Slant six upgrade 8 1/4 rear end?

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Slantsix64

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i wanted to upgrade my rear end i have a 1964 dodge dart gt 2 door slant six wanted to change the rear end to a 8 1/4 off of a 1968 dodge dart gt with a slant six 2 bbl would this work? let me know what you guys think thanks!!!!!!!!!
 
You sure its an 8.25 ?
1968 only came with a 7.25 or an 8.75

Unless it was Hemi car.....Dana
 
Grab everything then, including the driveshaft.
If it worked in the 68, it should work in your 64.
Does it have the big or small bolt pattern ?
If memory serves me correct, its big bolt.
Might want to grab the rims to.
 
Grab everything then, including the driveshaft.
If it worked in the 68, it should work in your 64.
Does it have the big or small bolt pattern ?
If memory serves me correct, its big bolt.
Might want to grab the rims to.

the thing is the drive shaft connects differently than mine my drive shaft bolts on to the tail piece its a push button 904 the one on the dart slips inside to the trans so the shaft might not work what do you think
 
The 8¼ is from a later car. It will bolt-in. I don't now e-brake cables will need to be juggled.

The 8¼ may be from a 73 or later disc brake car. If it is, it will have BBP wheels.

The 68 drive shaft will not fit your car unless someone has swapped out the output shaft on the transmission so that the originally installed trunion style u-joint has been replace by a cross (Spicer) type.
 
The 8¼ is from a later car. It will bolt-in. I don't now e-brake cables will need to be juggled.

The 8¼ may be from a 73 or later disc brake car. If it is, it will have BBP wheels.

The 68 drive shaft will not fit your car unless someone has swapped out the output shaft on the transmission so that the originally installed trunion style u-joint has been replace by a cross (Spicer) type.


oh okay ya im going to take my 13 inch rim and check out if it fits first before i buy it
 
There's an adapter out there for ball-and-trunion to U-Joint - search for it here and/or at slantsix.org
 
so i cant use the same drive shaft then? i have to shorten it

i cant remember the ball and trunion setup off the top of my head. pretty sure you still have a normal u-joint at the back where it attaches to the rear. if that is the case then yes you can use your driveshaft but you will have to shorten it.
 
i cant remember the ball and trunion setup off the top of my head. pretty sure you still have a normal u-joint at the back where it attaches to the rear. if that is the case then yes you can use your driveshaft but you will have to shorten it.

oh i dont think i would have to shorten it in the ball in trunion drive shaft goes in and out about two inches
 
[QUOit needsvshortenE=Slantsix64;1970506906]oh i dont think i would have to shorten it in the ball in trunion drive shaft goes d out about two inches[/QUOTE]

Yes It will need shorten weathet you use the ball setup or have it changed to a slip yoak that bolts up to your 904. No way around It if keeping the 904 with push button ttrans.
 
I think you will need to shorten it. That 2" travel is already needed for when the rear bottoms out.

The front ball & trunnion U-joint of your 64 driveshaft doesn't matter. The rear is a regular cross type, but may not directly fit into the 8-1/4 saddles if it is a smaller diameter. You can check PN's on rockauto and U-joint catalogs (Spicer) to determine ahead of time. In those catalogs, you can find adapter U-joints that have different diameter bearing cups on input and outputs, so could probably deal with above.

You will need to have your 64 driveshaft modified at a driveline shop and they probably have any U-joint adapter needed. If your ball & trunnion is bad, you can still find replacements (I found several cheap recently on ebay). At least lube and reboot it (can use VW split boot). Rather than search for one, a driveline shop might easier replace it with an in-line sliding yoke, as they often do on old Jeeps with those, though would cost much more.
 
One of the other sources for driveshaft modification is agricultural equipment repair shops. Another would be big rig type repair shops. When some of the car repair places wanted more than I cared to pay for a rear end rebuild, a local shop that took care of larger commercial vehicles did the job for about 2/3 what it would have cost otherwise. The shop I used also did driveshaft work in-house. You'll need to know all of the critical dimensions and may need the necessary parts, as the shop will not know the ins and outs of Mopars.
 
From what I recall, the 8.25 vs the 7.25 and everything else the same the drive shaft will be an inch too long and need to be shortened. Also its a different bolt pattern as all 8.25s are 4.5 inch patter vs your stock 4 inch pattern.
 
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