Speedmaster heads revisited.
- Thread starter pittsburghracer
- Start date
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I won’t do a set like this for a customer and especially not for 800.00. Unless I’ve found something which I may have when you get over 315 everything (shape) is so critical. Way to much double checking on my bench. I’m done after I clean up what’s already set up. I have two more sets of Speedmaster heads of mine that I can slowly port during race season and I’m up to three sets of LS heads.
I doubt if I will have them finished for this year the way I’m going. When I finish up these last four jobs I gotta start on my bodywork. My 408 only has one year on it and I have a nice stock 360 crank roller shortblock on an engine stand if needed. That was going in my sons car but I canceled out on that.
John has been awesome in communicating with me on updates with these SM heads he’s been working on for my 340 Duster. The fact he took the time to check out the springs and determine that the numbers will be right in line with my cam was above and beyond what most others would do.
Looking forward to rolling into our car show and cruise nights this season with a little bit of extra
Looking forward to rolling into our car show and cruise nights this season with a little bit of extra
Well todays little project will finish up this head for now. Time to drill the two rocker gear oiling holes through the brass tubing I installed in the oiling bolt hole (1/4 inch). Then I’ll grind down the brass tube on the top of the head on the pushrod tubes dressing it up some, then this customer wants the spark plug holes laid back some to expose the spark plug better. Then I’ll set this one aside and jump on porting the other head.
John, got a question for you, do you change out the exhaust valves to the Ferrea F6104 valve in a race version only or bare heads ? The reason I ask is that I have a set of Speedmaster heads complete with hyd flat springs { black Friday 2-3 years ago}. I will be changing out the springs, retainers for solid roller set and was wanting to know if I should upgrade the exhaust valves as well?
These Speedmaster valves look very nice. I have had one and maybe another customer next week that went with Ferrea exhaust valves. In my race Edelbrock heads we have always just used the Edelbrock exhaust valves, still do. In that 1000.00 order I placed this week I did order two sets of Liberty exhaust valves because it looks like they no longer stock Edelbrock valves. It was a May or June delivery date. We ran the stock Edelbrock 2.02 valves in everything for years too only hurting one. A 1/4 inch piece broke off in number 3 and got stuck in top number 6 piston. So basically I’m saying if they want to pay 200.00 for exhaust valves that’s up to them.
Awesome numbers, thanks for sharing.
208cfm @ 0.300 lift - that's impressive.
Would love to see a flow test on a speedmaster casting with just some bowl work and a valve job if you ever have the opportunity.
208cfm @ 0.300 lift - that's impressive.
Would love to see a flow test on a speedmaster casting with just some bowl work and a valve job if you ever have the opportunity.
Ok guys thi
I and others really did a step by step in the sticky Speedmaster posts. Lots of flow tests done during different steps.
I and others really did a step by step in the sticky Speedmaster posts. Lots of flow tests done during different steps.
Ok guys this head is winding down as I’m about ready to tube and jump on the other head. If there are any questions please post them up BUT please read the whole post as it may have already been answered. (This is why I try to stay focused and not post about my uncle Ted) I’ll give this a quick dip in my kerosene tank and wait till the other one is done then I with lap some valves lightly, and get them cleaned up for a vacuum test then spring setup together. Some reminders are if you tube don’t forget to drill your 4 total oiling holes for both heads and take a small 1/4-3/8 sanding roll and remove the burrs in the bolt hole. I always take a scribe and put it down in the drill oil holes to break off any burrs. Next if you open up the spark plug holes like in these pictures install two valve just in case the grinder get away from you. You are just gaining a little access to the plug and doing some radius work. You don’t have to go crazy. Next try to remove the factory burr around the valves of course with valves in.
Well I tubed the other head and ported all four intakes and two head bolts over to the tube. Sure goes a lot quicker when you aren’t stopping to take pictures and measurements for a post. I have a hot sausage hoagie with green peppers and extra cheese calling my name. Time to eat.
Nice work. Speaking of pics, how about a shot of that Hogie!
Looks good for a bargain basement head.
dusterbing the peace
FABO pyrite member
Is it already a long reach spark plug? Or do they not make them for the thread and seal style on these heads?
Never used one. I use Autolite racing plugs.
Man, all these threads that PBR does on these speedmasters makes me really hope they do the Black Friday sale again this year.
Yeah, almost makes me want to cancel my TF order... Almost... don't wanna get to the back of a line again though
I’m going to add this to the post because I had a customer ask about it after he got his heads back. A friend told him he was going to get to much oil
Up top so I sent him pictures and told him how to fix it. I bought a pack of probably 20 from a eBay seller but lots of places would probably stock 1/4-20 brass set screws. To ease drilling I would double nut them so I could hold them in a Vice and drill them on my drill press. I drilled the ones I did with a 1/16 inch drill bit. I tapped my head under the rocker shaft so I could easily remove it and go bigger or smaller if I wanted to. If I remember right Edelbrock heads were easier to tap but just go slow and easy. A broken tap would not be done. I don’t offer this because by time I buy the set screws how much could you really charge to drill two holes and tap two holes. I’m almost positive I’m not running any but my heads were tapped just in case. I run a tight tolerance on my Harland Sharp rockers.
Up top so I sent him pictures and told him how to fix it. I bought a pack of probably 20 from a eBay seller but lots of places would probably stock 1/4-20 brass set screws. To ease drilling I would double nut them so I could hold them in a Vice and drill them on my drill press. I drilled the ones I did with a 1/16 inch drill bit. I tapped my head under the rocker shaft so I could easily remove it and go bigger or smaller if I wanted to. If I remember right Edelbrock heads were easier to tap but just go slow and easy. A broken tap would not be done. I don’t offer this because by time I buy the set screws how much could you really charge to drill two holes and tap two holes. I’m almost positive I’m not running any but my heads were tapped just in case. I run a tight tolerance on my Harland Sharp rockers.
NoCar340
The Original Partstitute
The next time you need to drill a set screw, here's a hot tip I learned while reading up on Holley tuning over on YellowBullet:
Put the drill bit in a pin vise, put that in your bench vise, and put the set screw in the drill. It's like magic, I tell ya. It went so well, I ended up doing a couple dozen different sizes of set screws for the various orifices on my carb. I now have a useful selection whilst tuning, rather than making (or, God forbid, buying) new ones every time I want to try something different.
Put the drill bit in a pin vise, put that in your bench vise, and put the set screw in the drill. It's like magic, I tell ya. It went so well, I ended up doing a couple dozen different sizes of set screws for the various orifices on my carb. I now have a useful selection whilst tuning, rather than making (or, God forbid, buying) new ones every time I want to try something different.
That is a pretty slick tip. Thanks for sharing.
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