in the middle of 2 different size hoses.
 
I would avoid the rubber caps, at least on the engine outlets as they will rupture and usually at the worst possible moment (fine for capping the heater core outlets)

But, you can use this pre-formed "J" hose, Dayco 87617.
(alternate hose-Dayco 87618).
Trim as needed and it works perfectly, looks like it was made just for this purpose. I use it on the race motors.
J-Hose.jpg
 
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Badvert65 said:
I would avoid the rubber caps, at least on the engine outlets as they will rupture and usually at the worst possible moment (fine for capping the heater core outlets)

But, you can use this pre-formed "J" hose, Dayco 87617.
(alternate hose-Dayco 87618).
Trim as needed and it works perfectly, looks like it was made just for this purpose. I use it on the race motors.
View attachment 1715402278
Click to expand...
Agreed, the rubber caps do not last.
PS: Badvert, on my race motors, I install pipe plugs in the head, and water pump. You do need to tap threads in the water pump. Even do the bypass hose with plugs. If running a T-stat, do not plug the bypass hose.
 
Charrlie_S said:
Agreed, the rubber caps do not last.
PS: Badvert, on my race motors, I install pipe plugs in the head, and water pump. You do need to tap threads in the water pump. Even do the bypass hose with plugs. If running a T-stat, do not plug the bypass hose.
Click to expand...

Well, I considered putting plugs in, but with this hose, it is simpler to replace the water pump, especially if I have to do it on the road. I can use a pump right out of the box.
 
Badvert65 said:
Well, I considered putting plugs in, but with this hose, it is simpler to replace the water pump, especially if I have to do it on the road. I can use a pump right out of the box.
Click to expand...
I agree for a street car. I would only use the plugs on a race car.
 
If nothing else, one of the cheapest ways is a 3/8 pipe nipple say, 3-4" long. 3/8" NPT is approximently 5/8" OD
 
All the parts stores have them.
 
Badvert65 said:
I would avoid the rubber caps, at least on the engine outlets as they will rupture and usually at the worst possible moment (fine for capping the heater core outlets)

But, you can use this pre-formed "J" hose, Dayco 87617.
(alternate hose-Dayco 87618).
Trim as needed and it works perfectly, looks like it was made just for this purpose. I use it on the race motors.
View attachment 1715402278
Click to expand...

I used a preformed hose last fall, until I get the new heater core installed this winter/spring. I had to shorten it a little, but it fit perfectly.
 
none of the parts stores had them. or at least didnt want to look for a "u" or a "j" shaped heater hose . they all kept asking what yearmakemodel... ugh... anyway. temp fix while i was in there swapping the water pump. would like to rebuild the heater in the near future to help cool the engine(slant 6). plus its in the low 50's here in Los Angeles. anything below 75degF is hoodie weather for us locals ;)
 
68slant6 said:
none of the parts stores had them. or at least didnt want to look for a "u" or a "j" shaped heater hose . they all kept asking what yearmakemodel... ugh... anyway. temp fix while i was in there swapping the water pump. would like to rebuild the heater in the near future to help cool the engine(slant 6). plus its in the low 50's here in Los Angeles. anything below 75degF is hoodie weather for us locals ;)
Click to expand...
I run a summit flex fan and my slant runs cool , in he summer here gets to 85 to 95 and if you make a shroud even better
 
67belevdere/225 said:
I run a summit flex fan and my slant runs cool , in he summer here gets to 85 to 95 and if you make a shroud even better
Click to expand...

yes thats what ive heard about the shrouds. i think my radiator is aftermarket, i saw universal shrouds on summit and my cheap *** thought "i could make that"... now i cant bring myself to order it til i find a baking dish to butcher up ;)
 
TF360 said:
Simple question for you guys. I remember years ago, I connected the two heater hoses on my slant to bypass the heater core. Any issues with doing this? I guess the coolant would just constantly run through the lines. What connector could be used?
Click to expand...
Have you found your heater hose reducer you were looking for? It's been 2 1/2 years since you asked !
 
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