slant six cranks but won't start

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Dr John OConnor PhD said:
we do start it from the key working on compression test spark plugs new not fouled never been running parked long time not using gas tank NOT THROWING MONEY AT ANYTHING we are taking it one part at a time to diagnose the issue your statement is a bit insulting! put questions here because we are stuck and thought we might get help with something we may have missed!
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My statement is not insulting. We are trying to find out what you are up to, what you have done, what you have tested. You didn't answer questions posed by several of the members. Bear in mind, "phd" that none of us hear get or expect any pay for this, and "once in awhile" considerable time gets expended by collective members. On top of that we get to sit here and "imagine" what the various posters are doing and thinking. I'm not there and I cannot see what you are up to, only guess.
 
Where does TDC show on your damper pulley? Is the #1 piston visibly at its highest point through the spark plug hole when the mark is at TDC? That's when the rotor should be pointing at #1. They can spin on the center section as they are only held by 50year old elastomeric rubber. Fuel. compression and spark is all you need. Sounds like you got fuel and compression, working on the spark. 'course they all have to be times right too.
 
Dr John OConnor PhD said:
we do start it from the key working on compression test spark plugs new not fouled never been running parked long time not using gas tank NOT THROWING MONEY AT ANYTHING we are taking it one part at a time to diagnose the issue your statement is a bit insulting! put questions here because we are stuck and thought we might get help with something we may have missed!
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...and you're gettin help. Nobody insulted you, so get out from hiding under the kitchen table. @67Dart273 (Del) is one our sharpest members. I even hooked you up with @Garrett Ellison whose in your neck of the woods and sounds like he's willing to come over there an hour one way and help you out. Nobody here is a damned mind reader. We don't know your skills. We don't know everything you've tried. We're not THERE, we're on the internet, like a one legged man in an *** kickin contest trying to help YOU get your car running. Nobody here gets paid. You have FREE access to probably over 500 years of collective automotive experience all trying to help you for FREE and all you can try to dig out of it is an insult? I think you better back up.
 
Is your rotor even turning on cranking? ...... stripped/sheared plastic distributor shaft gear. worst case is broken timing chain. If it tries/does start with carb cleaner shot into the carb, then its not ignition.
 
71dust said:
I have checked the distributor cap and have even taken the burnt edge off the point, but still nothing. I am now stuck with checking the compression in each cylinder I guess. I am in the middle of moving so this is less then convenient but I'll let you know what I find any other advice would be great.
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ok, this just happened to me less than a month ago. My car had been running for a few days and I decided to drive it up to a buddies house. at a stopsign it just died and when i cranked it, it stuttered and shook then just didn't fire.
What happened was some dirt that I missed rebuilding the carb got shook loose and is blocking one of passages in the carb. So this means that less fuel is getting to it since its blocked. To fix it temporarily (until you rebuild carb) give it some choke in order to keep the gas-air ratio all nice and dandy.
 
shittyslant6 said:
ok, this just happened to me less than a month ago. My car had been running for a few days and I decided to drive it up to a buddies house. at a stopsign it just died and when i cranked it, it stuttered and shook then just didn't fire.
What happened was some dirt that I missed rebuilding the carb got shook loose and is blocking one of passages in the carb. So this means that less fuel is getting to it since its blocked. To fix it temporarily (until you rebuild carb) give it some choke in order to keep the gas-air ratio all nice and dandy.
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damn, maybe I should read next time and I would of found out that the original op got his problem fixed in 2014....
eh, it should still apply:poke:
 
I just spent a bit of time reading through this. Little feedback from the good dr.

Basics...confirm fuel spark and air.

Unclip the distributor cap and set aside. Turn engine over and confirm the rotor is actually turning.

Pull coil lead and hold close to a ground while cranking. Does it spark? Or pull a convenient plug, reinsert into plug wire, hold threaded base on ground and crank. Spark?

Can't see on my phone but with all that cranking, is there fuel in that clear gas filter?

Or Dr. Garrett makes a house call.
 
KosmicKuda said:
I just spent a bit of time reading through this. Little feedback from the good dr.

Basics...confirm fuel spark and air.

Unclip the distributor cap and set aside. Turn engine over and confirm the rotor is actually turning.

Pull coil lead and hold close to a ground while cranking. Does it spark? Or pull a convenient plug, reinsert into plug wire, hold threaded base on ground and crank. Spark?

Can't see on my phone but with all that cranking, is there fuel in that clear gas filter?

Or Dr. Garrett makes a house call.
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Ok I will try these thank you by the way we are just pouring the gas into the carb do not have gas inn the tank yet
 
Dr John OConnor PhD said:
Ok I will try these thank you by the way we are just pouring the gas into the carb do not have gas inn the tank yet
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It's generally not a good idea to pour too much gas into a carb. Unless the engine starts, most if it goes right through and washes the cylinder walls of lubrication. If done while cranking, a backfire will ignite your container and someone will get hurt. If it doesn't at least fire a little with a shot of starting fluid, look elsewhere.
 
71dust said:
I have a 1971 Plymouth Duster. It has been sitting in my grandfathers garage since 1991 and I just got it earlier last summer. I have redone the brake lines and was starting to work all the bad gas out by changing furl filters over and over. I had it running two weeks ago and changed the radiator hoses, fan belt, and antifreeze twice by accident. I then drove it back into the garage and now it won't start. It cranks and tries to fire if I hold the gas pedal, but never takes off. I replaced the carb, plugs, wires, starter, and now am out of ideas. I checked the spark at the plugs and it is sparking. Please if anyone has some help.
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I know this thread has multiple problems from multiple members, so I quoted the original question for clarity's sake.
As a relative Mopar noob myself I'm curious as to why no one mentioned the OP's ballast resistor. Usually that's the first thing everyone says with these particular circumstances- according to the OP, it was running, he fixed some stuff, it was still running, then he drove it into the garage. Now it cranks and "tries to fire" but doesn't "take off". Just from what I've gleaned from you members more knowledgeable than I, isn't that a typical ballast resistor problem? Tries to start an immediately dies?

Just trying to understand, dont want to start any arguments :)
 
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