Looks like someone is stepping up
Their game.
Their game.
Speedmaster rockers
- Thread starter pittsburghracer
- Start date
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gzig5
Well-Known Member
Can't find the small block version but Jeg's shows the big block Mopar for $320. If the durability and quality are there, seems like a hell of a deal.
I have been disappointed in the Ratio variation in the cheap rockers as
well a the quality. Variation in the ratio from rocker to rocker is the "Kiss
of Death" in our Stock and Superstock cars.
well a the quality. Variation in the ratio from rocker to rocker is the "Kiss
of Death" in our Stock and Superstock cars.
You posted them up, I figured you joined the Speedmaster sales team.
You want us to try them ? and you're not. lol
I like using a bushed rocker myself.
I have not heard of SNA Rockers?
gzig5
Well-Known Member
I'm thinking he fat-fingered DNA rockers, which is the marketing name Speedmaster gave them.
I really want to try these out... especially since all of their SS rockers seem to be out of stock still... for months. And I am too cheap to pay a million bucks for rockers... Would I need different push rods? Plus, apparently, my rocker shafts have been on incorrectly for the past million years...
@70aarcuda how do they look? Have you tried them yet?
I have about 70k+ miles on my "2nd hand" Harland Sharp rockers.
You would need to set them up on the car to know for sure the length is correct.
The adjuster positioning is fairly critical.
Let me know if you need help measuring as I am in Vegas a couple days
a week and would be happy to lend a hand with the measurement.
All I’m doing is showing guys what is out there and available. The good Lord gave us all a brain to make the decisions we need to make. 50 years ago everything I bought was used that I bought and within my budget. My budget is somewhat bigger now.
@pittsburghracer I am glad you show everyone whats available. I currently have a larger budget to work with but I am cheap as ****, so I still live within my "I'm poor mentality." I almost bought these last night, but I am going to wait until black friday to purchase them. Unless the SS ones come back it in stock before then.
I’ve just seen do much damage during my life from cheap rockers and cheap connecting rods. I (we) warned people years ago about using the cheap 440source I beam connecting rods and guys B-itched about them breaking even after admitting they heard the warnings. Proform (now speedmaster) rockers have also destroyed their share of engines. Some places you can get away with being “thrifty” and some you can’t. With that being said these rockers do look much better.
Absolutely right!!
I have seen guys stamp the number on the rod and
have it stress crack and break from that spot in 10 passes
or less.
Forget about the rockers = On my street 10 sec. valiant
with just 140 Lbs on the seat they broke a 1/2 Dozen @ 1000 Ft mark (5500 RPM)
Pins and rollers f flying everywhere and two adjusters flying off like a rocket!!!!
I like Brandon BUT He would not Warranty them = He said "John they are 6 Months old! Yes they were but I order everything well in advance when building an engine NOT the week I build it and find out I can not get the parts for months!!
One of my friend bought a set of his heads some years back and spent a ton of money
porting and preparing them ONLY to have the Valve springs break thru the Headin the seat area when setting
them up (Never even got it built and running) and again with only 140 Lbs on the seat and
never even got a rocker on the spring to open the valve. I felt terrible because I had picked then
up at Brandon's place for him and was kind of in the middle. Brandon said he had a bad batch
come thru with the same problem and it would be 6 months before he could replace them with
another set. Plus my friend was out well over $1000.00 for prep work and porting.
I am sure these problems are the exception to the rule and he is a nice guy I have known
for a ling time ---- But I am DONE!!
If money is tight = I recommend the Edelbrock Heads.
I watched my friend "Bob Mazzolini" run in the 9's @ 130+
At MATS last weekend with a mild budget 432 (383 Stroker) in his Beautiful 68 Valiant
with these heads on it (The cheaper E version) and I would
guess it weighed 3400Lbs with him in it!!
This was @ 3200= FT. mean Adj Altitude with a Headwind!!
I have seen guys stamp the number on the rod and
have it stress crack and break from that spot in 10 passes
or less.
Forget about the rockers = On my street 10 sec. valiant
with just 140 Lbs on the seat they broke a 1/2 Dozen @ 1000 Ft mark (5500 RPM)
Pins and rollers f flying everywhere and two adjusters flying off like a rocket!!!!
I like Brandon BUT He would not Warranty them = He said "John they are 6 Months old! Yes they were but I order everything well in advance when building an engine NOT the week I build it and find out I can not get the parts for months!!
One of my friend bought a set of his heads some years back and spent a ton of money
porting and preparing them ONLY to have the Valve springs break thru the Headin the seat area when setting
them up (Never even got it built and running) and again with only 140 Lbs on the seat and
never even got a rocker on the spring to open the valve. I felt terrible because I had picked then
up at Brandon's place for him and was kind of in the middle. Brandon said he had a bad batch
come thru with the same problem and it would be 6 months before he could replace them with
another set. Plus my friend was out well over $1000.00 for prep work and porting.
I am sure these problems are the exception to the rule and he is a nice guy I have known
for a ling time ---- But I am DONE!!
If money is tight = I recommend the Edelbrock Heads.
I watched my friend "Bob Mazzolini" run in the 9's @ 130+
At MATS last weekend with a mild budget 432 (383 Stroker) in his Beautiful 68 Valiant
with these heads on it (The cheaper E version) and I would
guess it weighed 3400Lbs with him in it!!
This was @ 3200= FT. mean Adj Altitude with a Headwind!!
Last edited:
We build trailers........................I tell the guy that
are looking at them: You but the Best AND you Only
cry once!!!
I pride myself on building budget race cars but some
things are false economy.
I
are looking at them: You but the Best AND you Only
cry once!!!
I pride myself on building budget race cars but some
things are false economy.
I
I have two sets of rockers to go with my little 383 stroker small block. The set currently on the engine are W2 Norris stainless steel rollers. I also was given a set of MP aluminum W2 rockers with my spare 365 small block engine that I purchased last September. I though about putting the MPs on my 383 but they just look and feel so flimsy compared to the Norris rockers.
One problem that I was having towards the end of last season was issues with some adjusters getting loose on the Norris rockers causing some pushrod issues. Thankfully it never caused any serious problems but only because I got lucky and dodged some bullets. I racked my brain trying to figure out why these adjusters were working their way loose, and it was almost always the #1 and #6 intake rockers. I tried different adjusters and always made sure the lock nut was tight but after a few runs one or both would be loose again. Now I'm thinking it may be due to my pushrods being too short.
So my question is, does anyone have experience using the old Norris stainless rollers and the MP aluminum W2 rockers? The Norris rockers look bullet proof to me, and as I stated earlier the MP aluminum rockers appear flimsy and weak by comparison. Also, could short push rods cause the adjuster problem? I'm out of ideas.
One problem that I was having towards the end of last season was issues with some adjusters getting loose on the Norris rockers causing some pushrod issues. Thankfully it never caused any serious problems but only because I got lucky and dodged some bullets. I racked my brain trying to figure out why these adjusters were working their way loose, and it was almost always the #1 and #6 intake rockers. I tried different adjusters and always made sure the lock nut was tight but after a few runs one or both would be loose again. Now I'm thinking it may be due to my pushrods being too short.
So my question is, does anyone have experience using the old Norris stainless rollers and the MP aluminum W2 rockers? The Norris rockers look bullet proof to me, and as I stated earlier the MP aluminum rockers appear flimsy and weak by comparison. Also, could short push rods cause the adjuster problem? I'm out of ideas.
Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
Your pushrods are not strong enough. Any time you can’t keep the adjuster tight the first thing I look at is the pushrods. IMO they need to be at a minimum 7/16-3/8 single taper. 3/8-7/16 double taper would be even better.
Norris rockers have the same oil hole clocking that Chrysler uses. That means the adjuster needs to be 9/32 out (thats ~.287) plus .050 minus zero. You don’t have much room and to do it right the intake pushrods need to be .050-.060 longer than the exhaust pushrods because of the offset.
Every pushrod manufacturer in the country will tell you their 3/8 thick wall dong beater pushrod is more than good enough and they are all wrong.
I have Smith Brothers 3/8 pushrods with a cup at the rocker end. I'm far from a math wiz so I’m a little confused by your calculations but I clearly understand your .050 - .060 longer intake pushrods. Sounds like I’ll be making a call to Smith Brothers. I appreciate the information!
Can you put your calculations on the adjusters into layman’s terms? I’ve heard the starting point on adjusters is about 1 1/2 threads showing on the pushrod side prior to setting lash. Is that right?
Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
With lash you should have no more than 1 thread showing. Give me a bit and I will take a picture of how to measure adjuster protrusion.
Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
Yeah, they will tell you that 3/8 pushrod is enough. It’s not. I’ll see if I have some double taper pushrods out there and take a picture. I know I have some single taper stuff.
Thank you!
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