Slot Mag Question

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middleagecrisis

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I'm doing a "Day 2" build on my '75 Duster and need some thoughts/advice on current wheel direction. I have a pair of 15X8 aluminum slot mags (uni-lug with inserts) that I would like to use in the back. I haven't found a manufacturer stamped on the rims. They are mechanically in great shape, but very oxidized. I don't have a matching front set and would like to run a 15x4.5" or 5" rim. I can't seem to find any used skinny slots, that are not ridiculously overpriced. My only other option is the US Indy Mag (U101) 15x5", which is highly polished. Is it possible to get the same highly polished look on my old 15x8's, or am I going to have two different finished wheels if I attempt to use old and new?
 
Go for this look




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I had good luck with Mothers Wheel Ball ( or whatever it is called). They polished up really nice. I lucked out finding a pair of 15x4 small bolt pattern Shelby Cal 500 wheels on Ebay for my Demon. You can see unpolished vs polished in the pics

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March 2022 with Skinny Slots and SS Springs.jpg
 
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If the finish is especially bad, I would get them Soda or Vapor Blasted first before polishing to save yourself some work.
 
71GSSDemon said:
I had good luck with Mothers Wheel Ball ( or whatever it is called). They polished up really nice. I lucked out finding a pair of 15x4 small bolt pattern Shelby Cal 500 wheels on Ebay for my Demon.
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I'm searching through old questions about the same thing being asked, should have done before posting. I'm thinking I want more of a dull look than the current Indy mag (new) option. I may have to see if I can find an old used pair. I've got the BBP, so makes my hunt a little easier.
 
middleagecrisis said:
I'm searching through old questions about the same thing being asked, should have done before posting. I'm thinking I want more of a dull look than the current Indy mag (new) option. I may have to see if I can find an old used pair. I've got the BBP, so makes my hunt a little easier.
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I like the satin very much, but the rear rims I picked up were polished already, so they had to match.
 
Slots were always my preferred choice, with centerline’s being a close second. The set I have on my car came from two different companies but look the same. All had a satin or brushed finished, but are heavily oxidized now. I’ll be very interested in seeing how this goes for you
 
My centerlines I use a 1000 grit scotch pad and soapy water. If they are badly pitted you can wet sand with 220,320,400,600,1000 grit then scotch pad. (lot of work).You may not have to go so course as 220 grit depending how bad they are. My centerlines I used 600 then 1000 grit pad because they were decent. Post#5 may be the answer then work them from there. I have never tried that.
 
Keep hunting for the 5" or 5.5" wheels, I lucked out and got a set of marketface, almost new 7.5" and 8.5" for $500, after searching for a few months. Just be patient, and ready to buy when they come up. I did have to drive a couple hours away, but it was worth the trip. I like the dull look too.
 
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I would think so, but it may be a better option to contact @CudaChick1968 about powder coating them to your desired finished. I don’t know about the surface finish on the polish but I suspect that they may be hard anodized and it may take something unreasonably aggressive to rough it to a satin finish.
 
I picked these 15x5.5 on Marketplace a while back. Spent a couple of hours with some 000 and 0000 steel wool and they polished up pretty nicely.

Before
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After
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@Frodee what would you recommend for a degreaser for my chassis and interior before paint? I was hoping for a spray on, let dry without a film or residue after. Least amount of wiping everything down
 
71GSSDemon said:
@Frodee what would you recommend for a degreaser for my chassis and interior before paint? I was hoping for a spray on, let dry without a film or residue after. Least amount of wiping everything down
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Well Eric I always use wax and grease remover and wipe it down real good before painting and wipe it before the wax and grease remover dries. MEK works good or Alcohol but I never trust anything that you just spray on and let it dry before painting.
Mostly bare steel, and all the work you have in it I wouldn't cut corners trying to make it easier. But just my 2 cents my friend.
 
Frodee said:
Well Eric I always use wax and grease remover and wipe it down real good before painting and wipe it before the wax and grease remover dries. MEK works good or Alcohol but I never trust anything that you just spray on and let it dry before painting.
Mostly bare steel, and all the work you have in it I wouldn't cut corners trying to make it easier. But just my 2 cents my friend.
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Thanks Fred. I was hoping for a miracle degreaser. I will do it right. Thanks buddy
 
71GSSDemon said:
Thanks Fred. I was hoping for a miracle degreaser. I will do it right. Thanks buddy
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Wish it was that easy but better to wipe the impurities off so the paint sticks well.
Also, a tip from experience on painting that much metal and being tubular is a pain trying to get enough coverage. Turn your spray gun air pressure down and limit the trigger so your not putting too much paint down all at once and narrow the spray pattern and slowly put 2 coats on in one spray instead of trying to recoat after a 15 minutes or so time frame. Again just what I would do and less fumes and over spray is defiantly a plus.
 
Where I started versus where I’m at with my 3.5” Fenton Gyros. I want a kind of dull polished so I’m looking for a way to dull up the new 8” Indy’s.

On the fentons for the heavy oxidation I started with 220 grit on a 5” orbital, minimal pressure and let the sander do the work. Then 400, 1000, 1500, 1500 wet by hand. Followed it up with a cheap wool buffer attachment and mother’s mag polish. For more of a polish I’d definitely say go finer than 1500, then maybe buff with buffing compound before the polish. I’m in no way an expert this is just what I’ve experienced.

I’m going to most likely steel wool the Indy’s tomorrow. If I do I report back with the results.


Thanks @TT5.9mag

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Those look great Turbo44Dart! I have a question for the group, slightly different, but not worth starting another thread. I found these 14" rims local that I believe are 6" wide, seller is verifying. Although it's not a 15" rim like I'd prefer, it would allow me to run the 215/75/14 tire size I prefer in front. Seller say's there a GM bolt pattern, but I thought these uni-lug could fit either a 4.5" or 4.75" by flipping the washer to the desired size. I've posted a picture of the back of the rim. I do have the BBP 4.5" hubs, will these work. He only is asking $50 a rim.
slots.jpg
 
ET Unilug IV mag wheel. These are probably the best of the unilug design wheels as far as safety is concerned, just retorque several times after running them until they take a full seat. They require their own ET specific lugs and washers, available in closed or acorn style lugs on eBay and other vendors.
E-T Uni Lugs & Washers
If theyr'e a 5.5 width, a 195-70R14 makes a nice front runner.
Yokohama Tires 110135603 Yokohama Y356 Tires | Summit Racing
 
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