Some more head questions

[1930]

I know that the stock valve sizes are 1.62 and 1.36. I have the 1.70 1,44 engnbuilder valves and now that I have them to compare with my original valves I can see that there really is not much of a difference in size.

Does this mean that I can use the existing valve seats and just have them re-machined to accept this slightly larger valve? Or will I still be looking at all new valve seats?

Will these valves call for un-shrouding once installed?

Can someone give me a figure for the stock inside diam of valve guides and or their procedures for checking for wear. I have the small hole measuring tools but not sure what the tolerances are.

Thanks

 

[teringer]

intake/exhaust valve guide bore should be .373 the stem /guide clearance is in the valve stem dia. .371 ect

 

[1930]

intake/exhaust valve guide bore should be .373 the stem /guide clearance is in the valve stem dia. .371 ect

Trying to understand what you are saying here, you say .........intake/exhaust valve guide bore should be .373..........ok got it

Everything after that I am at a loss.

 

[LTOP]

Guide checking procedure: If you can wiggle the valves back and forth in the guides without the springs installed, they need knurling ( which few guys really want to do anymore) or replacement.

As far as your valve size and installation, I have the same ones sitting in a box, so I am waiting to see what advice you get on that.

 

[1930]

Guide checking procedure: If you can wiggle the valves back and forth in the guides without the springs installed, they need knurling ( which few guys really want to do anymore) or replacement.

As far as your valve size and installation, I have the same ones sitting in a box, so I am waiting to see what advice you get on that.

As far as I know Knurling is a no-no, a half *** way or band-aid to the problem. I will have the guides that are worn either re-placed or sleeved.

Just a heads up and thanks for adding to this

 

[1930]

Guide checking procedure: If you can wiggle the valves back and forth in the guides without the springs installed, they need knurling ( which few guys really want to do anymore) or replacement.

As far as your valve size and installation, I have the same ones sitting in a box, so I am waiting to see what advice you get on that.

BTW were you dissapointed with the sizes. Did you think they would be bigger ( the faces ),on our heads there is a heck of alot more room in between the valves. Also a picture of a re-built head that I plan to maybe go with cause at this point alot of the money has already been spent.

Just to show that there really is not a big difference in the sizes.

 

[krazykuda]

You may need to have hardened seats added to the exhaust valves anyway if it was built before unleaded gas.

A good head guy should be able to install the larger valves.

 

[krazykuda]

As far as I know Knurling is a no-no, a half *** way or band-aid to the problem. I will have the guides that are worn either re-placed or sleeved.

Just a heads up and thanks for adding to this

Yes, knurling is a band aid. I wouldn't recommend it.

 

[LTOP]

The reason I bought the valves was only a little bit about size. I liked= that they are high quality, stainless valves. I know that .080 is not a dramatic improvement in size, but frankly, what is the difference between a 1.88 valve and a 1.92 valve? Only .040, yet guys will go out of their way to get 1.92 heads. The bigger issue is porting, since that seems to always be the bottle neck. Since I am using a blower, .080 in valve size means even less. But every little bit helps. I plan on doing my blower head by porting and using the Engnbldr valves and 340 springs, but not milling. I can always mill later if I decide to go Au Naturale'.

 

[1930]

You may need to have hardened seats added to the exhaust valves anyway if it was built before unleaded gas.

A good head guy should be able to install the larger valves.

I could be wrong but I think hardened seats were first installed on these heads in 72 and after so I would be good to go since my stuff is all hyd. ( 81 up )

 

[krazykuda]

I could be wrong but I think hardened seats were first installed on these heads in 72 and after so I would be good to go since my stuff is all hyd. ( 81 up )

Yes, if you have 81 or up, you're good. :thumleft:

 

[66fs]

intake/exhaust valve guide bore should be .373 the stem /guide clearance is in the valve stem dia. .371 ect

Valve guides in stock Chrysler engines, /6 or small block up to Magnums or big blocks, should be .374 to .375 inches ID. Intake stems typically measure .3725 t0 .373 inches OD. Exhaust stems typically measure .3715 to .372 inches OD. Knurling works fine for stock lifts if done correctly, and will last hundreds of thousands of miles on a street motor.

 

[robertob]

Yes, if you have 81 or up, you're good. :thumleft:

I don't think there are hardened seats installed into the head, rather the valve seat area is flame hardened. I could be wrong but that's what all the later heads I have seen look like.

 

[krazykuda]

I don't think there are hardened seats installed into the head, rather the valve seat area is flame hardened. I could be wrong but that's what all the later heads I have seen look like.

That could be so. Regardless, if the engine is from 81, the seats should be able to run unleaded.