So...I bought a stock 68 318...

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KnuckleDuster

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...turns out it's. 040 over with a. 284/.484 cam, pistons .007-.008 in the hole,aluminu,flat-top, two valve reliefs...heads are #4027183 freshly done with hardened seats. I do have some 72 U heads off a 340 that could be done...but thinking the money could be better spent on closed chamber heads. This wiil be for a DD 85 D150...Cast yourvotes for head choices and cheap HP!
 
That sounds like a bad cam choice for a 318 thanks going to be a daily driver in a truck.
 
That sounds like a bad cam choice for a 318 thanks going to be a daily driver in a truck.

Yeah,was in a 68 Satellite,guy wasn't impressed with the low end...but without the 318 smog heads it might be livable and sound good LOL...OK...it's torn down,so I am open to suggestions on a more torquey cam as well.
 
Yeah,was in a 68 Satellite,guy wasn't impressed with the low end...but without the 318 smog heads it might be livable and sound good LOL...OK...it's torn down,so I am open to suggestions on a more torquey cam as well.

I was originally going to go with a comp XE256 in my 318, apparently its a pretty good cam for low end. I ended up going with a 360 and have a XE268h bit bigger but still good low end.
 
here is the short story. 1965 300 L 413. 268 degree, .430 lift. stock 360 hp. very street able. got same MPG as a new yorker 340 hp.
 
I'd have to disagree with most of you on this 1, i have an 83 d150 shortbox with a factory 4 speed truck that had a blown /6 in it so i ripped it out, thru in my 318 bored .030 over with heavy TRW slugs in it with 360 J heads, along with the 284/284 / 484/484 cam in it, the reason it has no low end is probably because the cam was installed straight up, Knuckleduster degree that cam in at a 106 intake center line, add advance timing in it (i added 6 degrees in mine), get rid of the smog heads (my compression is right around 9.3 to 10) the little ***** will wake right up, Crackedback on this site gave me the suggestion!!!! night and day difference, thats a great cam but installed straight up will come in somewhere around 110 and its not a good location for this specific cam it'll be a dog turd at straight up on low end!!!!!
 
Here is a couple pictures of my truck and motor that i Was referring too.
 

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I'd have to disagree with most of you on this 1, i have an 83 d150 shortbox with a factory 4 speed truck that had a blown /6 in it so i ripped it out, thru in my 318 bored .030 over with heavy TRW slugs in it with 360 J heads, along with the 284/284 / 484/484 cam in it, the reason it has no low end is probably because the cam was installed straight up, Knuckleduster degree that cam in at a 106 intake center line, add advance timing in it (i added 6 degrees in mine), get rid of the smog heads (my compression is right around 9.3 to 10) the little ***** will wake right up, Crackedback on this site gave me the suggestion!!!! night and day difference, thats a great cam but installed straight up will come in somewhere around 110 and its not a good location for this specific cam it'll be a dog turd at straight up on low end!!!!!

You pretty much nailed it for most cam woes...

to the OP: if you weren't aware already, always always always degree your cam.
 
Did some checking on this engine this morning. Pistons are .075 below deck. Bores are. 3.938-3.939 ,which confuses me because all 8 pistons are clearly stamped. 040...wth?

Also, where is the p/n on an MP Purpleshaft cam?

Still debating on what to do about heads, budget for heads is $500 max. Any suggestions? Mill the 4027163's or work to my 915's. I just want a nice street driver on the cheap,not going racing in this truck, but may be pulling the Duster from time to time.
 
On Indy's website and magazine ads they sell rebuilt Aerohead cast iron heads for about $500 outright plus shipping......It might just fit the bill.
 
I would recommend using the Crane Z-268-2 cam with rhoades lifters..

We rebuilt the 360 in our 79 Warlock II with 9.5 compression, Crane 340 replacement cam, rhoades lifters, Wiand dual plane intake, Carter 625 AFB, headers and dual exhaust with Sonic Turbo mufflers. It ran great with lots of low end torque. We went from 9.5 MPG towing our car on a trailer to 11.8 MPG. I could also race the local 5.0 Mustang GT's off the line in low and be at the back of their fender by 45 MPH - they were pissed that a 4x4 gave them so much of a run...


After we sold it, the guy who bought it told my brother that he once went 4x4'ing with some of his Chevy buddies. One of them got stuck, and our old Warlock pulled him out of the mud effortlessly. The Chevy guys were not happy about being bested by a Dodge... LOL!

[ame]http://www.cranecams.com/154-157.pdf[/ame]
 
I do have some 72 U heads off a 340 that could be done...but thinking the money could be better spent on closed chamber heads.

The 340/360 heads will lower your compression by 1.2 if they replace stock 318 heads. I used them with a set of 10.5 pistons on a 318 and ended up at 9.2 and was able to run pump gas...


If your pistons have enough compression, then go for the 72 heads. :cheers:
 
if the heads on the motor are good you can mill them to achieve a 62cc chamber. bowl cleanup, port match, thin head gasket. after heads are installed check piston to valve clearance before picking a cam. 075 in the hole will not work with 360 heads. a 268H .454 cam with the rhoads lifter will wake up a low compression 318.
 
Thanks guys,keep the ideas coming...I am thinking port velocity is gonna be key,not volume, but that the smog heads are still gonna need some work...keeping my eye out for someone upgrading from 302's or 308's but time is an issue. I need to get it on the road soon.
As far as the cam,I'm tempted to redegree and leave it in there if I can get away with it..
 
Thanks guys,keep the ideas coming...I am thinking port velocity is gonna be key,not volume, but that the smog heads are still gonna need some work...keeping my eye out for someone upgrading from 302's or 308's but time is an issue. I need to get it on the road soon.
As far as the cam,I'm tempted to redegree and leave it in there if I can get away with it..

If you do, use Rhoades lifters, they will tame the cam down at low RPM for you.


You will want part #2018 available at Summit racing

http://www.summitracing.com/search?...tOrder=Ascending&keyword=Rhoades lifters 2018


Rhoades main page:

http://www.rhoadslifters.com/


Part numbers:

http://www.rhoadslifters.com/Pages/PartNumber.html


How they work, look at 2nd article:

http://www.rhoadslifters.com/Pages/Articles.html
 
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