Solid roller lifter choice?

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340Duster247 said:
Where can we get the MRL pro sport lifters now? I believe they are a BAM product? Who's the best to get them from?
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I can't think of who the dealers are for those, but I'd bet PRH will know.

I hope your block is tubed. If it isn't, it should be.

You ream the passenger side oil gallery to 5/8 and press in a brass tube. Then you peen over the tube where it breaks through into the lifter bore.

This stops all the leaks around the lifters. And that's a big deal.

You also need to increase the feed holes from that gallery down to the mains. I use 9/32 (.287) but some guys use 5/16. You do that to not only increase the size of the oil feed to the mains, you need to drill through that brass tube, otherwise you won't get any oil to the crank.

FWIW, I don't use a press fit on the tube. It's dumb. You should buy a reamer that is .0005-.0010 over MEASURED tube OD. Then you just slide the tube in by hand. Pressing the tube in is a PITA. Once you peen the tube it can never come out so it doesn't need press on it.

Then you use a set screw in the number one main to block the oil feed to the lifters, because you don't need any leaks on the drivers side lifter back either.

Or, you can drive a soft plug into the drivers side oil gallery in far enough that it goes past the feed hole coming up from the mains.
 
Rocket said:
https://bamrollerlifters.business.site/

Here is their website. A web search turned up a couple of hits including Hughes Engines. Other builders like IMM can also likely get them for you.
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Thanks. Yah I searched the net too. All I found was Hughes...the bam website was just a phone number from what I saw. Was just curious if anyone had other buyer options.
 
yellow rose said:
I can't think of who the dealers are for those, but I'd bet PRH will know.

I hope your block is tubed. If it isn't, it should be.

You ream the passenger side oil gallery to 5/8 and press in a brass tube. Then you peen over the tube where it breaks through into the lifter bore.

This stops all the leaks around the lifters. And that's a big deal.

You also need to increase the feed holes from that gallery down to the mains. I use 9/32 (.287) but some guys use 5/16. You do that to not only increase the size of the oil feed to the mains, you need to drill through that brass tube, otherwise you won't get any oil to the crank.

FWIW, I don't use a press fit on the tube. It's dumb. You should buy a reamer that is .0005-.0010 over MEASURED tube OD. Then you just slide the tube in by hand. Pressing the tube in is a PITA. Once you peen the tube it can never come out so it doesn't need press on it.

Then you use a set screw in the number one main to block the oil feed to the lifters, because you don't need any leaks on the drivers side lifter back either.

Or, you can drive a soft plug into the drivers side oil gallery in far enough that it goes past the feed hole coming up from the mains.
Click to expand...
No it's not tubed. This all started from another thread where everyone suggested I went solid roller with my combo...it's now turned into a rabbit hole wirlwind of new information, and hurdles to get there.
My engine is already together and assembled. Not sure if tubing can be done with the bottom half of engine Assembled. This mod is new knowledge to me and I'm just learning
 
340Duster247 said:
No it's not tubed. This all started from another thread where everyone suggested I went solid roller with my combo...it's now turned into a rabbit hole wirlwind of new information, and hurdles to get there.
My engine is already together and assembled. Not sure if tubing can be done with the bottom half of engine Assembled. This mod is new knowledge to me and I'm just learning
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Then be careful which lifter you buy. If your block isn't tubed, and the lifter body has a big cutout in it, that cutout can open to the top of the lifter bore and you lose oil pressure.

I hope that the builder at least opened up the feed holes from the oil gallery to the mains. I've seen those things that were way small...like Chrysler didn't finish drilling the hole all the way.

You have to check and verify everything at your level or you can get bit in the ***.
 
340Duster247 said:
No it's not tubed. This all started from another thread where everyone suggested I went solid roller with my combo...it's now turned into a rabbit hole wirlwind of new information, and hurdles to get there.
My engine is already together and assembled. Not sure if tubing can be done with the bottom half of engine Assembled. This mod is new knowledge to me and I'm just learning
Click to expand...
yellow rose said:
Then be careful which lifter you buy. If your block isn't tubed, and the lifter body has a big cutout in it, that cutout can open to the top of the lifter bore and you lose oil pressure.

I hope that the builder at least opened up the feed holes from the oil gallery to the mains. I've seen those things that were way small...like Chrysler didn't finish drilling the hole all the way.

You have to check and verify everything at your level or you can get bit in the ***.
Click to expand...
Thanks YR , so the lifters shaped like the 8043 and MRL pro sports are a bad idea?
 
I used the 8043's in my magnum block, to pushrod oil my trickflow heads. Probably have about 1000 miles on the engine so far, when I pulled the intake off to mess with some stuff, I checked how everything was doing. No weird marks, A larger roller would be ideal. But so far so good.
 
Toluene56 said:
I used the 8043's in my magnum block, to pushrod oil my trickflow heads. Probably have about 1000 miles on the engine so far, when I pulled the intake off to mess with some stuff, I checked how everything was doing. No weird marks, A larger roller would be ideal. But so far so good.
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I just looked at what I can find on line. I thought all those Endure-X lifters for Chrysler's had an .810 wheel. I need to order a new Comp catalog. That doesn't look like the cheap Comp and Crane stuff.

I used to have the Wall Of Shame at my shop. I hung all the broken, junk crap up there so everyone could see it. There were plenty of lifters hung up there. They all had .750 wheels and huge oil bands cut out of them.

My situation was a bit different. Most guys don't shift at 8k plus and make power there. But...the small wheel can be an issue long before that RPM.

I did hear that Comp and some others we using a reduced base circle core for some of their milder roller grinds. That right there helps with the smaller diameter wheel.
 
yellow rose said:
I just looked at what I can find on line. I thought all those Endure-X lifters for Chrysler's had an .810 wheel. I need to order a new Comp catalog. That doesn't look like the cheap Comp and Crane stuff.

I used to have the Wall Of Shame at my shop. I hung all the broken, junk crap up there so everyone could see it. There were plenty of lifters hung up there. They all had .750 wheels and huge oil bands cut out of them.

My situation was a bit different. Most guys don't shift at 8k plus and make power there. But...the small wheel can be an issue long before that RPM.

I did hear that Comp and some others we using a reduced base circle core for some of their milder roller grinds. That right there helps with the smaller diameter wheel.
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Here's one from some damage earlier this year. But not the rollers fault, all mine before I got the trickflow heads and learned that with solid roller good pushrods are needed lol. Second picture is when I was swapping heads and checking everything else to make sure it was all dandy.
IMG_20190427_180620197.jpg
IMG_20190502_192118262.jpg
 
yellow rose said:
I'd have to see a picture of them.
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My BAM lifters have the .750 wheel. There not the ones discussed above. They have an oil band/pushrod oiling.

However, the following is a FWIW/FYI from Crane Cams.
The last sentence is what your paying attention to.

MECHANICAL ULTRA-PRO™ ROLLER LIFTERS
The Ultra-Pro™ Series is without a doubt the best roller lifter available today. They are engineered to operate flawlessly in ultra-high spring pressure environments, and designed for use with the most radical camshaft profiles. The bodies are FEA-engineered to provide an optimum balance of superior strength at minimum weight. Crane's race-proven Bearing-Focused™ oil system features small channels in the lifter body to lubricate the needle bearings. The roller wheel/bearing/axle combinations are optimized per lifter diameter (i.e. .904” diameter lifter has an .815” diameter wheel).
 
Thanks. I was looking for a part number. No worries. I also have a set.
 
Comp cams in mine. Solid body so no oil pressure loss. No bushings, no blocked passages. 16 hours of grinding on the block for clearance for the guide bars. PIA
 
12swinger said:
View attachment 1715413094
It’s one of the more extreme measures I’ve went through on a mopar
Metal everywhere!
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I see a B3 geometry correction kit on there!!!!!

Very nice!!!!

I would like to mention that the actual Chrysler measurement for pushrod adjuster protrusion is 9/32 (.287) +/- .050 and yours look like they are out a quite a bit more.

What happens is there is an oil feed hole drilled through the rocker right under where the adjuster goes through. That hole SHOULD (never does) line up with a hole in the shaft. When the valve is on the seat, the hole in the shaft SHOULD line up with the hole in the rocker, and full pressure oil SHOULD squirt out of the hole and onto the adjuster to cool the adjuster and into the cup to cool and lubricate it.

That's one reason to use a HV pump and keep the pressure up at idle...if not, you can kill an adjuster jaunt warming the engine.

If that cup is too low (pushrod is too short) the oil doesn't get into the cup and bad things happen.

Honestly, I never learned this until I went over 240 pounds on the seat and about 650 over the nose. At lower spring loads, there is enough oil splashing around in the rocker boxes to lube everything.

Also, when the cam lobe gets agrees side enough you can start to have issues.

Just and FYI and my .02 you didn't ask for.

Love the B3 Kit.
 
yellow rose said:
I see a B3 geometry correction kit on there!!!!!

Very nice!!!!

I would like to mention that the actual Chrysler measurement for pushrod adjuster protrusion is 9/32 (.287) +/- .050 and yours look like they are out a quite a bit more.

What happens is there is an oil feed hole drilled through the rocker right under where the adjuster goes through. That hole SHOULD (never does) line up with a hole in the shaft. When the valve is on the seat, the hole in the shaft SHOULD line up with the hole in the rocker, and full pressure oil SHOULD squirt out of the hole and onto the adjuster to cool the adjuster and into the cup to cool and lubricate it.

That's one reason to use a HV pump and keep the pressure up at idle...if not, you can kill an adjuster jaunt warming the engine.

If that cup is too low (pushrod is too short) the oil doesn't get into the cup and bad things happen.

Honestly, I never learned this until I went over 240 pounds on the seat and about 650 over the nose. At lower spring loads, there is enough oil splashing around in the rocker boxes to lube everything.

Also, when the cam lobe gets agrees side enough you can start to have issues.

Just and FYI and my .02 you didn't ask for.

Love the B3 Kit.
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I made a mistake and ordered the pushrods exactly a .100 to short, due to a measuring device I didn’t realize I was to add a .100 to the overall measurement. Who makes vernier calipers like that?
So I just used them for a mock-up so I could check oiling issues. Stupid mistake on my part, not to mention $350 for .105” wall Trend pushrods. Good catch.
I’m not showing you anymore pics! Lol

F9A96D78-70F1-453B-96B3-0AA33F875D45.jpeg
 
96138ADE-6235-41C9-9039-F86CFF66951C_zpsjl4sosf1.jpg


One of the last remaining pieces from my stock block W5 era.... got them from Brian at IMM. Believe no grinding was required, no oil psi loss, dropped right in.
 
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These are what I’m running. Even though they have a solid body, I’m glad I checked with oil pressure, as one lifter was puking pressure at max valve lift, and I was able to move it, and it was fine in another location.
828-2 comp cams

B9615A63-D531-4473-9AB3-9F0B665A6AB7.png
 
WHAT YR SAID
why I recommend additional oil throug the pushrods
and for higher spring pressure ball and ball pushrods and cup adjusters
and larger adjusters. cups (ford size with 3/8 or larger pushrods
depends on your springs and revs but you can't go too big
 
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