Some setup advice required.

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1967formulaS

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Hi guys,
Well I'm just about ready to start spending some more $$ on my barracuda.
My aim is to get a consistent mid 10's Street and strip car, but I want to keep it period looking, with the exception of shocks and tyres.
A couple of my mates have just completed drag challenge down here is Australia and I think I'd like to have a crack at it next year.
Also I absolutely smoked a new mustang at the lights last night, by at least 4 car lengths. :) he wasn't a happy camper.
I did get a little loose shifting hard from 2Nd to 3rd, so it's time to get it sorted.
My car is a factory 67 barracuda formula S big block 4 speed car.
I pulled all the numbers matching/date coded stuff out and I'm running a fresh build 440 with some goodies which is approx 550Hp, hooker fenderwell headers, hemi 18 spline box, Ram clutch, Hurst super shifter with reverse lockout, Dana S60 with 4.30 gears.
I'm running 275/60r15 Street tyres on rear and 165r15 on front. I have about 1/2 inch clearance between tyre and leaf spring currently.
I'm still using the factory leaf springs and torsion Bars.
My idea, and let me know if I'm on the right track is the following.
1. 6 cylinder torsion bars ( which ones?)
2. 002, 003 SS springs with longer shocks
3. Maybe a spring relocation kit to the rail?
4. Pinion snubber -
* suggestions on pinion angle for this application.
5. Tyre choice. I love the idea of leaf spring radial class. So maybe a nitto drag radial??
6. Weight reduction. Put a hemi hood or similar on it. That factory one weighs **** loads.
7. Shocks. Maybe Viking double adjustables?

FB_IMG_1510358288017.jpg
 
Nice car.
Viking double adjustable shocks are a must on all four corners.
I'd use an Asassin bar on that...except I know it's not period correct. Don't care for pinion snubbers, especially with a stick. Not a fan of SS springs either.
If you don't have an adjustable clutch with a sintered iron disc, get one.
Skip the nittos. lol at an MT tire (tyre down under).
If you can find the correct MP torsion bars I'd use those rather than /6 bars, but if you have to, they will work.
 
Hi guys,
Well I'm just about ready to start spending some more $$ on my barracuda.
My aim is to get a consistent mid 10's Street and strip car, but I want to keep it period looking, with the exception of shocks and tyres.
A couple of my mates have just completed drag challenge down here is Australia and I think I'd like to have a crack at it next year.
Also I absolutely smoked a new mustang at the lights last night, by at least 4 car lengths. :) he wasn't a happy camper.
I did get a little loose shifting hard from 2Nd to 3rd, so it's time to get it sorted.
My car is a factory 67 barracuda formula S big block 4 speed car.
I pulled all the numbers matching/date coded stuff out and I'm running a fresh build 440 with some goodies which is approx 550Hp, hooker fenderwell headers, hemi 18 spline box, Ram clutch, Hurst super shifter with reverse lockout, Dana S60 with 4.30 gears.
I'm running 275/60r15 Street tyres on rear and 165r15 on front. I have about 1/2 inch clearance between tyre and leaf spring currently.
I'm still using the factory leaf springs and torsion Bars.
My idea, and let me know if I'm on the right track is the following.
1. 6 cylinder torsion bars ( which ones?)
2. 002, 003 SS springs with longer shocks
3. Maybe a spring relocation kit to the rail?
4. Pinion snubber -
* suggestions on pinion angle for this application.
5. Tyre choice. I love the idea of leaf spring radial class. So maybe a nitto drag radial??
6. Weight reduction. Put a hemi hood or similar on it. That factory one weighs **** loads.
7. Shocks. Maybe Viking double adjustables?

View attachment 1715111840
-Like the billboard call outs.
 
Also I absolutely smoked a new mustang at the lights last night, by at least 4 car lengths.
My car is a factory 67 barracuda formula S big block 4 speed car.


1. 6 cylinder torsion bars ( which ones?)
2. 002, 003 SS springs with longer shocks. As YR mentioned, the cal tracks or Assassin set up on sliders really do well. You can use sliders with the S/S springs. No one will see them.

3. Maybe a spring relocation kit to the rail?

4. Pinion snubber -
* suggestions on pinion angle for this application.

5. Tyre choice. I love the idea of leaf spring radial class. So maybe a nitto drag radial??

6. Weight reduction. Put a hemi hood or similar on it. That factory one weighs **** loads.

7. Shocks. Maybe Viking double adjustables
Smoked a Mustang huh? Good job, stay safe while doing such. I heard horse smoke causes cancer... LMAO!

1 All /6 bars are the same. You can not swap in another bodies bars. The A body has the thinnest bars.
MP has thinner bars for drag racing.

2: The springs are designed for the cars total race weight. Use with the Viking shocks. Contact PST a vendor here.

3: The inboard spring relocation kit is OK. The kit that moves the springs into the frame rail provides more room than the off set hangers do.

4: Pinion snubber is OK. Some have had good luck, others not so much.

5: I found the Micky Thompson tires very good.

6: A weight reduction everywhere is a huge help. IMO, and what I’m doing is not only the hood but also fenders, bumpers, trunk lid. On the race ride, doors as well and Lexan windows. But that is pretty extreme for a street ride.

7: Yes. Contact PST, a vendor here.
 
Move the springs to the frame rail with a 3” relocation kit. I use to run 002/003 SS springs into the 9’s but Caltracs would be a much better option. Definitely double adjustable shocks all the way around.
Radials don’t work well with sticks. You would be much better off with a bias ply Et Street, Quick Time Pro or Et Drag. My car always worked the best with a stiff sidewalk Et drag 28x10.5W.
If you decide to move the springs in with SS springs, I have a set of double adjustable Vikings for the rear that I’d sell. I ran them one season.
 
Move the springs to the frame rail with a 3” relocation kit. I use to run 002/003 SS springs into the 9’s but Caltracs would be a much better option. Definitely double adjustable shocks all the way around.
Radials don’t work well with sticks. You would be much better off with a bias ply Et Street, Quick Time Pro or Et Drag. My car always worked the best with a stiff sidewalk Et drag 28x10.5W.
If you decide to move the springs in with SS springs, I have a set of double adjustable Vikings for the rear that I’d sell. I ran them one season.



440dartsport you need to clear out your IN BOX.
 
Nice car.
Viking double adjustable shocks are a must on all four corners.
I'd use an Asassin bar on that...except I know it's not period correct. Don't care for pinion snubbers, especially with a stick. Not a fan of SS springs either.
If you don't have an adjustable clutch with a sintered iron disc, get one.
Skip the nittos. lol at an MT tire (tyre down under).
If you can find the correct MP torsion bars I'd use those rather than /6 bars, but if you have to, they will work.
I`v had two diff. cars that ran 10:20`s, one was (3600 lbs) on s/s/ springs, the other (2400lbs) had ladder bars, neither had double adjustable shocks, matter of fact they weren`t adjustable at all !
 
Front end has a lot of time in it. IMO, the front needs to be lowered so you have some drop. Cut the bumpers if you have too.
 
4.30 gears might be steep with a 28" 275/60 tire. You'll just have to see what RPM it traps at in the 1/4 mile and go from there.
The M/T pro radials are awesome tires, might want a bias ply slick with the stick shift though as some else already mentioned.

What cylinder heads, intake, camshaft and carb are you running?
 
I'm running the 383 closed chamber heads all rebuilt with some port work done.
Lunati solid cam, lifters and matching springs.
1.6 roller rockers.
Edelbrock Victor 440 intake and currently an 850 Holley but have an old 1050 that I want to try. Might be ok with this big thing on the street since its a stick car??
I will probably go with Trickflow heads or similar next year... See how it goes.

15115897328091483825263.jpg


1511589831295768583258.jpg
 
What engine, trans and diff were you using? Tyre size?
hemi / 727, w/ either 14 or 16x32 slicks/002-003 s.stock springs/ dana 60. the track sucked back then, the few times it really hooked up, it carried the front wheels to the second gear change. LASTING MEMEORIES !" The other was a 406/ 400 turbo sb vega / 9' ford/ 14X32 M-T`S / ladder bars.
 
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