Sources for Chrysler type wire terminals

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Mattax said:
Reproduction harness (about 15 years old).
View attachment 1715752173

My repair. It took a couple tries using this terminal (standard width crimps). Note the feed wire is SAE 16 ga and the wire continuing to the voltage regulator is 18 ga.

Factory '67 Ignition Start & Coil feed junction. I dont have a pic of the original for the other one. Now I'm curious if it also the terminal was made for a wire pair even though it has the smaller gage wires.

And here's the same terminal junction on the M&H repro harness
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Thanks....I guess I can either try the different dies (for the sake of not waiting around I ended up making the connection work with a regular terminal) or I can buy the real tool (which I more than likely will).

Mattax, you're commitment and knowledge contribution to the topic of wiring harness restoration and repair is truly commendable.
 
@halifaxhops has mentioned that he has used a grinder (maybe a dremel or file?) to reshape crimper dies.

I think my commitment comes out of bad experiences and getting tired of BSers. When I buy something that's supposed to be the correct part or a 'reproduction' and then see its not the same, doesn't fit right, or doesn't last as long, then its time to find the right part or at least know what Chrysler did and what is different abou the new parts.
 
I tried looking for the female pin type connectors for the Rally dash plug with no success, anyone know of a supplier/part #?
Thanks

20220118_153530.jpg
 
Is that as close as can be found? I thought @RedFish may have mentioned something about those terminals.
 
For reference, a couple items from TE AMP catalogs which relate.
From the Faston F-crimp terminal catalog. Faston terminals are have distinct cut outs and I've not seen them on our cars but the crimp info is the same.
Visual Quality Check
upload_2022-1-29_10-53-24.png

upload_2022-1-29_10-54-16.png



Current and Physical Strength of Crimps
from Tyco Electronics AMP catalog
upload_2022-1-29_10-58-9.png


upload_2022-1-29_10-57-29.png

Note that the test current is not the recomended or the maximum.
It tells us how hot the crimp is allowed to get after being subject to that current continuously for long period of time.

upload_2022-1-29_11-4-0.png
 
4spdragtop said:
I tried looking for the female pin type connectors for the Rally dash plug with no success, anyone know of a supplier/part #?
Thanks

View attachment 1715855069
Click to expand...

MoparMike1974 said:
.093 Molex
.093 Connectors
Click to expand...
I tried these pin-type connectors and found they easily pulled out of the brass connectors after you get them in. I have a custom dash with aftermarket gauges and could not bring myself to cut the new under-dash wiring harness. So I removed the plastic piece, put them together one at a time and heat shrinked them to keep them from falling apart. Looking at 4spdragtop post it looks like he is looking for the other side of the pin connectors? That might work. Just wanted to share my experience.
 
I tried a molex style, but stuck out way too far on the round plug. Can't trim plug down as there would be next to nothing grabbing the pin on the board.
I'm still messing with it lol. Not sure if it's worth aggravation to change connectors on rally plug.
Lelo Dart said:
I tried these pin-type connectors and found they easily pulled out of the brass connectors after you get them in. I have a custom dash with aftermarket gauges and could not bring myself to cut the new under-dash wiring harness. So I removed the plastic piece, put them together one at a time and heat shrinked them to keep them from falling apart. Looking at 4spdragtop post it looks like he is looking for the other side of the pin connectors? That might work. Just wanted to share my experience.
Click to expand...

20220123_162203.jpg
 
Lelo Dart said:
they easily pulled out of the brass connectors after you get them in
Click to expand...
if what you're talking about is the lack of retension in the plastic housing, yes, Redfish said that's how they're designed.
Lemme find it
Here, See post 56
Rally dash redo
 
Last edited:
Mattax said:
if what you're talking about is the lack of retension in the plastic housing, yes, Redfish said that's how they're designed.
Lemme find it
Here, See post 56
Rally dash redo
Click to expand...
20211128_162806.jpg

No this is what I'm working with. Didn't want to cut my new under-dash wiring harness to make connections. If I left the plastic piece on the connectors would just fall out.
20211128_163145.jpg

Sorry not A body
 
shanker said:
Just for reference. On my 74 Ramcharger, I rebuilt the entire connection using Metri-Pack terminals and everything is good. The downside to that is that the Metri-Pack housing is too big to slide thru the opening in the Steering column collar, so in order to remove it all the terminals have to be removed from the housing before pulling the switch out of the steering column.

The entire reason why I'm going down this rabbit hole is because on my wife's Duster 360, I've got an intermittent no-start and tracked it down to poor connectivity inside the ignition switch connectors.
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I'm looking at doing the same thing (Metri-Pack) with my Duster for the same reason (intermittent no-start issue). I know this is an old thread, but any part numbers and/or pictures on what you did?
 
DionR said:
I'm looking at doing the same thing (Metri-Pack) with my Duster for the same reason (intermittent no-start issue). I know this is an old thread, but any part numbers and/or pictures on what you did?
Click to expand...

sorry I don't have any part numbers...I just went to a local industrial electrical supply house and purchased a 6 way Metri-Pack connector then all the individual terminals and seals, it was like 12-14 dollars total IIRC. Be forewarned though, the 6 terminal connector won't fit thru the collar, so you'll have to have a pin removal tool to remove the pins, slide the harness thru, then plug them back into the housing.
 
shanker said:
sorry I don't have any part numbers...I just went to a local industrial electrical supply house and purchased a 6 way Metri-Pack connector then all the individual terminals and seals, it was like 12-14 dollars total IIRC. Be forewarned though, the 6 terminal connector won't fit thru the collar, so you'll have to have a pin removal tool to remove the pins, slide the harness thru, then plug them back into the housing.
Click to expand...

No worries, I bought some parts from Mouser. I went with 2 three pin plugs and used the unsealed ones. I also bought some extra 2 pin plugs and a bunch of extra connectors so I spent more like $50 after shipping.
 
Mattax said:
Those are all 56 series and are easy to find.
Using the factory p/n, looks like Mouser also carries some Packard 58 terminals.
Aptiv Series 58 Automotive Connectors | Mouser
Click to expand...
Thanks for the great information here. The Packard 58 from Mouser was a perfect fit for the headlight connector on my ‘73 Dart. Headlights were intermittently going off at night which is not acceptable!
Note the burnt brown (formerly light green!) insulation on the original terminal. Very overheated. It _is_ 50 years old. Chrysler simply didn’t design them to last this long.
You guys saved me a lot of hunting and trial and error finding the right terminals.

IMG_7263.jpeg


IMG_7264.jpeg
 
I would slide the wire into the terminal more. Insulation should be butting up against first set of tangs. Wire still looks burnt there also.
Good luck.
moparstan said:
Thanks for the great information here. The Packard 58 from Mouser was a perfect fit for the headlight connector on my ‘73 Dart. Headlights were intermittently going off at night which is not acceptable!
Note the burnt brown (formerly light green!) insulation on the original terminal. Very overheated. It _is_ 50 years old. Chrysler simply didn’t design them to last this long.
You guys saved me a lot of hunting and trial and error finding the right terminals.

View attachment 1716151074

View attachment 1716151075
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Good points. It also looks like that might be a double wide terminal. I don't know if the insulation has to to be butted up but that's a good way to make sure its far enough up. The conductor looks pretty unoxidiized. If the insulation still has some softeness I wouldn't worry about the color damage. Making the wire too short and it will then be strained.

There's some posts about making crimps. I'm to tired to search them out right now.

If you want a good connector, look in the for sale or place a wanted ad. Pretty sure thats how I got an undamaged replacement for my '67.

A good way to take the load off the headlights is to make (or buy) a relay harness. It also takes the headlight load off of the alternator output wiring.
 
I put this simple 'Packard 58' terminal kit together for my Dart build. I'll use them for the firewall forward harnesses and the bulkhead connector.

After lots of searching I ordered them from Elecdirect.com because I could verify they were Delphi terminals and housings, and they sell quantities I can work with.

My replacement engine compartment harness (awesome reproduction!) didn't come with the window washer pump wire, it was an option that wasn't in the blueprints M&H used to build the Dart harness. The connectors and housings will be correct from the dash to the pump.

Additionally, I've been ordering OEM quality TXL, GXL, and SGX automotive wire from Wirebarn.com. I use these because they have high heat ratings for the engine compartment, come in color assortments and are made in the US.

I'm sharing all this because this forum has been a great resource for me while rebuilding my Dart.

Packard 58 Terminal Kit.JPG
 
Here's a long shot question before I break out silicone casting compound and try to make a set in my backyard. Anyone have a source for the male connectors on the ignition modules and voltage regulators? Or failing that, a manufacturer PN for the terminals used in the wiring side?
 
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