TheGrimSpeed
Member
Its been a while, i ended up picking up a spare head 1969 year, what tools would i need to port i do not have an air compressor. Thank you
Slant Six head porting-to do or not to do
- Thread starter TheGrimSpeed
- Start date
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Hyper_pak
Old School Chrysler Fan
Don't do it!
Just add a turbo charger!
If you are fixed on the porting deal, there are a lot of thin spots, you will have trouble if you go to far.
You need an air compressor.
Go high, not wide.
Port intake to match head.
Work on casting flash and guide bosses.
Just changing to small valve stems and slightly bigger valve sizes will do 80 percent of the improvement.
Just add a turbo charger!
If you are fixed on the porting deal, there are a lot of thin spots, you will have trouble if you go to far.
You need an air compressor.
Go high, not wide.
Port intake to match head.
Work on casting flash and guide bosses.
Just changing to small valve stems and slightly bigger valve sizes will do 80 percent of the improvement.
TheGrimSpeed
Member
Turbo charger? that might be out of my price range
-Steve
-Steve
I got a NICE one off Ebay with built in waste gate for like 249 bucks. There are cheaper ones, but I was skeered. I haven't used it yet, but it's good quality and is both oil and water cooled. Sure, all the other details add up but do it a little at a time like I am.
/6 Matt
30 Degrees Crooked
First of all, what's your goals?
my68barracuda
Well-Known Member
How much do you have to spend?
For priority in doing work on a slant six head, in order of biggest bang for the buck
1) have the head milled to raise the compression. Measure the piston recession, cc the chambers and use an online calculator to get the static compression to 8.5 to 1 for a stock engine.
Machine shop cost, estimated 75.00 + gaskets
2) to do a little more while the head is off, remove the valve springs and install new valve seals. Have the existing stock valves re ground and have the machine shop do a good multi angle valve job and clean up the valve pocket.
Estimated cost $150.00
3) got a little more to spend, get a set of OS valves from Hughes and have the machine shop cut the seats for the new valves, install new valve guides, clean up the valve pocket, oversized valves probably 80.00 machine shop work probably another 300.00
improving the flow at the valve seat is where you need to start.
Working in the port arms or port bowl before improving the seat is wrong.
For a stock or nearly stock build the stock size slant valves are fine, they need a good performance seat profile.
For priority in doing work on a slant six head, in order of biggest bang for the buck
1) have the head milled to raise the compression. Measure the piston recession, cc the chambers and use an online calculator to get the static compression to 8.5 to 1 for a stock engine.
Machine shop cost, estimated 75.00 + gaskets
2) to do a little more while the head is off, remove the valve springs and install new valve seals. Have the existing stock valves re ground and have the machine shop do a good multi angle valve job and clean up the valve pocket.
Estimated cost $150.00
3) got a little more to spend, get a set of OS valves from Hughes and have the machine shop cut the seats for the new valves, install new valve guides, clean up the valve pocket, oversized valves probably 80.00 machine shop work probably another 300.00
improving the flow at the valve seat is where you need to start.
Working in the port arms or port bowl before improving the seat is wrong.
For a stock or nearly stock build the stock size slant valves are fine, they need a good performance seat profile.
Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
With no compressor, an electric die grinder is your best bet, along with a nice selection of burrs, stones and sanding rolls. Oh, and probably a collet extension. As said, stick with removing casting flaws and flash, smooth the ports but don't go nuts.
Slantsix64
Well-Known Member
i used a 3 inch carbide bit off amazon cost under 20 bucks, i didnt use a compressor i used a electric hand drill with the drill bit, it takes time with a electric bit, dont go to crazy just clean it up, by meaning clean it up you ll see once your in there casting flaws etc. Good Luck
TheGrimSpeed
Member
Thanks for all the replys, i want to gain some more mid range top end, the cheapest way possible.
TheGrimSpeed
Member
Do you have the part number of the bit you used?
When i got ny head back from the machine shop after exhaust valve hard seat installation, bronze valve guides and valve job I took a look and just couldn't put it on the block untouched. I disassembled it and did a little pocket porting, nothing too radical. Just reducing and smoothing the valve guide boss and easing the valve seat transition to the port. I also kinda back cut the valves by hand. Then gasket matched the intake/exhaust ports and manifolds where they mate. I used steel burrs in an air die grinder and think I had 10 hrs into it. I wish I had the opportunity to drive the 225 before I rebuilt it to make a comparison.but it hadn't run for 32 years before I got it and was locked up.
I did some pocket porting and replaced the valve guides when I had the heads off my mild 318 and it was good for a half second in the quarter.
I did some pocket porting and replaced the valve guides when I had the heads off my mild 318 and it was good for a half second in the quarter.
/6 Matt
30 Degrees Crooked
Get you one of these bits on ebay.
SG3L6 Exhaust Cylinder Head Engine Exhaust Porting Tool Tungsten Carbide Bur NEW | eBay
They're cheap and can accomplish most everything you're after. Just smooth all the casting flaws and the valve guide bosses. Dont get greedy. As said you can use an electric drill or you can use a pneumatic or electric die grinder with a 1/4" collet.
oldmodlover
Well-Known Member
Just be aware that the " fine" burrs are for steel.
The "coarse" burrs are for aluminum.
Either " will work" on either material but steel will kill the coarse ones rather quickly.
Since you have never used these, just go easy. They will remove a lot of material in a hurry if you just start hogging in.
If you do the porting yourself, you'll find out why machine shops charge the prices they charge. Be prepared to sit for long periods until your back aches & your wrists & forearms cramp up. It took me almost 4 months to do one of my V8 heads, & another 6 months to do the other. I almost put them in the corner & said forget this but I soldiered on & finished them. My philosophy is, "never again" I'll pay the bucks to let the pros do it.
/6 Matt
30 Degrees Crooked
You know it's funny, I never knew that about the course vs fine burs and I never noticed in the ad it even says "for softer cast material." I've been burning away with this bit for awhile with great results and minimal wear. Maybe cause I keep my grinding speeds slow and remove minimal amounts of material.
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