Slant Six Identification Help?!?!?!

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jkallen83

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hey yall,
I have a 1960 plymouth valiant v200. i've had a time trying to get parts for this car. for one, the wheel bearing went out, finally a parts store guy used digital calipers and a book and just "matched" the size to something to find something that would work, ended up being a sealed bearing which is what i had and apparently started in 1963, so ok someone changed the rear end sometime or another, not too big of a deal since i got it fixed now...

now my water pump is starting to rattle and i need to replace it. the parts store want to know which motor i have. i have checked the hose between water pump and head and its short and like 1" to 2" so 170? but the parts store says the computer says in 1960 there were no 170 engines only 225's. i cant find any numbers where everyone says to look. the only numbers are on the drivers side of the block.

does anyone have a way that i can check to see what size slant six i have?
 
The 3 numbers to the right of the 000000-___-?? on the drivers side will tell - 170-?? or -225-?? are the choices. IF still the original Engine it will be a 225.
Hope this helps.

Later,
Bruce B.
 
the numbers on the DRIVERS side as u said are

2121474-3 11 25


whats that mean?????
 
it could be a 170, do you have any pictures? how close to the bottom of the vent box on the engine side is the valve cover? there is a big difference between 1" of hose on the water pump & 2" of hose.
you are dealing with a 50+ year old car-- already the rear has been changed-- so do some searching & read up---
slant6.org has good info also, Lawrence
 
it doesn't matter becasue they are the same engine externally... (except by-pass hose length...

but under the number one spark plug there is a little pad maybe a 1/4" wide...

numbers will be there unless block was milled
 
slantsixdan said:
Nope. He's got a '60. The engine ID numbers were stamped behind the water pump in '60.
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really? huh.... good to know! he should check to see if it aluminum!

P.S. dan... do you have a pic of that location and also what year blocks/size did it run thru?

thx
 
On the water pump....doesn't really matter if it's a 170 or 225.....same pump. Your casting number is correct for a 170.
 
805moparkid said:
he should check to see if it aluminum!
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Nope. He's got a '60. All '60 Valiants came with iron 170s. No vehicles came with aluminum 170s. And only (some) late '61s through (very) early '63s came with aluminum 225s.

P.S. dan... do you have a pic of that location
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Not readily to hand. He'll find it in the '60 Valiant FSM.

and also what year blocks/size did it run thru?
Click to expand...

'60 170 and 225.
 
slantsixdan said:
Nope. He's got a '60. All '60 Valiants came with iron 170s. No vehicles came with aluminum 170s. And only (some) late '61s through (very) early '63s came with aluminum 225s.
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thats right... duh! i had one for awhile...
 
i work for pep boys in Tulsa, OK. I just looked it up and just about any slant six water pump will fit. Bosch p/n is 98051. That pump will fit every slant six (according to our program) from 1960 to 1975
 
64Lucy, in fact all slant-6 water pumps are interchangeable. There is no year cutoff at 1975. The 170 engine used a different water pump in 1960 only—it had a 3¼" diameter impeller, while the 225 had a 3½" impeller. For 1961 this was commonized to the 3½" impeller, which is compatible with the 1960 170 engine.
 
im assuming the "impeller" is the little fan on the water pump?

well, i bought a new water pump, put it on, and it was locked up tight. took it all back apart again, the propeller was about 1/8" too large. so with a side grinder we ground off 1/8" off each blade, put it back on and it worked PERFECT.

that explains alot, wasnt a hard fix, just aggravating considering i done put it all back together and thought i was done before i realized it wouldnt turn lol.


anyway, its fixed now.
 
Oof. You ought to have ground away the interfering material not from the impeller but from the block, which would have been a mix of metal and compacted corrosion/rust/crud.

Your way should work OK as long as you didn't create a substantial imbalance in the impeller.
 
that was the first thought was to remove from the block, there was a well polished place that wore the blades of the old water pump, but didnt have a way to get in that and grind that, maybe next time, if there is a next time, i will grind down the block cavity, it was easy to see the problem, just didnt have the stuff to get in there to take it off...

everything works great now tho, im very happy. now back to the outside body work MAYBE lol. i already got paint and paint guns and everything i need, just need a few good days to finish preparing the body without rain. lol
 
slantsixdan said:
64Lucy, in fact all slant-6 water pumps are interchangeable. There is no year cutoff at 1975.
Click to expand...

Right. I merely said to hell with looking up more than 15 years lol I figured that was enough evidence to say that they are almost all interchangable
 
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