That really is a solid idea... can you post up a closer photo of the interference?
SM Head Install... forgetting anything?
- Thread starter DentalDart
- Start date
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That really is a solid idea... can you post up a closer photo of the interference?
Bolts are like springs, they stretch. You are torquing the bolt. So follow the bolt manufacturers specs. And use their thread lube.
Who is this “most say” you are talking about? What are there credentials to over ride what ARP says about using their bolts?
Now you did clean all the coolant and oil from the bolt holes before this step, right?
Who is this “most say” you are talking about? What are there credentials to over ride what ARP says about using their bolts?
Now you did clean all the coolant and oil from the bolt holes before this step, right?
pishta
I know I'm right....
Bolts stretch by design x thou like a spring, and then they fail if stretched past that. The manufacture knows the rate at which they stretch so they publish the rate as a torque spec, follow it! A 180,000 psi bolt will stretch x thou with more torque applied than a 160,000 bolt (eg) so the torque spec will be higher for a higher strength bolt. 95 to 100 is a very small increase when it comes to actual rotation of the nut probably just out of the margin of error of a common torque wrench as well as the variance of the lube used. Now another question is: torque specs on an iron head differ from an Aluminum head? I would think the AL heads would require a retorque every so often as AL can compress? Ask an electrician about AL electrical wiring in compression lugs. The type of AL probably has been chosen for that fact.
Here are some close ups of the interference. Its the metal line that comes out of the back of the ps pump that hits the drivers side head. Now onto trying to look up which bolts go into water jackets lol.
Perfect photos.. thanks!
I think all the exhaust bolts are blind on the new aluminum heads. Check the holes that had studs installed on your original heads.
Phreakish
Well-Known Member
Follow Mfg instructions. If they say 100, go 100. Use the lubricant provided or as instructed.
I like to start lower, say 50, then 75, then final twice.
Welp this sucks... I dont know if I will ever buy arp head bolts again... first bolt going to 45lbs with a 6pt socket and it strips... got it to hold tight enough to keep going but when I got to the 100 ft lbs setting it stripped again... idk if I will even be able to get it off now... every other bolt is at 100 ft lbs...
If you think you need a redo and want to get that rounded bolt out, see if you can find a socket that operates on the flats like those old "metwrench" sockets. Twist sockets might also be an option.
Well... ARP bolt is a 14mm now... I banged a 14mm 6pt socket onto it and was able to get it out. I guess I'll just reuse a stock bolt there and give ARP a phone call tomorrow
Good go!
I've got a set for my SBM as well.. will check socket fitment before I install. Never had a bad experience with their fasteners previously.
You stripped the head of an ARP bolt. Were you using a 6 point socket and if so what kind. I know it’s a little tricky keeping your torque wrench angled right. Kinda one of the reasons I love my Snap-On flex headed torque wrench.
@pittsburghracer yes that is a brand new ARP head bolt, just took it out of the box. I have a craftsman torque wrench and was using a Husky 6pt socket.
NC Engine Builder
Grumpy Old Man
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True, you wont know any difference until the bolts flex and work harden until they snap off. Hopefully that doesn't happen on your heads. But it's very common on those.
I’m not a lover of those bolts either as they have a very stupidly designed head that is way to shallow. No reason for it either. Of coarse I use studs on my junk because it’s race only but you should see what we go through getting the nuts on and off especially when we machine them for bigger valve springs.
The socket is the issue. They are tapered, so shallow headed bolts will round off. The consumer friendly sockets have way too much taper in them. I have several i ground off for this very reason. I had very shallow flywheel bolts i needed to not slip, pitched socket in lathe and machined it off.
Also i have snap on sockets, they typically dont slip.
Also i have snap on sockets, they typically dont slip.
Everyone rounds a bolt head here and there. Bashed and gouged a hand. Just have to have a quality properly sized tool and be extra prudent in keeping it perpendicular, supported and pressed into the work as you use it, tightening or loosening.
aaronk785
Well-Known Member
On my speedmasters a .040 non tapered shim fixed the saddles perfectly.
Rockers tightened to 18 ft lbs. I ordered some new header bolts since a couple of my old ones have some not so perfect threads. They will be here Wednesday, it's raining really bad here so I won't be driving the car anyway.
Regarding the arp head bolts. Ive never had a problem with my sockets before but if a stripped bolt head is the worst of my problems with putting the heads on then I think I'm doing pretty good. At some point I'll order some different rockers, but for now these will be fine. I wonder how much more power the car will have now that I have the cnc sm heads... maybe I should have stepped up cam sizes... nope not going down that rabbit hole. I do need to invest in a new torque converter one day, my stock rebuild one is probably the weak link now.
aaronk785
Well-Known Member
Dental dart. How do you like Missouri compared to cali.
That said.. what are the rest of the specs on the SB?
Double chk that rocker shaft. Most have a notch in one end. If it does, it should be pointed down and to front on drivers side. Down and to rear on pass side.
@aaronk785 Ive never lived in commifornia, originally from Las Vegas. I love Missouri and doubt we ever go back to the West Coast besides to visit.
@4spdragtop I will check the rockers, I have teinstalled them on the same side they came off of every time I have taken them off.
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