I have a 225 ci slant six. In the morning I pump the gas pedal 5 times, start the car, idles rough, idle smooths out after a couple mins, and let the car idle for about 10 mins. I step on the gas a few times (still in park) and the car cuts off. I start it again, then it's fine for me to drive to work. When I don't let it warm up long enough the car cuts off in the middle of the street. Today it cut off on me 5 times on the street. Also a couple times the car refused to start in the middle of the day, all warmed up already driven 30 miles. Is it normal for slant sixes to need a lot of time to warm up? How can I fix this problem? THANK YOU!
Slant six help needed!
- Thread starter eman
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bigus1949
Well-Known Member
it's all gonna be in the fuel delivery. first i'd change the needle seat in the carb, a,d the fuel filter. if that don't fix it i'd put a new fuel pump on it. if that don't do it then it's off to the sender in the tank.
Is your accelerator pump working in the carb?
Cycle the linkage and look down the carb (with the engine off) and look for a stream of gas to squirt down the carb.
The accelerator pumps wear out and don't give the necessary shot.
Cycle the linkage and look down the carb (with the engine off) and look for a stream of gas to squirt down the carb.
The accelerator pumps wear out and don't give the necessary shot.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Soo..what year of car? Does you car still have the points ignition system? This acts very much like a worn/misadjusted set of points. If that has not been checked, it is the first thing I would check.
LTOP
Active Member
Slant sixes had lousy carburetors. Always a "usual suspect" with any running problems. Also with the ethanol in the gas, the accelerators pumps go away faster.
cudajim
cudajim
If you've never changed the float in the carb you may want to. They get heavy from gas soaking into them (unless they're brass) and do all kinds of things you don't want. If nothing else it's good preventive maintenance and it's cheap.
2 Darts
A-body Addicted
Slant sixes are cold natured, in part due to the long intake runners. You may want to check the automatic choke coil and the damper on the exhaust manifold.
The choke needs to engage when the gas pedal is pressed firmly to the floor and released before turning the key to start. It needs to disengage when the engine gets warm. If the engine idles faster than it should when warm, chances are the choke is stuck. A quick prod of the gas pedal should disengage it.
The damper on the exhaust manifold is a flapper valve controlled by a metallic spring outside of the manifold. The shaft typically will corrode and eventually stick either closed, or in your car's case, perhaps, open. PB Blaster or KROIL applied to the shaft will help loosen it.
As always, check for vacuum leaks.
The choke needs to engage when the gas pedal is pressed firmly to the floor and released before turning the key to start. It needs to disengage when the engine gets warm. If the engine idles faster than it should when warm, chances are the choke is stuck. A quick prod of the gas pedal should disengage it.
The damper on the exhaust manifold is a flapper valve controlled by a metallic spring outside of the manifold. The shaft typically will corrode and eventually stick either closed, or in your car's case, perhaps, open. PB Blaster or KROIL applied to the shaft will help loosen it.
As always, check for vacuum leaks.
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