Sources for Chrysler type wire terminals
- Thread starter Mattax
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shanker
Well-Known Member
Thank you, I have a one like this, only mechanical...
Good question. Probably should have posted a link or two about the crimpers and crimping.
Several options depending on the wire sizes to be crimped, the terminals, and price you are willing to pay.
Lets Talk Open Barrel Crimpers - Reviews and Discussion
Some more in here with mixed results discussed.
American AutoWire crimping tools
shanker
Well-Known Member
This thread has turned into quite the resource. I'm currently going thru another ignition switch on a Mopar (Duster this time). Last time I bought all the pieces to build a weatherpack connector which worked, but will not slide thru the column for future replacement 
. This time I'm just wanting to rebuild the OE connector.
What type of terminals are these? I've gone thru a bunch of pictures on google images and have yet to find one. Sorry for the bad pic,
. This time I'm just wanting to rebuild the OE connector.What type of terminals are these? I've gone thru a bunch of pictures on google images and have yet to find one. Sorry for the bad pic,
Lots of good info in this thread, I'm redoing my 67 rally harness here.
Rally dash redo
More good info, I believe try molex as a term?
I am reusing all connectors like those by splicing/soldering.
Rally dash redo
More good info, I believe try molex as a term?
I am reusing all connectors like those by splicing/soldering.
This thread has turned into quite the resource. I'm currently going thru another ignition switch on a Mopar (Duster this time). Last time I bought all the pieces to build a weatherpack connector which worked, but will not slide thru the column for future replacement
What type of terminals are these? I've gone thru a bunch of pictures on google images and have yet to find one. Sorry for the bad pic,
View attachment 1715648936
shanker
Well-Known Member
Thanks! Molex is a manufacturer that makes products for every industry. It'll take a while to dig thru their website. I know that these terminals are still made, as when you buy a new ignition switch, these connectors are supplied in the connection that comes with it.
shanker
Well-Known Member
I did some more digging and a local to me store (International Electronics in Corpus Christi where I've been able to source just about everything else I've needed) did not have any of this size in stock, but suspects that they're made by Amphenol
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
Great info. I'll just add a few things:
I use a $17 crimper I found at Fry's Electronics (common in CA). It correctly rolls the crimps over onto the wire, when lucky, but I also solder each connection to be safe, plus clean and solder the factory terminals when I have them out of the holders since solder protects from corrosion.
I have the proper Delphi thin-blade removal tool, which makes it much easier to release the female terminals (~$8 when ordering 56 Terminals online). Last pass, I misplaced it so had to fall back to using a small screwdriver and a little dollar-store saw blade which just fits. You could bend the tip of a small screwdriver to make to work better, and dedicate it to terminals. To release male terminals, I use either curved-tip needle-nose or special pliers with V-channel tips I found at an industrial site (literally rusting on the ground).
Many home appliances use the same or similar 56 terminals. Before you scrap your washer or dryer, you might strip off some w/ wiring. Particularly good when you need a 90 deg terminal or a piggy-back one. Also, I found that Mopar continued many 1960's connectors into the later 1980's (even 1990's?) in their Dodge motor-homes and utility trucks. I recall finding some twin-lock turn signal switches in the junkyard in good condition. Learn how to release the pins and not snip the wires at the steering column, as most gomer mechanics do (then "fix 'er" with a mass of butt-crimps).
I use a $17 crimper I found at Fry's Electronics (common in CA). It correctly rolls the crimps over onto the wire, when lucky, but I also solder each connection to be safe, plus clean and solder the factory terminals when I have them out of the holders since solder protects from corrosion.
I have the proper Delphi thin-blade removal tool, which makes it much easier to release the female terminals (~$8 when ordering 56 Terminals online). Last pass, I misplaced it so had to fall back to using a small screwdriver and a little dollar-store saw blade which just fits. You could bend the tip of a small screwdriver to make to work better, and dedicate it to terminals. To release male terminals, I use either curved-tip needle-nose or special pliers with V-channel tips I found at an industrial site (literally rusting on the ground).
Many home appliances use the same or similar 56 terminals. Before you scrap your washer or dryer, you might strip off some w/ wiring. Particularly good when you need a 90 deg terminal or a piggy-back one. Also, I found that Mopar continued many 1960's connectors into the later 1980's (even 1990's?) in their Dodge motor-homes and utility trucks. I recall finding some twin-lock turn signal switches in the junkyard in good condition. Learn how to release the pins and not snip the wires at the steering column, as most gomer mechanics do (then "fix 'er" with a mass of butt-crimps).
Seem to be missing the point of this thread.
Chrysler generally did NOT use 56 series connectors.
AND SOMETIMES
the female Packard 56 terminals do not properly fit into the Chrysler connector housings and visaversa.
This is due to differences in terminal height, length from tip to retaining tab, etc.
the Packard 58 series terminals are much closer match.
Chrysler generally did NOT use 56 series connectors.
AND SOMETIMES
the female Packard 56 terminals do not properly fit into the Chrysler connector housings and visaversa.
This is due to differences in terminal height, length from tip to retaining tab, etc.
the Packard 58 series terminals are much closer match.
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
I bought this when I did my upgrades along with other wires I sourced out.
100 FEET AUTOMOTIVE PRIMARY WIRE 14 GAUGE AWG HIGH TEMP GXL 10 COLORS 10 FT EA | eBay
100 FEET AUTOMOTIVE PRIMARY WIRE 14 GAUGE AWG HIGH TEMP GXL 10 COLORS 10 FT EA | eBay
Could be a good deal.
If it is GXL it will be pretty obvious. But AFAIK SAE wire gage and AWG are same nominal diameter but different density.
How is this relevant to wire terminals? Because when you go to crimp a terminal made for AWG onto SAE wire sometimes the wings are a biut too long to allow a good airtight crimp of the wire. Not a big deal. Just something to be aware of and either clip the wings a little or try a different size terminal.
Likewise when dealing with GXL vs TXL or general purpose primary, you may find the insulation is so thick it requires some experimentation to get a good crimp.
If it is GXL it will be pretty obvious. But AFAIK SAE wire gage and AWG are same nominal diameter but different density.
How is this relevant to wire terminals? Because when you go to crimp a terminal made for AWG onto SAE wire sometimes the wings are a biut too long to allow a good airtight crimp of the wire. Not a big deal. Just something to be aware of and either clip the wings a little or try a different size terminal.
Likewise when dealing with GXL vs TXL or general purpose primary, you may find the insulation is so thick it requires some experimentation to get a good crimp.
Really they are 58? Always use 56!="Mattax, post: 1972250265, member: 29156"]I already have a collection of 56 series. Waytek Wire had min purchases, so I bought terminals by the bagful about 20 yrs ago.
Now I'm looking to build a collection of Chrysler types.
Looks like most are the same as some Ford and GM 'Packard 58'.
Standard lists the tin-plated brass female terminals as CG49 for 16-14 ga, and CG36 for
20-18 ga packages of 10. Chrysler part number 384601 regardless of wire size.
Eastern Beaver linked above has the wider 3/16" terminals, like used on the headlights, but not plated. The originals on my '67 were plated.
They also have crimps for splicing. That's handy, even if soldering.
Bought this removal tool kit on flea bay works great so far. Does most styles.View attachment 1715231143[/QUOTE]
You gotta link for that kit?
shanker
Well-Known Member
I just wanted to update this thread on my quest to find the Pin & Socket terminals that are used in the Turn Signal Wiring & Ignition Switch wiring.
I suspect that the smaller size is what's commonly referred to as the Molex .093 and the Larger Size is the Molex HCS-125
I ordered a bunch of each and will update this thread with pictures when I get them in.
https://www.molex.com/kr/contacts/images/Wire-to-Wire Connectors(Rev.1).pdf
I suspect that the smaller size is what's commonly referred to as the Molex .093 and the Larger Size is the Molex HCS-125
I ordered a bunch of each and will update this thread with pictures when I get them in.
https://www.molex.com/kr/contacts/images/Wire-to-Wire Connectors(Rev.1).pdf
shanker
Well-Known Member
Here's something of "hopefully" useful evidence I provide.
On the Left in this photo is one of the OEM Ignition Switch Barrel Terminals removed from the housing. I used my crappy micrometer and from the bottom of the retaining clip to the tip of the barrel (which is the area for contact) is .309.
On the one I removed from a NEW Standard Motor Products US88 Replacement ignition switch the same measurement is .220. That's roughly %30 percent less contact area for the terminals. Not good, but I guess Standard Motor Products considers it good enough. I tried tracking down their supplier for these terminals and came up with nothing after spending too many hours trying. I realized it was futile to track down an inadequate part.
Just for reference. On my 74 Ramcharger, I rebuilt the entire connection using Metri-Pack terminals and everything is good. The downside to that is that the Metri-Pack housing is too big to slide thru the opening in the Steering column collar, so in order to remove it all the terminals have to be removed from the housing before pulling the switch out of the steering column.
The entire reason why I'm going down this rabbit hole is because on my wife's Duster 360, I've got an intermittent no-start and tracked it down to poor connectivity inside the ignition switch connectors.
On the Left in this photo is one of the OEM Ignition Switch Barrel Terminals removed from the housing. I used my crappy micrometer and from the bottom of the retaining clip to the tip of the barrel (which is the area for contact) is .309.
On the one I removed from a NEW Standard Motor Products US88 Replacement ignition switch the same measurement is .220. That's roughly %30 percent less contact area for the terminals. Not good, but I guess Standard Motor Products considers it good enough. I tried tracking down their supplier for these terminals and came up with nothing after spending too many hours trying. I realized it was futile to track down an inadequate part.
Just for reference. On my 74 Ramcharger, I rebuilt the entire connection using Metri-Pack terminals and everything is good. The downside to that is that the Metri-Pack housing is too big to slide thru the opening in the Steering column collar, so in order to remove it all the terminals have to be removed from the housing before pulling the switch out of the steering column.
The entire reason why I'm going down this rabbit hole is because on my wife's Duster 360, I've got an intermittent no-start and tracked it down to poor connectivity inside the ignition switch connectors.
shanker
Well-Known Member
So Mouser Electronics really came thru and had my terminals in under 36 hours!
and I do believe that I found perfectly suitable replacements for rebuilding the ignition wiring harness terminals.
They appear to be exactly the same as the OEM terminals.
Molex Part numbers are:
18-12-1602 for the Socket Terminal
18-12-2602 for the Pin Terminal
Something I noticed about the Standard Motor Products terminal housing vs. the OEM is that they modified the depth of the catch where the terminal stays are to try and get them to ride on the pin better. No matter what they did though, using the terminals from whatever supplier they're getting them from, still doesn't overcome the ~30% loss in contact area.
and I do believe that I found perfectly suitable replacements for rebuilding the ignition wiring harness terminals.
They appear to be exactly the same as the OEM terminals.
Molex Part numbers are:
18-12-1602 for the Socket Terminal
18-12-2602 for the Pin Terminal
Something I noticed about the Standard Motor Products terminal housing vs. the OEM is that they modified the depth of the catch where the terminal stays are to try and get them to ride on the pin better. No matter what they did though, using the terminals from whatever supplier they're getting them from, still doesn't overcome the ~30% loss in contact area.
Glad those look like they will work.
@Thanatos340 found the Molexes he bought were a little loose in the turn signal housing and was going to try Mate-N-Loks
see this post What are these Connectors called??
I don't know what he found out.
As long as the terminals mate to each other, I think that's more important than how snug they are in the plastic.
The only thing about being loose in the housing is if the terminals back out rather than mate.
I had that with a GM SI type alternator connector as well as on the Ford type coil connector on my Jeep. Push on the connector and the terminal backs out but is engaged just enough to sort of work. Finally figured it out when back probing.
@Thanatos340 found the Molexes he bought were a little loose in the turn signal housing and was going to try Mate-N-Loks
see this post What are these Connectors called??
I don't know what he found out.
As long as the terminals mate to each other, I think that's more important than how snug they are in the plastic.
The only thing about being loose in the housing is if the terminals back out rather than mate.
I had that with a GM SI type alternator connector as well as on the Ford type coil connector on my Jeep. Push on the connector and the terminal backs out but is engaged just enough to sort of work. Finally figured it out when back probing.
shanker
Well-Known Member
I’m sure you’ve heard of MrHeaterBox (guy out of Canada that restores HVAC boxes, steering columns, and sells HVAC rebuild kits. The guy who runs that company recently posted on Facebook the he uses the Molex .093’s when rebuilding the turn signal wiring connections. I’ll update this thread when those get delivered.
I agree - this should be a sticky!
carguy47
Well-Known Member
I love using their wire. They have multiple sizes and striped wire. Just got done with my dash harness using their wire.
Machmeter1
Well-Known Member
I ordered several parts here:
Packard Connectors – CE Auto Electric Supply
Packard Connectors – CE Auto Electric Supply
shanker
Well-Known Member
So one of the terminals that there are only a few of on our mopar's are these double wire terminals.
I recently re-did the dual ballast wiring on a 75 Duster 360 and that happens to be one of the spots these terminals are used.
I do have some new double terminal terminals I've purchased, but using the ASTRO 9477 do any fello FABO BrainTrust members know where I could get the correct die's for my crimper that work with these or if such a thing exists?
I recently re-did the dual ballast wiring on a 75 Duster 360 and that happens to be one of the spots these terminals are used.
I do have some new double terminal terminals I've purchased, but using the ASTRO 9477 do any fello FABO BrainTrust members know where I could get the correct die's for my crimper that work with these or if such a thing exists?
I don't specifically recall. By the time I bought the terminals specifically made for two side by side wires, I had already purchased the copy of the Packard crimper for them.
The two wire terminal connections I made before getting those terminals were not an issue with the Astro as best I can recall. In fact on the reproduction wire harness, that's what M&H had done - made the two wire junction with a standard terminal.
It may be worth experimenting with some extra terminals and some wire scraps. Maybe the innermost position on the H jaws?
Maybe first eyeball the fit like this
Packard type crimper made for the wider F-crimp.
see Lets Talk Open Barrel Crimpers - Reviews and Discussion
Reproduction harness (about 15 years old).
My repair. It took a couple tries using this terminal (standard width crimps). Note the feed wire is SAE 16 ga and the wire continuing to the voltage regulator is 18 ga.
Factory '67 Ignition Start & Coil feed junction. I dont have a pic of the original for the other one. Now I'm curious if it also the terminal was made for a wire pair even though it has the smaller gage wires.
And here's the same terminal junction on the M&H repro harness
My repair. It took a couple tries using this terminal (standard width crimps). Note the feed wire is SAE 16 ga and the wire continuing to the voltage regulator is 18 ga.
Factory '67 Ignition Start & Coil feed junction. I dont have a pic of the original for the other one. Now I'm curious if it also the terminal was made for a wire pair even though it has the smaller gage wires.
And here's the same terminal junction on the M&H repro harness
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I agree this needs to be a sticky!!!
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