Snow Ball #2 - 72 Swinger

[draginmopars]

the Tracks are closed for the winter here
So, no more tuning on the "More Door> http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=290433

Not wanting to leave it outside, it commanded for something to trade places

So, the 72 was pulled from the barn to give the 70 a hibernation spot.


We bought the 72 while, trying to find a roof to fix a 71

The owner had rebuilt the front end and painted under the hood
,then quit.

So,we made a deal and brought it home.

 

[draginmopars]

We knew it need quarter work

lots of attention

We started to put an engine and trans in

But in a years time, got a narrowed rear > To replace the 7 1/4 big bolt
and a set of welds, 10 x 15 and 4 x 15

 

[draginmopars]

We stripped it down, for a ride on the rotisserie

Set the engine in (from the bottom for motivation)

Think turbo


broke out the Needle Scaler
have found that under coating comes off easiest when it's cold (29* today)

Was WELL under coated
Don't know if I like it (nice floors)
or hate it, (MANY Hours removing it)

first item is moving the emergency brake cable bracket
to install front spring mounts, in the frame
first will install frame connector

 

[draginmopars]

This all snow balled
due to a head light switch
and checking out the rest of the wiring

 

[draginmopars]

got more of the under coating off

needed to check the welds at the torsion bar mounts anyway.
found a couple of small holes in the floor > no surprise

Will be cutting the floor to fit a trans safety shield
and since we decided to clearance the cross member for a A500 or A-518 trans

decided to add more support to the bar mounts
the frame connectors will tie into them also

got some parts cut today

 

[barbee6043]

looks like fun!!!!!

 

[adiffrentcity]

Awesome!

 

[75slant6]

Hey you ain't that terribly far! Might have to meet up with ya next time I'm pull a parting in Nashville!

 

[draginmopars]

Hey you ain't that terribly far! Might have to meet up with ya next time I'm pull a parting in Nashville!

32 miles south of Nashville

 

[draginmopars]

the 72 started life as a slant
manual steering
manual brakes
No A/C
perfect weight

first to go was the slant k-member

good timing for a member here
he posted looking for one
cause his had broken the lower control arm mount

gave it to him
he was happy, back on the road

We put a spool mount k-frame in it
cleaning up all the new front end parts
has front disc brakes

haven't nailed down what eng/ trans yet

first get the frame connectors in
fix a few spots in the passengers side floor
get the narrowed rear axle set up.

haven't even decided on a gear ratio yet... LOL

This one will be driven to the tracks.

interior was okay
needs headliner and carpet

got to figure out what dash panels were in the car

had some extras, but I found slight differences
they won't fit

more on that later..

 

[draginmopars]

here they are

top is 72 ?

$%^$%&* someone cut out the radio area

# 3051189
42981
die 677

botton is

# 3501602
42981
die 795

Does anyone know what the bottom one fits?

google was no help

thanks

 

[Kegan B]

here they are

top is 72 ?

$%^$%&* someone cut out the radio area

# 3051189
42981
die 677

botton is

# 3501602
42981
die 795

Does anyone know what the bottom one fits?

google was no help

thanks

Dart looks good so far, bottom appears to be the same as my '74 Scamp so I'll take a guess of '73-'76 A-body.

 

[draginmopars]

Dart looks good so far, bottom appears to be the same as my '74 Scamp so I'll take a guess of '73-'76 A-body.

Thanks

When the time comes
trying to decide what to do about the heater controls
if I don't find another correct part for the car.

the radio I can delete

 

[draginmopars]

we started working on the drivers side
removing under coat
inspecting floor

made the stiffing plates
worked around the emergency cable

made the plate shorter
due to the bulge in the frame
when checking frame connector position


oops.

all not lost
we will double plate it and plug weld the plates together
to clear the bulge in the frame.
stitch welded around the perimeter of the plates

 

[draginmopars]

Still chipping away at it> Undercoating

Decided to get it all out of the way
see what sheet metal need repaired

found two small places on the rear
of course the spare tire area needs some work
passengers front floor needs a section

got one wheel tub prepped to widen

a little body work to reverse the bulges into the tub
(one in the rear, two in the front)
for more tire clearance

trimmed the outer fender opening

move to the drivers front> missed a few spots

worked on the passenger side> ran out of time

 

[draginmopars]

got all the undercoating off.

A scaler (needle gun) will find pin holes, thin metal, the undercoating is hiding

started patching a few small areas.
one in front of the spare tire/ near shock area
and passenger side trunk extension

used some metal from an 70 dart trunk lid

waiting on some pre- fab sheet metal to repair the front floor sections,
spare tire area.

 

[draginmopars]

got most of the spare tire floor
spot welded in

 

[draginmopars]

finished making the front spring mounts
the frame connectors, will be welded into the front of the mounts

passenger side

drivers side

the largest hole is for the emergency brake cable to pass thru

then the cable end mount will be re-welded/ positioned on the side of both the inner front mounts

a small C-section will be removed from the frame rail
for the front spring eye to set up into

then will have access to the locating pins
to weld them inside/ outside the frame rails

install the front mounts/ weld in place

last is box in the c-section and end on frame connector

Right height will be +1"

cut two 3"+ spacers out of a cummins drive shaft ( was saving for the yoke)

Turned them on the lathe to 3"
then cut out 3/4 of it
to be used to box in the C-section

 

[draginmopars]

closed in the C-section

got to wait to finish welding the C material to the inside of the brackets
Want to paint between the frame and brackets
also weld the back side of the C to the frame
then install the brackets for final welding

next is to finish the frame connectors

 

[draginmopars]

another piece of the puzzle made

worked on the drivers side

made some tube passages for the fuel line
will be at least a # 10 braided line
was using the blue air line for mock up.

outriggers are welded to the connectors/ not the unibody yet
the connectors are tack welded temporary

until we see where a few cross members will be placed

next gotta flip it back over

cut the trans tunnel for 518 and shield clearance> cross members

 

[draginmopars]

point of no return today

after getting the 518 trans up near the dart floor

We cut the trans cross member
want to keep as much as possible

need a way to set trans height

to get to 2" between the drive shaft yoke to the floor
works out to 3* down at the engine centerline

We noticed that the crossmember is double plated between the bolt holes.

So, we cut pie slices out of the sides, to bend the cross member UP for clearance.

The top center of the cross member is cut, it will get 2 1"square tubing> bent to upside down U shape of cross member, welded into place

also noticed that the tubes where the bolts pass thru are not welded in, but are part of the double plate,
they will get welded into the cross member, where the tube and cross member touch

you can see the (cheater tool)/ height gauge tool in this pic

made it easier than constantly checking the angle finder
plus with it jacked up against the floor , helped keep the trans stable

 

[draginmopars]

got the lower cross member installed

mated a 518 bracket to the 68 trans mount
using a "B" body trans cross member
it had the needed off set to get the mount in the right location

added some extension plates for mounting lower
even used the 4 original mounting holes
still have to weld in the tube for the new bolt locations
to prevent crushing the cross member when tightened

 

[sireland67]

Keep up the good work, I always liked your builds.

 

[draginmopars]

Keep up the good work, I always liked your builds.

Thanks,
all ideas and comments are welcome
still don't know
what combo is going in

right now 340, 518, 8 3/4

We got a good deal on the Weld wheels
but they may not fit with the 53" flange to flange 8 3/4
rear wheels are 10" with 4 1/2" backspace

We usually run a 5" backspace wheel

really want the welds on there
may have to narrow another rear
if so, might as well be a dana.

Then the project "Snow balls" again

With the Dana
we can go Turbo...:burnout::burnout:

 

[draginmopars]

bent a matched pair of 1"tube for the trans cross member

and two others to tie into the floor and cross members
which also ties the outriggers into the sub frame connectors

now, that we know where the other cross members need to be,
we can trim the loops to fit/ position the cross members
and final assemble