some info on a 440

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OK sorry for the confusion it a 67 dodge pickup with a 426 that was bored out to a 440 is what I was told I already bought the truck and brought it home. Tried to drive it last night but my battery died. When I had another battery a few days ago it turned over and ran good I didn't getto drive it cause I think the trans is low on fluid. I was told by the owner that he bought it with a 318 and he devoted he wanted something bigger so he found a 440 motor out of a 68 charger but later after a friend of his saw it and said it was a 426 bored to a 440. He never new why it would the motor would overheat and the buddy of his said cause of the thin walls from being bored.
 
Im looking to install a temp gauge cause he always use the stock gauge. I was mainly asking for help to identify the block so I know for sure what it is. I'll try and post pictures I'm using my phone so not sure how to do it from my phone. Thanks for the help guys
 
martin53 said:
Im looking to install a temp gauge cause he always use the stock gauge. I was mainly asking for help to identify the block so I know for sure what it is. I'll try and post pictures I'm using my phone so not sure how to do it from my phone. Thanks for the help guys
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Depends on which app you're using-which one do you use to access FABO?
 
OK got an app that let's me add pictures. The picture of the tag by the distributor the top says v42 and bottom you can kinda see. I got it running yesterday and was having trouble finding neutral and couldn't really see if my transmission needed fluid. Looks like I have a leak by the speedometer cable. The truck drives in reverse and second but not drive and while in second and reverse I have to accelerate pretty hard for it to go. Hope I can gat this truck driving soon.

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According to a google search, that is indeed a 426 wedge block. You mess with it anymore? There's any number of reasons for overheating, but if the block is really overbored .070", then it would certainly be more sensitive to that potential. How hot does it get anyway? 210? 230? boiling over?
 
I have to wait to get a temp gauge to see how hot its getting. But for now I was looking to get my transmission going. We tried getting it going this weekend and it was really weird cause we would try to put it in neutral and it would reverse I'm gonna have to check the linkage but it drives low gear and reverse but won't drive in drive. Could this still be cause of low fluid also I was wondering how to set my kickdown linkage
 
The tranny problem may not be a problem at all but a combination of misadjusted shift linkage and kickdown linkage
I think kickdown is misadjusted cause you said you have to give it a lot of gas for it to move
 
Tend to agree with that statement...sounds like it's out of adjustment if you're selected neutral but moving in reverse. If it's not correctly adjusted, the selector valve in the valve body won't route fluid to the correct passages. Also of note on the so-called kickdown linkage, that linkage actually tells the transmission where the throttle setting is. If it's maladjusted and driven for extended periods, it can actually hurt the internals...it can cause flaring between shifts, excessive line pressure, failed upshifts...in a nutshell, it must be adjusted properly before routinely driven.
 
OK last night I put a battery on it and my shifter linkage was way off so i took the floor panel off inside the cab so I could shift with my hand. It shifts into all gears now but still have to rev high to move in drive in drive. The throttle valve linkage is rigged up on there what's the proper way to hook it up. I tightened it like it is in the picture and it runs OK but still have to rev high before it drives

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There's a proper way to rig that linkage and I don't think you're supposed to lock down the rod that way. On your kickdown linkage bracket just out of the picture to the right, there should be a hole in the bracket, and a hole in the bellcrank, to properly rig it, you mock the throttle wide open, then adjust the linkage so a pin of some sort (I think I used a big cotter pin or drill bit) will go through both holes. Then you release the throttle, and the throttle pressure rod (aka, kickdown linkage) will need to be able to come forward all the way.

All of this is borrowed from memory, so it may be a little off...but I seem to recall the method is in any Haynes/chiltons manual for any vehicle with that engine/trans combo...so if you can find a manual for that series of pickup, it's probably in there.

Did you adjust your bands yet? Is the fluid level correct?
 
How do I adjust the bands and the fluid is good red and does not smell burnt. I'm kinda new to working on transmissions.
 
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