Solid roller cam Vs Hyd flat tappet

-
RustyRatRod said:
Yes, I agree. Unless he's very careful. Maybe he can latch onto a friend or nearby member here who is more versed and can help him.
Click to expand...
or just swap the valve springs. it's not like the heads even need to come off to do that either. it's a no brainer surely?
i mean, how much is a set of springs compared to a roller can setup? he already has a cam and lifters that were fine up to now so reuse them and swap the springs in the new heads. and accept that he made a mistake but it won't happen again. why make that mistake even more expensive than it needs to be?
neil.
 
mygasser said:
or just swap the valve springs. it's not like the heads even need to come off to do that either. it's a no brainer surely?
i mean, how much is a set of springs compared to a roller can setup? he already has a cam and lifters that were fine up to now so reuse them and swap the springs in the new heads. and accept that he made a mistake but it won't happen again. why make that mistake even more expensive than it needs to be?
neil.
Click to expand...
Yup. He certainly could. Although it's certainly less money if he goes that way, when a roller is right, you cannot beat it for power or reliability. It'd be a no brainer for me for the roller. lol
 
Just swap to the right springs for the cam you WANT to run.
You really need to want t9 run a solid roller, and build the motor FOR a solid roller to make the investment worthwhile. You don't want a solid rolle4 bad enough.
Tho, if you DO HAVE a roller block, a hydro roller would be the way I would go.
(But you will STILL have to change the springs!)
 
Owen Diaz said:
Mancini Racing Aluminum Roller, 1.6 Ratio I was planning on getting these rockers I heard there good to pair with trick flow heads
Click to expand...
well, I USED to be a fan of aluminum rockers. They definitely have a lifespan.....or a cycle life. Here's a a Hughes after 5 summers. Granted, my spring pressures are 640ish, open.
rockers.jpg
thumbnail.jpg
 
Ironmike said:
well, I USED to be a fan of aluminum rockers. They definitely have a lifespan.....or a cycle life. Here's a a Hughes after 5 summers. Granted, my spring pressures are 640ish, open.
View attachment 1716325038View attachment 1716325039
Click to expand...


I was told that at some point Harlan Sharp was making those rockers. If so, the geometry is far from ideal.

It looks like you have a correction kit so that eliminates most of that.

I’ve run Crane rockers at 340 on the seat and 900 over the nose and never failed one.

Of course, if you could still get Norris stainless rockers they were the cats ***. And the geometry was better to start with.

It’s never very good with an offset rocker.
 
Not surprised the rocker broke. Look how thin the alum is, to the right side of the roller where the body has been machined for spring clearance. A great example of why it is best to use only steel or s/s rockers.....
 
Icetech said:
BTW.. if that's a 89 LA block it should have the bosses for hyd rollers.. i run a '85 roller LA using oem lifters and a hyd roller cam.. it works fine. plus lifters are like $100 for a set for oem and new ones are cheap also. You are basically doing exactly what i did.. i have regrets but it does work decently :)
Click to expand...
Yea I was gonna do exactly what you did only difference is I’m going to end up doing a hyd flat tappet instead of a hyd roller
 
Bewy said:
Not surprised the rocker broke. Look how thin the alum is, to the right side of the roller where the body has been machined for spring clearance. A great example of why it is best to use only steel or s/s rockers.....
Click to expand...
I agree. My next build 422 is going to use the older non SS Comp Cams Rollers in 1.5 ratio I have here new in box. With Smith Brother's push rods after we measured for length.
I have some Crane 1.6 new in box too and a second set light use 6 miles driving around. But would not want to use the Crane Gold Race eveyday
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top