Solid roller cam wiped out

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Andrew, the largest comp hydraulic roller is 242/248 549/544. That is one grind larger than the one I run. It can use the same beehive spring I run, which would be over 100 lbs. less pressure over the nose than your existing springs, which should be a lot easier on the rollers.
 
famous bob said:
If u check, the 829-16 are not oil fed like other brands (ford and gm) are. I went w/ the roller lifters that MRL sold for the r/b. do a little research. Unless they changed them in the last few!
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Stuck a camera in the bores. Still has cross hatch marks and light vertical lines. Nothing major though.
 
FWIW, a prudent move would be total tear down, eyeball the bearings, replace if need be, clean oiling passages.

Total cost if your doing the work is maybe bearings and a gasket set.

I know it's a hassle and a PIA.
 
rumblefish360 said:
FWIW, a prudent move would be total tear down, eyeball the bearings, replace if need be, clean oiling passages.

Total cost if your doing the work is maybe bearings and a gasket set.

I know it's a hassle and a PIA.
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That's what I did when a lifter failed. Pulled the whole engine apart.
 
Mrpatel said:
If it's coming out, it's going back in with more goodies. Thanks guys. Andrew
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I have decided to pull the motor and plan on having the eddy rpm heads and intake ported. Any suggestions are welcome on lifter and cam combos for the street for my 511. I will probably step up to the 2" step headers from TTI. Thanks! Andrew
 
Mrpatel said:
I have decided to pull the motor and plan on having the eddy rpm heads and intake ported. Any suggestions are welcome on lifter and cam combos for the street for my 511. I will probably step up to the 2" step headers from TTI. Thanks! Andrew
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Your spec sheet showed seat pressure, but what did it have over the nose? That looks like not enough spring load. The needles didn't seize. They flat spotted the pin and then the roller didn't roll.

Hydraulic rollers have the same issues.
 
yellow rose said:
Your spec sheet showed seat pressure, but what did it have over the nose? That looks like not enough spring load. The needles didn't seize. They flat spotted the pin and then the roller didn't roll.

Hydraulic rollers have the same issues.
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I think Mike told me 620? If that makes sense? I need to find out what lifters they are. Looks like comp supplied the springs with the cam and I would assume the lifters. Majority of the lobes have wear, but some lifters are still in decent shape.
 
Mrpatel said:
I think Mike told me 620? If that makes sense? I need to find out what lifters they are. Looks like comp supplied the springs with the cam and I would assume the lifters. Majority of the lobes have wear, but some lifters are still in decent shape.
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So 220 on the seat and 620 over the nose? If you have the spring part number and the installed height it's easy to figure out what the pressures are.
 
yellow rose said:
So 220 on the seat and 620 over the nose? If you have the spring part number and the installed height it's easy to figure out what the pressures are.
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Looks like they maybe "Howard's"? Mine have a #3 stamped in them like these do. I have never heard of them before.

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Look into running the rollers with pressure fed pin and bushings in place of needle bearings for the street. Any increase in lash indicates an issue with the solid bushing lifters. While the needle bearings disintegrate so quickly, its hard to catch it between lash checks.

I went top shelf on the roller lifters on my street motor for this very reason, and chose the Isky Red Zone solid rollers with bushing.

A complete teardown and cleaning is wisest, but clean out the oil pan at the very least if you are not going for a full disassembly. That's a lot of hard metal in the motor.
 
jbc426 said:
Look into running the rollers with pressure fed pin and bushings in place of needle bearings for the street. Any increase in lash indicates an issue with the solid bushing lifters. While the needle bearings disintegrate so quickly, its hard to catch it between lash checks.

I went top shelf on the roller lifters on my street motor for this very reason, and chose the Isky Red Zone solid rollers with bushing.

A complete teardown and cleaning is wisest, but clean out the oil pan at the very least if you are not going for a full disassembly. That's a lot of hard metal in the motor.
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How important is the lifter OD? The ones I have are .904" and the Red Zones are .903"
 
The .001 difference could be due to several things. Some places list the bore diameter it is used for. Chrysler = .904
Chevy = .842 etc... the actual size of the litter body maybe measured. .903 for an.904 bore.
 
I filtered the oil while draining it and it was clean, however I passed a magnet through the drain hole 3 times and found some shavings. Getting ready to pull the heads to see what the bores look like and also cut the filter.

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SGBARRACUDA said:
I would expect at least that much by looking at that lifter and the cam.
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my 354-260 @ .050, w/628 lift doesn't even run 620 lbs. open spring pressure, seems kinda high to me for a street cam ! just my thots??????????
 
Andrew, would you be money ahead to step up to Trick Flow heads, which come already ported, and just sell the Eddies?
 
qkcuda said:
Andrew, would you be money ahead to step up to Trick Flow heads, which come already ported, and just sell the Eddies?
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Really? I have heard that if you already own the eddys, than they are worth porting and will be as good or better as the trickflows? Are you suggesting just buying a set of stock 240 trickflows instead?
 
Depends upon what a good CNC porting job will run you. The trick flows are about $2500.00. I would think you could get $1,000.00 for your Eddies.
 
qkcuda said:
Depends upon what a good CNC porting job will run you. The trick flows are about $2500.00. I would think you could get $1,000.00 for your Eddies.
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Thanks Dave, it is a definite option and I do have someone already interested in buying them. Andrew
 
Mrpatel said:
Thanks Dave, it is a definite option and I do have someone already interested in buying them. Andrew
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Ive decided to have Randy Hodges from the Jordan Ontario area help me out with the rebuild. He has a nice shop and a local reputation for working on Mopars over the years. I'll let you know how I make out in the spring. Thanks for everyone's help and input. Andrew
 
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