Naw, it's all good. He's paintin over where he ground um. lolPics in post #13 is a failure waiting to happen....
Naw, it's all good. He's paintin over where he ground um. lolPics in post #13 is a failure waiting to happen....
Not on a slant 6! lolI spoke to Mike at one point and was told you have to clearance the head for the pushrod if you use one of his kits. So if you've bolted the heads on, go ahead and order another set of head gaskets first.
Maybe. The first picture shows what they looked like before I did anything to them and at the third I was almost done, so I didn't really remove much.Pics in post #13 is a failure waiting to happen....
My sharpie mark washed off after I cleaned them up. I'm in trouble aren't I?Naw, it's all good. He's paintin over where he ground um. lol
I spoke to Mike at one point and was told you have to clearance the head for the pushrod if you use one of his kits. So if you've bolted the heads on, go ahead and order another set of head gaskets first.
No, I already had the heads bolted on when I talked to Mike and that is why the topic came up. I have no pushrod clearance problem with my E-heads and no B3 kit. Maybe it's different on every setup.I’m wondering if you might have this backwards. Pushrod clearance on my build was a problem before the b3 kit, but not after. I did not need to clearance the heads.
He told me the same thing - the larger the correction means there's better odds of having pushrod clearance issues on aftermarket heads that have tighter pushrod tunnels. If I remember correctly, he also said it's more of an issue with higher than stock rocker ratios. Nothing a touch with a burr won't fix though.No, I already had the heads bolted on when I talked to Mike and that is why the topic came up. I have no pushrod clearance problem with my E-heads and no B3 kit. Maybe it's different on every setup.