71DodgeDemon340
Well-Known Member
I know its period correct but its just an eye sore to me, why not just use the pinion snubber what chrysler designed from the factory, now thats period and factory correct lol
In the 70's, these were a must have. It was part of the look. The matter was not how effective they were. They were billed as the **** and you had to have a set on your car to be bad ***. Illusions and delusions, aren't they grand. I had a cool car and I got laid. What else could matter?
Had to have lightsmounted to the rear of them too.
This has been a great thread as I am looking at the same issue for my Duster. What size tires are you running front and rear? Rear shocks? Thanks.I have the stock snubber on an 8 3/4 rear. Clearance is about an inch. Still, certain driveways, certain angles and it still bangs. Leafs are not SS but 7 leafs on each side and they look sound. Maybe it's due to my car having the leafs "relocated".
I put the Lakewoods on mainly for the period correct look. I don't find them to be an eye-sore, just the opposite. Back in the 60's and 70's in Queens, NYC everyone ran them. I had them on my 1971 Road Runner back in 1971 (pic with my sister blocking the Lakewoods, lol). Today I have them on my 1972 Duster. Love how those yellow Lakewoods contrast with the Plum Crazy exterior! Thanks for the feedback and advice everyone. I do appreciate it.
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better slapper bars come with a U Bolt that goes over the top of the front segment of the spring
Yes, also has a J bolt going over the axle tube as well off the angled area near the tire in the pic.I think I recognize that style of bar. Does she come with an integral lower shock plate and mount up with the factory U-bolts?
And for your viewing pleasure............a shot from the "other side"...........Thx for the memory trigger,lol
And for your viewing pleasure............a shot from the "other side"...........
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In the late 80's, I briefly had a '68 340 dart, auto, 3.91 sure grip with traction bars. Biggest bias plies you could get under it. When you punched it, the whole car would come up evenly several inches, then take off forward. Always wondered if that's how traction bars were supposed to work...